Finishing Bed Wood with oil: Does it last, Let's just see

[jeffahart]

I decided to Oil my bed wood. I know there are lots of post on this; but this post is different. This will be kind of a case study for Tung Oil. I never really saw anyone with a 10+ year old bed that was oil finished and how it fared. So here's a post with a, hopefully, searchable title to see the actual wear and tear and needed maintenance. I will attempt to keep this post updated periodically with pics, so perhaps others in the future will have better info for the "Oil or Not Oil" decision.

I you are in the process of oiling bed wood(especially something other than tung) you should post here of your application and some periodic pics of wear results. I was at the Brother truck show a couple weeks ago, lot's of examples of what varnish does!

Here's my process and materials.

Quick Note: I'm not a Tung Oil evangelist! It's what I choose, so I'm just going to give honest info on the end results... whether I have to eat crow or not! If my process turns to $hit in 5 years, you will see it here! You will see how it weathers and when it weathers. I've had good luck with this type of Oil though(there, that statement just solidified it, it going to *ell in a hand basket)

Materials:
Yellow pine bed wood kit.
Pure tung oil.
Turpentine.

Why I chose Tung Oil.
I think tung oil will give better protection for water then blo(boiled linseed oil) blo has additives for drying, but so does most tung sold as exterior use oil. I don't really pay attention, interior exterior, pure tung is pure tung.

Safety Note: Learn about drying oils and how to avoid starting a fire in your shop!

Here's what I did.
Sanded with a heavy hand using 200
Coat 1: 50/50 tung oil and turpentine. I mixed in a jar and applied with foam applicator. Rubbed down after about an hour.


Coat 2: Hit it lightly with 200. applied 75/25 oil/turpentine. rubbed down after about and hour.

Coat 3: Hit with 0000 steel wool. Used a condiment dispenser from walmart to squirt a bead of straight oil along the boards, spread with foam applicator. Rubbed down after a few hours with cotton cloth.

Coat 4 -8 same as above, except I only used steel wool on the spots that looked like they needed it. Last coat no steel wool and a very light wipe down.

But the bottom of the boards I did not rub down. Plus I baked the boards bottom side up in the driveway on a couple 100 degree+ days, after the 4th coat. So I slathered the bottom and sides then baked. It will dry with a nice layer.
When I got to coats 6-8 on the tops(when I was doing top only) I did not bake in driveway. Just cracked the front and rear garage doors and got a good convection going.

I also blotted the end grains heavily with the applicator each time. The ends ate up the oil pretty good cut and straight.

My last coat of tung oil was applied almost three weeks ago. I couple days before I installed the wood.

Tung Oil Dries sloooooow! But it will get hard... some day! Patience is a virtue with tung oil!

July 2016 3 weeks in

So here's the first progress report: The truck has been in the sun for three days straight. The bed wood is still slightly tacky, but that's OK, I laid it on pretty thick especially the last coat. I'm thinking if this weather keeps up I'll have it hardened in another couple weeks. It was under a tree for a bit over the weekend. The leaves and dust swept out fine, it's tacky not sticky; so everything does not stick to it like fly paper. Tacky not sticky, if that makes any sense.

I'll post again at any next major event worth logging!

[In The Ten Ring]

That looks great! I wish my truck still had a wood bed....

[davepl]

Someone trolled a wood bed being oiled post? Kinda wish I'd seen that, I can't imagine.

Is it still continuing to dry? I'm 5th generation paint/hardware store and I've never heard of Tung oil, though I've sold a lot of linseed oil in my lifetime. How long does it take to fully harden? I mean is it days, weeks, or sometime next year?

It hardens on exposure to air, but how long it takes I have no idea...

[Gromit]

That looks perfect!

Did you select each piece of wood yourself at the lumberyard and then fabricate the boards or was that a bed wood kit? If it is a kit which brand?

I think you did the right thing choosing the Tung oil.

Here is a cut-and-paste of the first paragraph of the wiki about oil polymerization as a refresher for others who might be interested:

*******************
A drying oil is an oil that hardens to a tough, solid film after a period of exposure to air. The oil hardens through a chemical reaction in which the components crosslink (and hence, polymerize) by the action of oxygen (not through the evaporation of water or other solvents). Drying oils are a key component of oil paint and some varnishes. Some commonly used drying oils include linseed oil, tung oil, poppy seed oil, perilla oil, and walnut oil. Their use has declined over the past several decades, as they have been replaced by alkyd resins and other binders.

Since oxidation is the key to curing in these oils, those that are susceptible to chemical drying are often unsuitable for cooking, and are also highly susceptible to becoming rancid through autoxidation, the process by which fatty foods develop off-flavors.[1] Rags, cloth, and paper saturated with drying oils may combust spontaneously (ignite) in a few hours as heat is released during the oxidation process

******************

[old51sedan]

I believe your truck bed looks fantastic. I'm well aware of tung oil as my grand parents used it all the time to refinish furniture. I need to do my bed in the future and am also thinking of using Pine. I know the beds, wood & strips both were painted from the factory, but the finish looks great. Did you paint the strips? It's hard to tell in the pictures. I'm anxious to see how it does over time. Thanks for taking the time to write this article and posting the picture.

[67 chevelle]

looks excellent , I think mar kay did an evaluation of many finishes , and reported on it on their site

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by 67 chevelle

looks excellent , I think mar kay did an evaluation of many finishes , and reported on it on their site

I did not see anything about oil on Mar-K so I posted this. I hope someone puts up a BLO bed too. We could compare and contrast in this thread.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by old51sedan

I believe your truck bed looks fantastic. I'm well aware of tung oil as my grand parents used it all the time to refinish furniture. I need to do my bed in the future and am also thinking of using Pine. I know the beds, wood & strips both were painted from the factory, but the finish looks great. Did you paint the strips? It's hard to tell in the pictures. I'm anxious to see how it does over time. Thanks for taking the time to write this article and posting the picture.

I painted the strips white(rustoleum rattle can), It really does look good with the silver zinc bolt heads. And, yes for sure, we can all watch how it progresses; and then people can see for real if it's something for them. My guess is it will start to get some heavy patina in about three years. But, my first time for using yellow pine on anything. But right now it looks good anyway!

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by Gromit

That looks perfect!

Did you select each piece of wood yourself at the lumberyard and then fabricate the boards or was that a bed wood kit? If it is a kit which brand?

I think you did the right thing choosing the Tung oil.

Here is a cut-and-paste of the first paragraph of the wiki about oil polymerization as a refresher for others who might be interested:

*******************
A drying oil is an oil that hardens to a tough, solid film after a period of exposure to air. The oil hardens through a chemical reaction in which the components crosslink (and hence, polymerize) by the action of oxygen (not through the evaporation of water or other solvents). Drying oils are a key component of oil paint and some varnishes. Some commonly used drying oils include linseed oil, tung oil, poppy seed oil, perilla oil, and walnut oil. Their use has declined over the past several decades, as they have been replaced by alkyd resins and other binders.

Since oxidation is the key to curing in these oils, those that are susceptible to chemical drying are often unsuitable for cooking, and are also highly susceptible to becoming rancid through autoxidation, the process by which fatty foods develop off-flavors.[1] Rags, cloth, and paper saturated with drying oils may combust spontaneously (ignite) in a few hours as heat is released during the oxidation process

******************

Yellow pine wood kit from Classic trucks(mid west) not Classic Industries (west coast). I was real surprised at how nice the wood is. It's B-Better, no knots, cupping or cracked ends. $250 plus shipping. Good price! Boards are dadoed but holes are not drilled.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by davepl

Someone trolled a wood bed being oiled post? Kinda wish I'd seen that, I can't imagine.

Is it still continuing to dry? I'm 5th generation paint/hardware store and I've never heard of Tung oil, though I've sold a lot of linseed oil in my lifetime. How long does it take to fully harden? I mean is it days, weeks, or sometime next year?

It hardens on exposure to air, but how long it takes I have no idea...

Yea, it's still got a slight tack to it. I will probably feel dry/cured in another week or two. But It may not fully cure clear to the bone till maybe end of summer. I used Hopes 100% Tung off Amazon. I had a half gallon and augmented with a couple more quarts off Amazon. I really just wanted to keep a natural wood look and keep it low main for the future. But, yea, I guess If I lived where it's humid it could take longer. But I factored that in, and my final coat was pretty thick!

[bMr]

I'm not a wood bed fan, usually skip over threads about them, and as such hadn't seen a wood bed in a white truck. Until today. Wow. That is gorgeous!

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by bMr

I'm not a wood bed fan, usually skip over threads about them, and as such hadn't seen a wood bed in a white truck. Until today. Wow. That is gorgeous!

Thats a second on that one. Nice thing about Tung Oil, Linseed Oil, Danish Oil they all can be reapplied directly over the old finish...see how it goes!

[Kyle@FTP]

Both beds look great! I love how the grain comes out in both.

I have used Lynn Seed Oil on a few period correct jobs that the customer said thats what they used back in the 50s. it looks great but I usually have to sand and re finish it every 2-3 years.

kyle

[special-K]

Any oil will leach out in time and need more coating. The thing is, it gets deeper the more you do and it will never scratch or peel. You just clean and re-apply. You can sand if you want to keep smooth or let it age with time without the rot. For a work truck a great oil is used motor oil thinned with kerosene. Ever seen oil soaked wood blocks in the shop or an old wood shop floor? That stuff couldn't absorb water if it wanted to.

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by special-K

For a work truck a great oil is used motor oil thinned with kerosene. Ever seen oil soaked wood blocks in the shop or an old wood shop floor? That stuff couldn't absorb water if it wanted to.

used motor oil has many purposes, Grandpa used to use it to keep the dust down in front of our house

[jeffahart]

Here's an update on the Tung Oil. As said I will post as I do anything to the wood. I put another coat of oil on the wood a week ago. The wood did not look like it needed any oil. But I set out to put on another coat so, I did so.

Took about 15 minutes! Two week ago in anticipation of the applying more oil, I got out the can of white rustoleum and touched up some scratches in the bed strips and wheel wells. I did not tape, just touched up with a foam applicator. The following weekend, last weekend I applied the oil. I squeezed oil onto the wood from a condiment container. Then used a green scotch brite pad to spread the oil. I used light pressure. Then after a few minutes I wiped the whole thing down with a cloth. Done!

What the bedwood has been through since install till this reapplication. I have done a couple projects. One major refurbish or a rental house with lots of demo rubble. I chickened out and put a piece of sacrificial plywood down for protection. But after I finished that project, I used the plywood. And after that the truck bed has been used with no protection. One more minor demo project, and I had two 40gal trees with bare root balls in the bed. Big muddy mess with boots grinding mud into the bedwood. It hosed out fine and I wiped it with a wet wash towel after the hose out to get the ground in mud out.

It rained yesterday here so I also included a rain pic of the wood.


Current Oiling and three months prior original oiling.


Condiment container and scotch brite, only 15 minutes.


beads up nice in rain.

[68is4me]

That looks really good. I was going to do oak and do all the fancy stain and clear. Now you have me rethinking my idea

[OrrieG]

[QUOTE=jeffahart;7757163]Here's an update on the Tung Oil. As said I will post as I do anything to the wood. I put another coat of oil on the wood a week ago. The wood did not look like it needed any oil. But I set out to put on another coat so, I did so.

Took about 15 minutes! Two week ago in anticipation of the applying more oil, I got out the can of white rustoleum and touched up some scratches in the bed strips and wheel wells. I did not tape, just touched up with a foam applicator. The following weekend, last weekend I applied the oil. I squeezed oil onto the wood from a condiment container. Then used a green scotch brite pad to spread the oil. I used light pressure. Then after a few minutes I wiped the whole thing down with a cloth. Done!

What the bedwood has been through since install till this reapplication. I have done a couple projects. One major refurbish or a rental house with lots of demo rubble. I chickened out and put a piece of sacrificial plywood down for protection. But after I finished that project, I used the plywood. And after that the truck bed has been used with no protection. One more minor demo project, and I had two 40gal trees with bare root balls in the bed. Big muddy mess with boots grinding mud into the bedwood. It hosed out fine and I wiped it with a wet wash towel after the hose out to get the ground in mud out.

It rained yesterday here so I also included a rain pic of the wood.

Found this thread getting ready to finish my bed. this is five years after you installed it, how did it hold up? Thanks

[HenrytheWound]

I'd like to choose the "best" oil-based option for an AZ truck (1960 C10) that'll be kept outside. I want to use the truck bed and do not care for a glossy varnished look. I just cut new red oak planks and have new strips and hardware on the way and I'd like to get started on protecting the wood.

What POR-15 product are people referring to? I would like a 1 and done option for the underside of the bed wood if possible, thinking of some oil-based option for the top to keep the wood conditioned and resist rot. Sounds like the teak oil option has held up in AZ, what about the penofin option? I hesitate on the diesel and used oil option because I don't think I want to darken the wood that much and don't know if it'll continue to smell like gas and oil in the hot sun.

[JMC1965]

Any update on the oil? I’m planning my re-do of the bed for the summer

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by JMC1965

Any update on the oil? I’m planning my re-do of the bed for the summer

No sir. Sorry for the delayed response; and the wood looks the same right now. If you look at the Mar-k test they define only the painted wood as not failing. But if you look at mine now 1.5 years the finish is no where near failing. I believe my bed wood will still be structurally sound in twenty years. And I don't believe it's possible for it to fail as a finish... but only in failure to reapply as needed. And, no need to strip and sand and gag on dust to reapply, just slop on more! That said, the wood will still patina! My wood will not look preserved in twenty years, but it should still be structurally sound.


j

[sick472]

I have chosen a similar route to bed wood preservation. I painted the bottoms and sides with POR-15 like the Mar-K tests and gave two coats of an oil based "antique" stain to the tops. It merely has some gray to it that soaks into the coarser grains and gives it a little bit of an aged look. Form here, I hope that the occasional reapplication of some sort of oil will be all it takes. My truck will always be garaged when not being driven to work and such, and I bet this will last my lifetime with a little elbow grease every year or two. I have treated quite a few wood trailer beds with used motor oil and the owners of the trailers that I bowered them from were always appreciative and said that it helps especially when the trailers are in constant use and/or stored outside.

I think we are onto something here considering that we do not require that glossy show quality bed wood.

[jeffahart]

If you can. Post pics and the products you used, and periodically update the progress of the products performance. I think it's valuable to out with the results so truckers down the road can see how other options fair in the real world. We all see what varnish does.


j

[damnyankee36]

jeffahart,

I didn't see how long it took for the tung oil to fully dry after the first application. Did it take a longer or shorter time to dry on the additional applications?

Larry

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by damnyankee36

jeffahart,

I didn't see how long it took for the tung oil to fully dry after the first application. Did it take a longer or shorter time to dry on the additional applications?

Larry

The first coat was not full hardened, but dry enough. It took longer on the additional coats! I cut the first applications with turpentine. I think it took about a month for the oil to harden. You don't want to gob it on because you want it to dry, it's a drying oil. I am getting ready to put another application on. I will lightly sand this time and cut 3:1 oil to turpentine, I want to make sure the oil bleeds into all the cracks.


j