Jacking safely for flat tire change

[dmjlambert]

Hi.

Could somebody who has 15 inch wheels such as stock wheels, and who has a 67-72 truck at stock height with springs all around, and who has interest in being prepared for an event where you can't call for roadside assistance and still want to change your tire, please tell me some information about jacking?

What is the lowest the jack will go, for the stock jack or a suitable replacement, and what is the highest the jack will go?

Can you describe where to place the jack for proper jacking for flat tire change? I don't think there is room for a jack that is very tall.

I don't feel I have the right jack and don't feel I can jack the truck properly and safely. I have a 4 ton hydraulic bottle jack that goes from 7.5 to 13 inches and has a 1 inch round screw-adjustable pad on top. I do not even feel safe putting jack stands under the truck with this setup. I have shopped online and researched for hours on jacks and still don't know jack.

I would prefer to get a jack that I can store in the truck, and I would prefer to have one that does not require my hand or arm to be under the truck at all during jacking (like these hydraulic bottle jacks).

I don't have a lockable storage area in the truck, so I would prefer to not get some fancy floor jack that will just get stolen in the first week I have it. I have looked at the huge selection of scissor jacks on Amazon and eBay and I am overwhelmed and under-impressed, and not sure of the ton rating I should get if I end up with that sort of jack. Perhaps some sort of small floor jack. How much should I spend on a jack? I just don't know what to do, and how to stay safe.

[Mike C]

Look into a 2 wheel drive square body truck jack. They are similar to a 67-72 factory jack but have a lip off one side to hook underneath the control arm in front. Uses a folding handle to keep you several feet back.

[dennislbrooks]

A screw jack was stock for the 65-72 at least and go up past 87 at least. It plus handle and lug wrench were stored behind the seat on the passenger side. Pic is an 67-72 jack but is similar to past 87 or more.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-CHEVY-G...xUtAV3&vxp=mtr


https://www.google.com/search?q=stoc...QJ1HR067chM%3A

[dmjlambert]

Having never seen one except in pictures, I have no idea how tall it is, minimum and maximum height, and where it would fit to jack from a flat tire position with a 15 inch rim. I don't know where it fits to jack by the control arm.

[Gromit]

I can tell you that those small (two ton) floor jacks are not the answer unless they have three ton or preferably more capacity.

I have lifted the front or back half of my truck with a two ton floor jack and it is pretty scary because the thing is totally maxed out and flexing.

Lots of roads around here if you pull over far enough to keep from getting hit by traffic then the road shoulder is too soft to support the factory jack base..

So sorry that isn't much help but I'm watching your thread as well to see if anyone has something better.. I just carry the 1970 factory screw jack and it does have a pretty long folding handle.. I can recommend to keep it greased and in good shape 'case it will get a workout if you end up needing it.

Can you imagine if you just bought a half yard of sand or bunch of clay bricks and are carrying that in the bed when you get a flat.. Oye..

[dmjlambert]

So you jacked the whole front end or back end? It seems to me that a 2 ton jack would be fine for jacking any one wheel on the truck. The whole truck is 5000 lb. gross weight and 4000 lb. empty. So a 2 ton jack should be able to lift the entire truck if you could find an appropriate point to lift it from. I'm not suggesting to do that, just thinking lifting one corner with a 2 ton jack seems to have a wide margin of safety. But then what the heck do I know, after all I started this thread. :-)
I am contemplating this AC Delco jack:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...4620/N0768.oap
And a 4 foot long 2x10 or 2x12 pressure treated board to have on hand in case I am in the mud.

[Gromit]

What a co-ink-a-dink! That AC Delco is exactly the jack I have..

So to answer your questions - both front and back - it is worse at the front of course but even the back. My truck is 5300 lbs (long bed)..

Two US tons is 4000 pounds, right? The truck weighs 5,300.. Too much for the jack.

That jack was fine for my VW Jetta; but believe me, when I put that jack under any corner of my C-10 - the jacking effort alone tells me I had better keep my exit path clear and all arms and legs out of the way. and safety glasses on in case something hydraulic shoots out.

It just feels and looks like it could go at any moment; and each time it is jacked higher I'm holding my breath and jamming wood cribbing all over underneath with each quarter inch lift.. Not safe.

I've only used it a few times - actually at home I get out a 20 ton bottle jack and those work great.. (and only $30 or $40 from Harbor Freight or Home Depot).. Though with the bottle jack I still use a lot of wood cribbing - too much to carry for the highway emergencies, so I am still watching your thread to see what people have figured out.

[Mike C]

Here is a link to the jacking instructions for an 85-86 truck. Seems like you are WAY overthinking this, but it is good to be safe.

http://www.classicindustries.com/pro...ts/dc1202.html

[my67c20]

Get one of these, Pilot Q-HY-1500L 12 V Electric Car Jack. Make your own set of pads for front or back, and toss it under your seat. Remember when changing a tire your vehicle should only be off the ground long enough to get the old tire off, the new tire on, and the lugs snug. Be sure to block the opposite tire, and a damaged rim is cheaper than a life, so always find a safe and level spot.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by my67c20

Get one of these, Pilot Q-HY-1500L 12 V Electric Car Jack. Make your own set of pads for front or back, and toss it under your seat. Remember when changing a tire your vehicle should only be off the ground long enough to get the old tire off, the new tire on, and the lugs snug. Be sure to block the opposite tire, and a damaged rim is cheaper than a life, so always find a safe and level spot.

That is interesting. 2 ton electric scissor jack. I will think about that.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by my67c20

Get one of these, Pilot Q-HY-1500L 12 V Electric Car Jack. Make your own set of pads for front or back, and toss it under your seat. Remember when changing a tire your vehicle should only be off the ground long enough to get the old tire off, the new tire on, and the lugs snug. Be sure to block the opposite tire, and a damaged rim is cheaper than a life, so always find a safe and level spot.

Now that is neat! Don't we all wish we had patented/were making that!

I run a rental business and in winter, I have to go to my ski condo often once a day. The access road is pretty steep and can be very icy. I have seen the large 4x4 pickups unable to go up it and too fearful to back up and let the plow by. SMH. Last year I saw an SUV fully into the ditch, likely scraping up the whole side. As the rollback moved so I could get by I spoke with the driver. He thought tire chains were silly but then, I was soon driving past while he still waited for his SUV to be pulled out.

When I see someone having trouble on that hill, or I have the least trouble, or like last year, before I even try the hill, I jack up my car and put my chains onto the front. The screw jack cut the chain mounting time to 30 minutes but it was slow (and very cold) so I had to stop for breaks. I ended up using my dad's hydraulic floor jack (older model, much heavier than modern ones) and that cut time to 15 minutes flat for both front wheels.

An electric screw jack would be a nice thing but me being the sort I am, I'd still carry a manual screw jack, for when this one fails.

I am interested in getting one though. Thanks.

[dmjlambert]

I am not overthinking, I am simply lacking information and equipment. I do not have one of those jacks, and I do not have one of those trucks. The picture for the front end is so crappy I can't figure out where they are placing the jack, and on the back I do not have a place where there are 2 U-bolts. I have a 1969 truck with round springs for suspension.

So far, nobody has been able to answer a single question from the several in my first post on this thread. Except I guess some sort of an unknown height 20 ton bottle jack works for some folks if they don't mind reaching an arm or hand under the vehicle during jacking. I guess we are getting 20 ton jacks for a 2 ton total weight vehicle because the ton rating and minimum and maximum height of the original jack is unknown.

I have a 4 ton bottle jack that I do not feel is safe, and the truck has slipped off of it. I have seen 20 ton bottle jacks that are a little fatter but look similar to my 4 ton bottle jack. I do not like trying to place jack stands under the truck while it is held up by my jack. I do have very good large solid rubber chocks.

[my67c20]

As for where to jack it. On the front i would go under the spring pocket. If you were making a pad, then put a nub to sit in the hole. On the back i would go for the axle tube. Again make a pad that is 1/4 round curve to match. If the electric is not your cup of tea, go with a manual rv jack. They can be bought with a wrench, so you can be out from under the vehicle, or at least far enough back that if the vehicle were to fall, then you are in an area that would be less likely to crush you.

[BILT4ME]

When I recently went on a trip with my Studebaker, I pulled the mechanical bottle jack from my 1996 Toyota Land Cruiser (Is the same from a 2004 Toyota Tundra) because it would be short enough to slide under the rear axle, yet it goes high enough to lift the axle on my Land Cruiser the is wearing 33's.

I say this because the Studebaker has from the factory, a bumper jack that I would NEVER use again. My son's 1970 GMC K2500 will be wearing 33's soon, and he will need a jack to use with it.

The Toyota jack has a handle that has multiple sections in it and can be slid under the vehicle without you ever sticking your head under it. The handle has a hook that you can use to push the jack under as well as retrieve it when done.

Look up a bottle jack for Toyota Tundra from 19996 through 2006 and see what is there. The one I bought from a salvage yard is a three stage mechanical and will lift to 20"+

[A1971Blazer]

Most car bumpers now days wouldn't even work with one...... but does anyone remember these jacks....?....I wonder how many time a car rolled off one of these dangerous things? They always scared the living sh*t out of me..


For '70 Chevelle

[outfield]

The jack in this e-bay link has a U shaped top that can be placed under the lower A arm outer lip in the front of your truck, or the shock mount on the rear of your truck. It has a nice wide base for stability. This is a stock jack from a mid-70's Chevy pickup. This post does not show the handle that you would twist to make the jack go up and down, the handle is long enough so you are not under the truck when raising it. Search for any year Chevy pick-up jack from 1974 and up, and when you find one that looks like this with the collapsible handle, you have one that will work with your truck. it will collapse down enough to fit under your A-arm, or under your rear axle shock mount. You can go to wrecking yards and find these also. They originally mounted to the inner fender well in the engine compartment of these trucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-82-83-84-...5Xp4~H&vxp=mtr

[Mike C]

Thank you Outfield. I agree completely andtThat's what I said near the top of this thread. As well as offering up a chart showing how it worked.

Originally Posted by outfield

The jack in this e-bay link has a U shaped top that can be placed under the lower A arm outer lip in the front of your truck, or the shock mount on the rear of your truck. It has a nice wide base for stability. This is a stock jack from a mid-70's Chevy pickup. This post does not show the handle that you would twist to make the jack go up and down, the handle is long enough so you are not under the truck when raising it. Search for any year Chevy pick-up jack from 1974 and up, and when you find one that looks like this with the collapsible handle, you have one that will work with your truck. it will collapse down enough to fit under your A-arm, or under your rear axle shock mount. You can go to wrecking yards and find these also. They originally mounted to the inner fender well in the engine compartment of these trucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/81-82-83-84-...5Xp4~H&vxp=mtr

[outfield]

10/4 Mike - I was hoping a picture might help tell a better story...

Originally Posted by Mike C

Thank you Outfield. I agree completely andtThat's what I said near the top of this thread. As well as offering up a chart showing how it worked.

[dmjlambert]

I know I would appreciate it from anybody who can help. To help you understand where I am coming from: I am a newbie. I understand things about drum brakes, electrical, lighting, HEI, alternator and a little bit of drive train. I know nothing yet about suspension, I don't know what A-arm or control arm means or what it looks like or if they are one-in-the-same, I don't know if you guys are talking about putting the hook-type part of the 1974 on a certain part such as the A-arm I don't know about if we're talking about putting that hook on the rear shock mount, and putting all the weight of that particular corner of the truck on it. All I know regarding the suspension is: what I think is the front spring pocket, and the rear shock mount are both low enough to barely get my bottle jack under when the tire is fully inflated or over-inflated, and with 15 inch rims there is no way to come close to getting the jack under there.

Another thing I don't know is what "wearing 33's" means or how it applies to this situation. I have found that you see a funny picture of a woman in too-tight pants and her butt sticking out if you google "wearing 33's" to try to find out what it means.

I don't know what it means to "make a pad" such as one with a nub for the front or 1/4 round curve for the rear, although that sounds interesting. I'm not sure if we're talking about welding or cutting plate metal or machining or what. I have wrenches and screwdrivers and have not gotten into welding and machining yet. I wouldn't mind buying such pads if they were available to supplement a jack that was not designed to lift an Chevy properly out-of-the-box.

I know there are all types on this forum, including people who could probably mine their own iron and fabricate a Chevy from the ground up and understand every molecule, and there are newbies with a handful of tools, and everybody in between. I don't consider myself an idiot (although some are probably getting fed up with me), I am mechanically inclined and I try to contribute to threads where I can help. But I don't know the lingo, and would like to just know the proper way to do stuff that I feel I am not doing right. Picture help a lot, as I learn visually the best. I appreciate this discussion and this forum; I learn something every day.

[outfield]

Here is an e-bay post that has the instructions with a diagram of a slightly different jack then what I showed in the first link, it is hooking to the edge of the front lower control arm. With this style jack, even with a flat tire, you will be able to hook onto the lower control arm, which you have pictured in your post, and which is identified here.

Use this as a learning experience as to what the "control arm" is. At one time, we all did not know this term, and what this item was.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-1977-CH...Eun-fg&vxp=mtr

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by outfield

Here is an e-bay post that has the instructions with a diagram of a slightly different jack then what I showed in the first link, it is hooking to the edge of the front lower control arm. With this style jack, even with a flat tire, you will be able to hook onto the lower control arm, which you have pictured in your post, and which is identified here.

Use this as a learning experience as to what the "control arm" is. At one time, we all did not know this term, and what this item was.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-1977-CH...Eun-fg&vxp=mtr

Are we talking about this part I have outlined in blue is the control arm, and I'm going to hook onto the lip of it where I marked in red, if I get one of those square-body jacks that has the hook?

I see the LMC catalog labels the part Lower A-arm, so I suppose there are 2 names for it. I am understanding the higher U-shaped part of the jack cradles the rear axle. My hydraulic bottle jack has no such U-shaped part, so that is what makes jacking so hazardous if I have to jack at the axle and have not fabricated some sort of device to go between the jack and axle. I would rather just get the right thing. 1974+ Chevy truck jack with the hook and long folding handle, I'll have a look around for that.

[outfield]

Yes, we are talking about the part you outlined, and you would hook the jack onto the lip. The lower control arm can also be called the A arm (it is shaped like the letter "A")

The Bottle jacks have a small base, and do not have the upper U for support, so they can be very dangerous to use, especially on the soft off camber shoulder of most roads! The factory jacks have a much larger base for stability, and the type with the J shaped hook would guarantee you would be able to get "under" the control arm even with a flat tire.

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

Are we talking about this part I have outlined in blue is the control arm, and I'm going to hook onto the lip of it where I marked in red, if I get one of those square-body jacks that has the hook?

I see the LMC catalog labels the part Lower A-arm, so I suppose there are 2 names for it. I am understanding the higher U-shaped part of the jack cradles the rear axle. My hydraulic bottle jack has no such U-shaped part, so that is what makes jacking so hazardous if I have to jack at the axle and have not fabricated some sort of device to go between the jack and axle. I would rather just get the right thing. 1974+ Chevy truck jack with the hook and long folding handle, I'll have a look around for that.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

I know I would appreciate it from anybody who can help. To help you understand where I am coming from: I am a newbie.................. I appreciate this discussion and this forum; I learn something every day.

You can get plenty of help here....but I suggest you do a lot more reading and searching to help you better understand....that will in turn, enable you to ask more informed questions.
All of us started somewhere.....no one started out as an expert....don't sell yourself short......the biggest asset you have is your willingness to "listen and learn"......

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

You can get plenty of help here....but I suggest you do a lot more reading and searching to help you better understand....that will in turn, enable you to ask more informed questions.
All of us started somewhere.....no one started out as an expert....don't sell yourself short......the biggest asset you have is your willingness to "listen and learn"......

Thanks very much for your teaching and patience. Some of this stuff I have a pretty good grasp of, such as electrical. Some other stuff, not a clue, but getting a clue.

Originally Posted by Mike C

Thank you Outfield. I agree completely andtThat's what I said near the top of this thread. As well as offering up a chart showing how it worked.

Thanks, I think I am understanding better. In that 85-86 instructions picture I just can't make any sense out of that line drawing for the front jacking.

[my67c20]

What i meant by a nub, is something to sit in the hole below the spring cup on hte front end. If you don't have welding tools, try to make something out of wood, and see if a local fabricator can make it out of steel. Same goes for the axle saddle.

First thing is try to find a jack that you are comfortable with. Of course easier said then done, cause one never knows where a tire is going to fail. Personally, i do not carry a jack unless i go on a long trip. I know enough people around my area that if a tire fails, i am going to call for help.

If you call roadside assistance they are going to show with a hydraulic floor jack. Best bet, and cheapest option is the hydraulic floor jack. Unfortunately the cheap ones, by the time you use it they never work, or the lugnuts are so damn tight you can't loosen them anyways. Best option for occasional use, anything mechanical, like a scissors jack.