If you like puzzles. . .

[CapnCrunch]

Hello everyone!

I'm a newbie to the thread, but have been on the site for information before. I'm always amazed with how helpful everyone can be in this community.

So, now that my mechanical knowledge has met its match on my 69 C10, I'm coming to you in humility.

I'm a child of fuel injection, born in 1991 and learning auto repair in 2010. I was a Chevy tech, but you can imagine we didn't do too much service on carbureted trucks.

I wanted a project and a steal of a deal for my 69 longbed came along. I bought the truck running, sort of, and quickly had to repair some wonky and sloppy work here and there.

After a brand new points ignition from the dizzy all the way to the plugs, a new gas tank and new filter she was running great for ~1 month.

Oddly though, with the timing mark reading something like 50* BTDC. Made no sense, but I didn't question too much.

And then one day. . .

She started sputtering, choking, and died on the way home from work in front of McDonalds. Did the basic carb checks and after an hour called AAA and had her hauled home.

It's a 350, stock as can be. 4bbl Rochester rebuilt in march of this year by UREMCO.

Now I figured with that rusty gas tank and rusty filter there stood a chance that the carb had developed a fault in the six months since its rebuild. So I got the kit, took it all apart and followed the setup instructions to the letter.

Then I went in and replaced the timing chain, making sure cam and crank were all lined up and happy with #1 at TDC on compression.

And made sure my coil and dizzy were still doing their jobs.

And after all that, she starts with the throttle to the floor, runs for 1 second, sputters, dies, and shoots gas out of the vent on the top of the carb. Along with a puking of mist and smoke out of the secondary throttle plates.

I am out of ideas.

Anyone have one?

[geezer#99]

So when you lined up the dots with the cam gear at 6 and the crank gear at 12, did you know that's not #1 tdc compression. It's #1 tdc exhaust.. To get to #1 tdc compression you rotate the crank once which puts the cam gear dot at 12 and the crank gear at 12.
So with that said you're likely firing 180 degrees off.
Easiest to just point the rotor at #1, lift the dizzy and rotate the rotor around to point at #6. Advance it a little and it should fire right up.

And why haven't you switched to an hei yet?

[CapnCrunch]

I'll get right to that tomorrow. I had the feeling something obvious was missing. Thank you!

As for HEI, I've heard it's not the end all be all

https://www.google.com/amp/www.hotro...ndroid-verizon

[truckster]

I second the timing. And the HEI. It's one of the cheapest and best upgrades you can make to your truck.

[Gromit]

In my opinion, points are okay; they have their advantages.. but I know I'm in the minority to say the least with that opinion.

So long as you already have the points system you can aim the rotor and #1 position on the distributor at #2 cylinder (instead of #1 used with the HEI) as shown in the attached image and you should find the hold down and cap fasteners and advance can in a slightly easier position for access and clearance.

[davepl]

Points might survive a thermonuclear attack's electromagnetic pulse.

Are there any -other- advantages? :-)

[LongBox]

You can fix them yourself at the side of the road.

[HO455]

HEI's are a pain to recurve for performance. They were designed to be on a smog motor and have restricted timing curves. Plus a set of points never left me stranded on the side of the road. I fully plan on pulling the HEI in my Burban and going back to a points distributor. I've got a nice cast iron core under the bench waiting. Just a few hundred things to fix first to do first. Oops! I think the tread is derailing. How did your check of the timing go? Regardless of that we disagree on what works best, we all want you back on the road.