static drop vs C-Notch

[moregrip]

In general at what static drop point do you need a C-Notch? Are there some ROT (rules of thumb) out there?

Starting with a 4/6 and then maybe 5/7 and 6/8; thank you

[UKNOWME]

Originally Posted by moregrip

In general at what static drop point do you need a C-Notch? Are there some ROT (rules of thumb) out there?

Starting with a 4/6 and then maybe 5/7 and 6/8; thank you

I believe this will become an opinionated question so my opinion is 6" in the rear or greater. It kind of depends on the way you drive also.

[Noxin]

with my 6" rear flip im about 2" from axle to frame. C notch is probably needed at this point but mine is not a daily driver so less cutting the better.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by UKNOWME

I believe this will become an opinionated question so my opinion is 6" in the rear or greater. It kind of depends on the way you drive also.

so maybe a slight can of worms lol, my starting point is going to be the Belltech 4/6 and then I'm probably heading to a 5/7 or 5.5/7 from there.

[UKNOWME]

Just notch it and get it over with.

[evan]

Is there a preferred c-notch and flip kit? I was thinking of just going with the Belltech since they seem pretty reputable.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...mc/model/c1500

[bbbc10]

go with the belltech had it on mine an that is the best notch for c10s that is bolt in

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

go with the belltech had it on mine an that is the best notch for c10s that is bolt in

thanks, my Belltech 4/6 drop came with the C notches.......I should probably just use those! maybe I'm overthinking the whole c notch thing.

[bbbc10]

if u don't plan on hauling anything or towing than u can go 6" anything over that ur gonna need a notch

[SkinnyG]

I have a flip on heavy leafs, I'm not sure the drop, but the tops of the tires are higher than the tops of the fender arch.

I also notched the frame at the time.

I find that when the truck is heavily loaded (I've mistakenly had 1700lbs of sand in the back), the bed floor hits the pumpkin before the axle tubes would have hit the frame.

If I were to do it again, I would not have notched my frame.

On the other hand, a notch might be worthwhile when hitting a bump mid-corner, as the one wheel will go up a lot higher in the instance, and a notch might be beneficial.

[FullOutPwr]

flip kit and sagging springs and I'm on bump stops.

[JWall]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I find that when the truck is heavily loaded (I've mistakenly had 1700lbs of sand in the back), the bed floor hits the pumpkin before the axle tubes would have hit the frame.
.

I believe that. When I bagged my truck I actually welded in a plate with a threaded hole for an adjustable bump stop into my notch to make the notch smaller.
The rearend would've hit the bed floor before the axles bottomed out in the notch.

I think you could probably get away without a notch but I've never ran one without it. You could always add it after a test drive if needed.

Here is the added plate I mentioned...

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by JWall

I believe that. When I bagged my truck I actually welded in a plate with a threaded hole for an adjustable bump stop into my notch to make the notch smaller.
The rearend would've hit the bed floor before the axles bottomed out in the notch.

I think you could probably get away without a notch but I've never ran one without it. You could always add it after a test drive if needed.

Here is the added plate I mentioned...

Attachment 1610360

good info, thank you!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by JWall

I believe that. When I bagged my truck I actually welded in a plate with a threaded hole for an adjustable bump stop into my notch to make the notch smaller.
The rearend would've hit the bed floor before the axles bottomed out in the notch.

I think you could probably get away without a notch but I've never ran one without it. You could always add it after a test drive if needed.

Agreed. If you utilize 'all' of the c-notch, the differential can/does hit the bed floor bracing.

For optimum driving experience, keep the drop mild or plan to alter stuff beyond a 4/6 drop. The constant pounding of the differential against the floor or front tires buzzing the wells is annoying (it's common to start buzzing there w/tires over a certain height).

The difference of the drop on my old 74 (somewhere in the neighborhood of 5/7 - 6/8 static) vs my dually (it can plant the frame rails) is night & day because I planned to do the necessary mods to allow no contact @ the lower driving heights. Driving around LOW (>5/7 drops) w/no interference really makes a difference.

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Agreed. If you utilize 'all' of the c-notch, the differential can/does hit the bed floor bracing.

For optimum driving experience, keep the drop mild or plan to alter stuff beyond a 4/6 drop. The constant pounding of the differential against the floor or front tires buzzing the wells is annoying (it's common to start buzzing there w/tires over a certain height).

The difference of the drop on my old 74 (somewhere in the neighborhood of 5/7 - 6/8 static) vs my dually (it can plant the frame rails) is night & day because I planned to do the necessary mods to allow no contact @ the lower driving heights. Driving around LOW (>5/7 drops) w/no interference really makes a difference.

copy all, is a standard C-notch (non raised frame rail) enough for a 5/7 and/or 6/8 static drop truck bed not-withstanding, obviously in general terms (not gospel)

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by moregrip

copy all, is a standard C-notch (non raised frame rail) enough for a 5/7 and/or 6/8 static drop truck bed not-withstanding, obviously in general terms (not gospel)

Read the link for additional info. They get the job done but ultimately are a compromise....

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457037

[SkinnyG]

The original bump stops? You probably should remove those.

[Tom]

There are hundreds if not thousands of c-notched 1tons pulling max trailor ratings around for years with no issues. There are tens of thousands of 1/2tons with notches and full loads constantly. Honestly, how many of you have met someone who had a c-notch fail? You don't think this weak c-notch might not be a giant, glaring bright red light of liability doom in lawyers eyes if it were the case? To the point they wouldn't allow the company to market them....

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tom

There are hundreds if not thousands of c-notched 1tons pulling max trailor ratings around for years with no issues. There are tens of thousands of 1/2tons with notches and full loads constantly. Honestly, how many of you have met someone who had a c-notch fail? You don't think this weak c-notch might not be a giant, glaring bright red light of liability doom in lawyers eyes if it were the case? To the point they wouldn't allow the company to market them....

The info doesn't say bolt-in c-notches will fail but that doesn't make the information calculated any less true. I would bet a lot more people would think twice if they knew exactly how much the bolt-in notch they planned to use was compromising the frames strength.... especially when the differential will likely impact w/the bed floor before the entire depth of the notch is utilized.

I personally have never known someone that had an issue or failure. But when I searched for info on it (after Lakeroadster did the number crunching analysis for me based on my set-up & materials), I found 3 instances of frames that bent @ the notched area via the www & all were 88-98 ext cabs.

[lilpoindexter]

I flipped my 1978 short step rear axle...but i didnt have the heart to cut the frame. I cut the bump stops off and put the little mushroom bumpstops from energy suspension right on my frame rails. I haven't looked in a while but there was 2 or 3 inches between the axle tube and frame rail. One of the mushrooms was split after several years of use...so i know the tube contacted the axle at some point. My truck is a half ton, and i fill it with 400 or 500 pounds of junk maybe 4 or 5 times a year.