Frame tower location.

[michael bustamante]

1967 c10. 1977 small block towers. Do these look like theyre in the right location or should i move them?
Using POL adjustable mounts.

[michael bustamante]

Location pics

[sprint_9]

It looks like you have the long version, there are two different versions of this bracket. Easiest way to tell them apart is to measure on the backside of the bracket, short is about 10 inches, long is about 12.

This guide is in the faq section and looks to focus on the long version. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=128765

For comparison here is a pic of my short brackets, short brackets are more of a direct bolt in if you have a choice between the two.

[Willie Makeit]

when it comes to the LS platforms, is there an advantage to using the '73-'87 mount brackets versus the '67-'72 mount brackets?

[michael bustamante]

Ugh. Nothings ever easy. Ok what year should i look for for the short brackets

[sprint_9]

If you want to hunt down short ones I think anywhere from 73 - 87, but look for a C20. The C20 part is key from what I have gathered. There isn't alot of information on this subject, I had tried to research this about a year ago. I went through my local yard and was trying to come up with a pattern, they only had one C20 so I could never really confirm anything, that one C20 is where mine came from.

As far as any advantage to these mounts, they are just a better mount all around compared to the stock 67-72 mounts.

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

As far as any advantage to these mounts, they are just a better mount all around compared to the stock 67-72 mounts.

how are they better? i am using stock towers, stock motor mounts and DD sliders on a supercharged 5.3 and have had no issues.

honestly curious.

[crazy longhorn]

Might I add just a bit? On your 67, you will need to trim the top edge of the frame rails....look at the pic on the LS swap below your pic. GM trimmed the rails 68 or 69, to make clearance for the BB engines. My 69 was factory, as the next pic down shows. And yes the 3/4 ton 2wd stands are what you want, to make the fit. They are not a direct bolt in (top 2), & drill the rest....Longhorn

[michael bustamante]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

Might I add just a bit? On your 67, you will need to trim the top edge of the frame rails....look at the pic on the LS swap below your pic. GM trimmed the rails 68 or 69, to make clearance for the BB engines. My 69 was factory, as the next pic down shows. And yes the 3/4 ton 2wd stands are what you want, to make the fit. They are not a direct bolt in (top 2), & drill the rest....Longhorn

yeah i saw i was going to have to trim the top rails regardless. but i guess i need the shorter 3/4 ton 2wd frame rails?

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

yeah i saw i was going to have to trim the top rails regardless. but i guess i need the shorter 3/4 ton 2wd frame rails?

You might talk with Captain fab , on the board....he has played with the 73-up trucks/parts & may be able to "hook you up". I had the set that you needed, but pretty sure they went out on the last scrap load (cant keep it all, in my space). I will look tommorro.....if I still have them (77 3/4 ton), they are yours for the shipping cost. NOT A sale, just a helping hand Mods please do not delete this post.....Longhorn

[sprint_9]

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit

how are they better? i am using stock towers, stock motor mounts and DD sliders on a supercharged 5.3 and have had no issues.

honestly curious.

They are a wrap around design, the rubber mount is captured completely and then through bolted.

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

They are a wrap around design, the rubber mount is captured completely and then through bolted.

I know what they are and how they work, but still have no clue as to why these are better than the original design.

I guess what I'm saying is if a guy has original towers and original motor mounts all he needs to purchase is DD slider mounts (or comparable). This route requires new towers, new motor mounts and still requires some type of adapter to be purchased in order to bolt to an LS.

So again, wheres the advantage?

[sprint_9]

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit

I know what they are and how they work, but still have no clue as to why these are better than the original design.

I guess what I'm saying is if a guy has original towers and original motor mounts all he needs to purchase is DD slider mounts (or comparable). This route requires new towers, new motor mounts and still requires some type of adapter to be purchased in order to bolt to an LS.

So again, wheres the advantage?

The advantage is in having a stronger safer mount.

The fact section link I posted above looked to make the long ones work, the ones you have might still be an option. I checked my local yard and didnt come up with any, matter of fact there really wasn't many of that vintage truck period, sad to see them become few and far between around here.

[69gmcc10]

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit

I know what they are and how they work, but still have no clue as to why these are better than the original design.

I guess what I'm saying is if a guy has original towers and original motor mounts all he needs to purchase is DD slider mounts (or comparable). This route requires new towers, new motor mounts and still requires some type of adapter to be purchased in order to bolt to an LS.

So again, wheres the advantage?

There are lots of advantages to the 73 and later stands.

First, if the rubber isolator ruptures on the 67-72 mount there is no secondary restraint to keep it in place. the clam-shell encases the rubber in a steel housing so if the rubber fails it is still restrained by the housing.

There are more anchoring points on the 73 mounts creating a stronger front end and if installed correctly there is adjustability to be had that makes installing engines a little easier.

Companies like Dirty Dingo also make LS mounts like there DD series that have literally inches of fore and aft adjustability for very reasonable prices that you can purchase so you can place the engine exactly where you want making install that much easier.

Also, even though there is physically more to the mounts than 67-72 mount, they create more room around the frame rail for headers and exhaust manifold options.

I am sure there are more benefits but theses are the major benefits.

[michael bustamante]

Ahhhh boys and our toys! Lol
Thank you all gentleman. I'm going to u pullit now for the ten inch stand hunt.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by michael bustamante

Ahhhh boys and our toys! Lol
Thank you all gentleman. I'm going to u pullit now for the ten inch stand hunt.

Best of fun! I would opt for the ureathane "biskets". Some guys will complain, about the buzz....on the gen I , you could feel it.....not so much on the LS All you need to do is drill the rivets on the clamshell, install the new ureathanes in the vise. Then zip tie them down, & bolt in....Longhorn

[Dustytrix]

I got some like the first picture shows, 12 inch? I used bottom holes and added a 1x2 square tubing between frame and mount, drilled new holes. Works good with dirty dingo engine sliders.

[Dustytrix]

Yes they can be made, I have done that before, but never again will I skip on the engine plates. It is to much of a hassle to work on when the mounts wear out. Again yes easy to make but hell to work around for me anyway.