question about lowering the front

[tanman722001]

Hi guys, I have a 84 C10 that I want to lower some. Thinking about 3 inches in the front, My question is which why have you guys done this spring or spindles? Thanks in advance

[3drburb]

I think drop spindles 2.5 or 3 inches should be the first step in dropping it. Then if you want it a bit lower you can trim your springs if they are not wore out or get lowering springs to make up the difference.

[Nick_R_23]

Spindles are the best way as it leave all the stock geometry in place. However, some 3" spindles can interfere with smaller wheels. I personally prefer 2.5" spindles and cutting 1 full coil from stock springs (approximately 2") for a total of 4.5" drop, and matches the axle flip kits perfectly IMO.

[SkinnyG]

I have 3" spindles. Get 2.5" spindles.

And yeah - cut that coil too.

[bbbc10]

Get spindles over springs as spindles lower the body an springs changes geometry of suspension etc

[UKNOWME]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I have 3" spindles. Get 2.5" spindles.

And yeah - cut that coil too.

Curious why you suggest 2 1/2 over 3" spindles?

[lilpoindexter]

78C10 short step...I flipped the back, and put 2.5" spindles on the front, with 2" springs. My truck has a little rake to it, and the tires rub on the inner fenders occaisionally...if i did it again i would use the 2.5 spindles, and probably just cut a coil off my stock coils...

[SkinnyG]

As I understand it:

- You won't likely need to clearance the lower control arms to fit 15" rims (as I did).

- Less (or none) of the lower control arm hanging below the rim (not usually legal).

[UKNOWME]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

As I understand it:

- You won't likely need to clearance the lower control arms to fit 15" rims (as I did).

- Less (or none) of the lower control arm hanging below the rim (not usually legal).

Makes sense. He never said what size wheels so I wasn't thinking about that. Western chassis spindles claim to work with 15" steels and 3" drop. Can't speak on laws though.

[bbbc10]

the only spindle that works with stock rallys is the western chassis I had them on my 84 all other spindles u have to clearance the control arm

[Nick_R_23]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

the only spindle that works with stock rallys is the western chassis I had them on my 84 all other spindles u have to clearance the control arm

This is not true. I have Early Classic 2.5" spindles and they clear my stock rally wheels just fine.

[bbbc10]

Ok only 2 brand spindles will clear...

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Nick_R_23

This is not true. I have Early Classic 2.5" spindles and they clear my stock rally wheels just fine.

Yes your Early Classic 2.5" spindles clear a stock rally wheel. ALL 2.5" spindles will clear a rally wheel. The Western Chassis is the only 3" spindle that will clear 15x8 rally wheels.

Originally Posted by bbbc10

Dont cut the stock spring...it will ride like crap....when ppl cut springs they buy stock big block springs an cut them an the ride is great. An u can go low as 6" in rear with no notch as long as u dont haul or tow anything

Not correct at all. As mentioned above many of us have cut many sets of stock springs and enjoyed a much sportier ride than the stock mushy springs. Do not cut more than one coil and never get them to hot. Another option is the C20 spring. I'm told by an experienced mechanic that they ride even better than the cut C10 coil.

[tanman722001]

I want to run stock rally for know. I want a little rake don't like them sitting level. By cutting stock spring does it make it ride any different? and how low can the rear go without a c notch?

[bbbc10]

Dont cut the stock spring...it will ride like crap....when ppl cut springs they buy stock big block springs an cut them an the ride is great. An u can go low as 6" in rear with no notch as long as u dont haul or tow anything

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

Dont cut the stock spring...it will ride like crap....

Not trying to be argumentative but that's not true, either.

I did about a dozen trucks that way, back in the day (plus my Chevelle).

Cut two coils on the blue truck.

Cut one and a half coils on the red truck. It has been a daily driver for 30 years and a quarter million miles with no issues. It is the most comfortable vehicle I own.

K

[SkinnyG]

I don't think you are going to need a notch at all. The pumpkin hits the bed floor before the axle tubes hit the frame.

I notched mine when I shortened the frame and flipped the axle, and I think notching the frame is a waste of time. And I ~haul~ things in my truck - the tubes don't hit where the frame used to be.

(although, on a hard turn, it's possible the tube might touch as the chassis rolls - lower it first, and decide later).

I did need shorter shocks even despite shock extenders, as the shocks were bottoming when fully loaded. I used 4WD front shocks in the back with the extenders I fabricated.

[tanman722001]

ok Thanks guys. I'm just not sure how low to go. 3 front 4 rear or 4 front and 5 rear

[Moose62]

I cut coils when in high school, and it works but I thought it made the front bounce more as the top coil is no longer a larger flat surface...
I followed bbc10s advice and I used a 2.5" western chassis spindle and 2" coils and a belltech rear 6" flip. If you want that low, that's the setup to use. Keep in mind mine has very little travel, like 2" in the front and rear before I'm hitting rear frame and front stock bump stops and front inner fenders. No fat girls, or three wheelers in the bed though. It works for weekend strolls...
As far as 15" wheels, the 2.5" spindle only clears the inside rim edge by 1/8", I had to cut off the clipped on wheel balance weights.

[bbbc10]

Looks great!!!

[72freak]

As mentioned above, most drop spindles will have slight clearance issues with 15" wheels if you are going to run them. I ordered some early classic ones a few months ago and the tech department said they did not rub.....GUESS WHAT!

2.5 drop spindles and 1" cut coil is the way I went.

[Bobby Pootz]

Originally Posted by Moose62

I cut coils when in high school, and it works but I thought it made the front bounce more as the top coil is no longer a larger flat surface...
I followed bbc10s advice and I used a 2.5" western chassis spindle and 2" coils and a belltech rear 6" flip. If you want that low, that's the setup to use. Keep in mind mine has very little travel, like 2" in the front and rear before I'm hitting rear frame and front stock bump stops and front inner fenders. No fat girls, or three wheelers in the bed though. It works for weekend strolls...
As far as 15" wheels, the 2.5" spindle only clears the inside rim edge by 1/8", I had to cut off the clipped on wheel balance weights.

Thanks for posting Moose! What brand coils did you go with? Western Chassis? And did you notch the frame in the back? Cause 2" clearance in the rear is close for my uses.

Also, what sizes are your wheels? I like that stance! I haven't dropped my 84 yet so I'm still doing my research.

Rob

[Moose62]

I used western chassis coils. Belltech shocks. No shock extenders in the rear. Bought the notch. But didn't cut the frame yet. It does probably need to be done. But I haven't looked at the rear diff to bed clearance. The tires in that pic were 255/70/15 with 15x8 stock wheels. But now it has 20x9 all the way around with 255/45/20 and 295/40/20. Looks good. I wouldn't say it drives great as every good dip bottoms me out. Not sure if different shocks would be better or worse. But I did like the western chassis spindles. Just had to finish tapping out the dust cover bolt threads. And belltech has always been good on the flips. Avoid DJM.

My truck dropped about 4.5/6.5. And measures now 27" from ground to center of fenders. Tires were and are still 29" tall.

[RDrancher]

Originally Posted by Moose62

I used western chassis coils. Belltech shocks. No shock extenders in the rear. Bought the notch. But didn't cut the frame yet. It does probably need to be done. But I haven't looked at the rear diff to bed clearance. The tires in that pic were 255/70/15 with 15x8 stock wheels. But now it has 20x9 all the way around with 255/45/20 and 295/40/20. Looks good. I wouldn't say it drives great as every good dip bottoms me out. Not sure if different shocks would be better or worse. But I did like the western chassis spindles. Just had to finish tapping out the dust cover bolt threads. And belltech has always been good on the flips. Avoid DJM.

My truck dropped about 4.5/6.5. And measures now 27" from ground to center of fenders. Tires were and are still 29" tall.

Are you bottoming out the front or rear? Just wondering if you removed the bump stops.

[Moose62]

I didn't remove front bump stops as they probably help me from hitting the inner tubs hard. Just minor rubbing on front inner tubs. Rear axle is hitting pancake bump stops on frame rails. Factory frame bump stops and brackets I removed. There's only about 2" of travel there, and my truck is a big 10 so I have what should be a stiffer 8 pack leaf springs... Doesn't change the drop as the rear end sits on top of the leafs. I still got 6.5" of drop out of it if I remember correct.
And side note I only have one 16 gal tank, and spare tire removed so not much weight on my rear suspension. Not scaring anyone from this drop but don't plan to put anything in the bed. Or get a air shock like a helper bag maybe.