Door alignment issues

[hunter1123]

I took my doors off my 1970 k10 about a year ago, to get the rust patches which never ended up happening, when I went to put them back on the other day, I couldn't get either one of them to line up properly in regards to the latches on the door and on the cab. The latch on the door is about a 1-1.5in low on both sides, which I cannot explain since nothing changed besides removing a body lift for the OEM mounting kit.. does anyone have any ideas???
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[sprint_9]

Did you try adjusting the hinges to get things to line back up.

[Boog]

First off did you unbolt the doors from the hinges or the hinges from the cowl panel? And are the front fenders still on it?

[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by Boog

First off did you unbolt the doors from the hinges or the hinges from the cowl panel? And are the front fenders still on it?

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[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

Did you try adjusting the hinges to get things to line back up.

It seems like they only adjust left to right and not up/down
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[hunter1123]

I unbolted the hinges from the doors and left the hinges attached to the cab,they were never removed and yes the fender are still attached
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[72_swb]

They can be a bxxxx to line up. What I do is put the latch on the door (if you removed yours) put the hinges on the door. Then latch the door in the jamb. (Like your shutting the door) then tighten the hinges. Then you can make your small adjustments.

If any of this makes since.

[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by 72_swb

They can be a bxxxx to line up. What I do is put the latch on the door (if you removed yours) put the hinges on the door. Then latch the door in the jamb. (Like your shutting the door) then tighten the hinges. Then you can make your small adjustments.

If any of this makes since.

What do I do if the latches are still attached to cab? Just take them off and then complete the steps you provided?
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[72_swb]

Originally Posted by hunter1123

What do I do if the latches are still attached to cab? Just take them off and then complete the steps you provided?
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Leave the latch on the cab. Physically shut the door (latched) then start adjusting the hinge side of the door up and down and tighten. Sorry I'm not the best at explaining. It's just one way and works well for me.

[turp mcspray]

If the only thing that changed was the body mounts, the issue has to be there. Loosen all of the cab mount, and radiator support bolts, and see what happens. The cab has to be squashed out of shape.

[Boog]

You have to wonder what shape the floor, rockers and cab corners are in and if it allowed the door opening to move out of square when jacking it up to replace the body mounts. 1-1 1/2" door drop is off by a lot.
The door and hinge adjustment is maybe less than 3/8" up and down and in and out. It should be plenty of adjustability if door opening is still right.

[72_swb]

Plus pictures would be nice ��

[hunter1123]

Okay thanks everybody I'll try and upload some pictures this afternoon of the problem
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[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by hunter1123

Okay thanks everybody I'll try and upload some pictures this afternoon of the problem
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[turp mcspray]

If the door latches on the doors are now low, the "A" pillar is low. When the factory set the cab on the frame, they put two, square, 1/8" shims under each front mount. Are they still there?
Even a perfectly good unrusted cab, can be squashed out of shape, if the cab mounts are tightend down, without shims where they need to be.
Unless the door hinges moved, moving them will only create other problems. Loosen the cab bolts, and raise the front of the cab.
Like I said, if the only change was unbolting and rebolting the the cab mount bolts, , THAT is the area causing the problem.

[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

If the door latches on the doors are now low, the "A" pillar is low. When the factory set the cab on the frame, they put two, square, 1/8" shims under each front mount. Are they still there?
Even a perfectly good unrusted cab, can be squashed out of shape, if the cab mounts are tightend down, without shims where they need to be.
Unless the door hinges moved, moving them will only create other problems. Loosen the cab bolts, and raise the front of the cab.
Like I said, if the only change was unbolting and rebolting the the cab mount bolts, , THAT is the area causing the problem.

Okay thanks man I'll give it a try I do not believe that they are still under there,are the shims essentially just a thick washer?
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[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by hunter1123

Okay thanks man I'll give it a try I do not believe that they are still under there,are the shims essentially just a thick washer?
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Does look like this?
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[turp mcspray]

Originally Posted by hunter1123

Does look like this?
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Yes, those are them! And yes, they are needed. In the factory assembly manual , it shows a measurement from the top of the frame, to the top of cab cushion. It is .870. You can use big washers, or LMC has the square shims. With the fenders bolted to the cab, the cab and front clip become one solid piece. It is supported at 3 points on the frame, from front to back.
1 radiator support.
2 front cab mount.
3 rear cab mount.
Without the proper shims at the front cab mounts, there is a gap from the cab, to the cushion. When you tighten these bolts everything is pulled downward at the front cab mounts. The core support is supported, and the rear of the cab is supported, but the center of these 3 points is not. Either the frame gets pulled up, or the cab gets pulled down. The frame is stronger than the sheetmetal, so the cab is what gives. Since the doors are bolted to the front of the cab, they come down with it, and now they are low at the back.
Does this make sense?

[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

Yes, those are them! And yes, they are needed. In the factory assembly manual , it shows a measurement from the top of the frame, to the top of cab cushion. It is .870. You can use big washers, or LMC has the square shims. With the fenders bolted to the cab, the cab and front clip become one solid piece. It is supported at 3 points on the frame, from front to back.
1 radiator support.
2 front cab mount.
3 rear cab mount.
Without the proper shims at the front cab mounts, there is a gap from the cab, to the cushion. When you tighten these bolts everything is pulled downward at the front cab mounts. The core support is supported, and the rear of the cab is supported, but the center of these 3 points is not. Either the frame gets pulled up, or the cab gets pulled down. The frame is stronger than the sheetmetal, so the cab is what gives. Since the doors are bolted to the front of the cab, they come down with it, and now they are low at the back.
Does this make sense?

Yeah that makes perfect sense now, I guess when I had a small gap between the cab and the mount I shouldn't have just impacted it down lol I appreciate it man I was real confused about this problem, do the radiator core supports need shims as well?
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[turp mcspray]

Core support mounts will only need shims, if there is a gap under them. The fenders will want to bow out, if they are under pressure, from forcing the core support down.

[hunter1123]

Originally Posted by turp mcspray

Core support mounts will only need shims, if there is a gap under them. The fenders will want to bow out, if they are under pressure, from forcing the core support down.

Okay cool, thanks for the help man!
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