Steering linkage issue

[ebaby35]

Swapped in a 85' burb frontend and almost have the steering linkage installed except for the support piece that bolts to frame. Since my frame is from a 64 will this mount in a different place then the original?

[The Rocknrod]

"support piece that bolts to frame"
A couple of items come to mind would you have a picture available?

[64shortbox]

ebaby35,
When you say support piece - are you talking about the main saddle piece That bolts up with 3 or 4 bolts per side? If so, yes it bolts up in the same location as your 64 main saddle. You will need to hog out one mounting hole per side. If I remember correctly it takes 7/16 - 20 bolts but don't hold me to that, it's been several years since I did my Disc swap. I bolted my saddle in place with the holes that lined up, For me the easiest way to hog out the bolt holes in the frame was to use a drill bit for the size thread hole as if you were going to tap it, I ran the drill through the nut side of the saddle through the frame then ran a tap from the nut side through the frame if that makes sense.

[GMDad]

If your talking about the idler arm the mounting holes in the frame will need to be redrilled.

[64shortbox]

As GMDad said, if you are talking about the idler arm you must drill new mounting holes for it. It will lean rearward a lot more than your 65 idler arm but believe me that's the correct angle for a 73 - 87 Disc brake setup.

[ebaby35]

Yeah that's it. So I'm kinda learning as I this is my first build of any kind. How do you determine where the new holes go? Is there a way to tell if it's in the right spot?

[64shortbox]

Originally Posted by ebaby35

Yeah that's it. So I'm kinda learning as I this is my first build of any kind. How do you determine where the new holes go? Is there a way to tell if it's in the right spot?

I'm not saying this the correct way but this is what I did. With the truck on the ground & both tires facing straight forward I adjusted the passenger side tire rod end & center link match the drivers side. I "C" clamped the idler arm in place and turned the wheels lock to lock and checked for interference. I did this on the ground and again on jack stands with the suspension hanging free. When I felt everything looked & felt correct I kept the idler arm C clamped in place and used the idler arm holes as a guide to drill my holes in the frame.

For reference my truck is a 64 too. You see where the flex brake hose goes through the frame. That hole is an existing oblong hole that was punched there by the factory. That same hole is on the drivers side a perfect spot to run your flex brake hose and hopefully gives you a clearer picture as to how my idler arm is mounted. If you need actual measurements I can provide that too but as I said I don't know if this the best, or correct way to mount the idler arm but it worked for me and the truck aligned perfectly without any complications. When you grabbed your front suspension did you also get ALL the brake lines & proportioning valve? If so check out my hard brake lines . I used the original lines off the 73 donor truck. I did have to tweek them ever so slightly to get them to fit our application but not by much. I also had to make a mount for the proportioning valve. I did this by taking a short piece of coathanger and matching it from the angle of the proportioning valve to the frame (lower radiator support) of my 64 - BUT I have access to MIG, TIG and Arc Welders and lots of scrap stainless at my work. I also own several tubing benders and a double flaring tool kit but being the Cheap & Lazy SOB that I am I went with all original 1973 Master, Brake Lines & Proportioning Valve.

More PICS - the first picture is I believe the drivers side at the A arm looking out that oblong hole by the A arm is the hole I ran my brake flex hoses through. - The second PIC is of a cut flex brake hose through that same hole just to check fitment. The third & fourth pictures are just ore shots of the 73 brake lines. Looks like they were made for our trucks don't they? And that fifth picture? I even added a modified 73 C-10 large Disc Brake pedal along with a suspended gas pedal to complete the (fake) factory Disc Brake look.

[ebaby35]

Dude thanks for taking the time to explain all you did. On my next day off I'm gonna try what you did. I tend to stuff ass backwards. I'll be going to junkyard to see if I can get more steering parts. Your truck looks super clean, truck is a pile of parts right now.

[GMDad]

Make sure you put the new centre link in correctly as they can be installed upside down and don't ask me why I know... Really screws up the turning radiuses.

[ebaby35]

NOT sure if this positioned right I didn't drill the 2nd hole. Just doesn't seem like it can go in any other way. Am I wrong?

[Captainfab]

I always recommend installing the steering box first. When using the template with my steering box adapter plate, the steering box will be in the correct location. Then with the steering box bolted up and the pitman arm installed, position the draglink so that it is the same distance from both the bottom of the frame and the suspension crossmember on the passenger side as it is on the drivers side. Then that is where the idler arm must be. The draglink must be parallel to both the frame and the suspension crossmember.

[kaycee]

Does it matter if frame is on jack stands or should the tires be on and on the ground ? Everything is bolted down except idler allso what about the sway bar seems to me it would be beter to have the truck on the ground or at least jack stands under the lower a-arm's.