Ridetech streetgrip ??s

[pete57]

I got a '64 c10 im about to do a disk brake swap on and thought id go ahead and drop it while it was apart. i know the spindles in the kit are 2 1/2 drop and comes with 2in blocks for the rear, what drop are the coil springs or are they stock height? I know ridetech makes quality stuff but is this streetgrip kit the way to go or can i go with componets from somewhere like ECE and be just as good? Thanks..

[JohnJ@RideTech]

The StreetGrip kit equates to about a 4/6 drop. We utilize not only a drop spindle but also drop coil in the front as well as a drop coil in the rear.
The kit comes with a c-notch, sway bar, Delrin replacement bushings for your factory arms, all related hardware and a set of our single adjustable Fox shocks with their 1 million and one mile warranty. I will include a link below for you to check them out yourself. Feel free to give any feedback you would like or, if you have any questions, contact me directly. All of my contact information is listed below.
http://www.ridetech.com/products/sus...etgrip-system/

[pete57]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

The StreetGrip kit equates to about a 4/6 drop. We utilize not only a drop spindle but also drop coil in the front as well as a drop coil in the rear.
The kit comes with a c-notch, sway bar, Delrin replacement bushings for your factory arms, all related hardware and a set of our single adjustable Fox shocks with their 1 million and one mile warranty. I will include a link below for you to check them out yourself. Feel free to give any feedback you would like or, if you have any questions, contact me directly. All of my contact information is listed below.
http://www.ridetech.com/products/sus...etgrip-system/

Hi John, I talked with you about the kit at goodguys in nashville a couple of months ago, and you let me sit in the truck, best part of the day.
I was just wondering if i could sub some parts like spindles, blocks, panhard bar and use the ridetech springs and shocks and get about the same result and save some money which is the main goal. Thanks.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by pete57

Hi John, I talked with you about the kit at goodguys in nashville a couple of months ago, and you let me sit in the truck, best part of the day.
I was just wondering if i could sub some parts like spindles, blocks, panhard bar and use the ridetech springs and shocks and get about the same result and save some money which is the main goal. Thanks.

Good to hear from you! Glad you enjoyed the truck!
All of the components in the kit are available for purchase individually. Obviously the pieces are designed to function as a "system" so I cant guarantee that the results will be the same. We have never attempted to use some of our components with those made by another manufacturer.

How have things been going? Making any progress on your project?

[pete57]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

Good to hear from you! Glad you enjoyed the truck!
All of the components in the kit are available for purchase individually. Obviously the pieces are designed to function as a "system" so I cant guarantee that the results will be the same. We have never attempted to use some of our components with those made by another manufacturer.

How have things been going? Making any progress on your project?

Things are good. Got the 5.3 swap finished, power steering on. Running and driving great, now just need brakes and suspension. Are you going to be set up at any more shows like NSRA in Kentucky or Rod Run in Pigon Forge? Hopefully be driving it to those 2.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

I will be at NSRA! I don't know exactly what we will be bringing down to that show. I never know until they tell me what to drive and that may change 6 times between now and then.
We finally put overdrive and a quicker steering box in the blue and white truck. I haven't driven it since then, looking forward to seeing the changes it made. That truck was fun in its previous form, going to be nice not having to get gas every 2 hours!
What are you going to do brake wise? You already know my preference on suspension!

[pete57]

Keep looking at the ECE disk brake swap kit. Looks to be a pretty complete kit. That was another question I had was if I were to use the RideTech spindles what brake kit or parts would work well with them?

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Our spindles will work with OE style disc brake setups. They will not work with a drum brake.

[pete57]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

Our spindles will work with OE style disc brake setups. They will not work with a drum brake.

Thanks John. Hope to get to talk to ya again in Kentucky..

[smbrouss70]

I'm curious about the delrin bushings for the factory metal "screw-in" bushings on the early control arms... Or do you have to swap control arms from a 73+ to use the delrin?

[JohnJ@RideTech]

We include new cross shafts with the StreetGrip kits that way you can utilize the Delrin pieces. There is no need to re use your factory cross shafts or bushings.
I have attached a picture of the components below for you to check out.

[smbrouss70]

I get that, but I've never seen a setup that utilized pressed in bushings on a screw-in type control arm. If the purpose is to minimize deflection at the bushing, wouldn't the factory steel bushing do a better job of that?

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

We include new cross shafts with the StreetGrip kits that way you can utilize the Delrin pieces. There is no need to re use your factory cross shafts or bushings.
I have attached a picture of the components below for you to check out.
Attachment 1674374

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

I get that, but I've never seen a setup that utilized pressed in bushings on a screw-in type control arm. If the purpose is to minimize deflection at the bushing, wouldn't the factory steel bushing do a better job of that?

I believe you will need to use 73-87 a-arms (with "press-in" style bushings),... for the Ridetech kit on 63-72 trucks.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Our bushing kit comes with inner and outer steel sleeves to minimize deflection at the bushing. You can see those in the photo above.
You retain your factory stamped control arms but swap out cross shafts and bushings to utilize the benefits of Delrin. This will also minimize stiction and the squeaking associated with rubber or poly bushings. Delrin is also a self lubricating composite so there is no need to grease them on a regular basis.

[chevy_mike]

I have to agree with the question, how do you use press in bushings on front control arms that originally used the screw in style? All 60-72 use this and it wasn't until '73 GM changed to a press in. I can see the RideTech ones working for the '73+ but there isn't any "mounting surface" for the earlier arms to use press in bushings.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

The outer sleeve on the bushing will press into the control arm just as it would on an arm that is not threaded. The installation process is no different, it still is a metal to metal fit.
So there are benefits of going with a press in over a screw. Over time, as the threads work back and forth, your alignment would change even if it is just minimal. It was a poor design from the factory and GM realized it. That's why they changed the design in 73.
Our kit addresses the issues associated with the screw in design and eliminates the need for those components.

[chevy_mike]

Originally Posted by JohnJ@RideTech

The outer sleeve on the bushing will press into the control arm just as it would on an arm that is not threaded. The installation process is no different, it still is a metal to metal fit.
So there are benefits of going with a press in over a screw. Over time, as the threads work back and forth, your alignment would change even if it is just minimal. It was a poor design from the factory and GM realized it. That's why they changed the design in 73.
Our kit addresses the issues associated with the screw in design and eliminates the need for those components.

Actually I'll have to disagree with that. GM didn't think it was a poor design as 1 ton trucks used this design up to '91 (depending on body style). They are very heavy duty and if kept properly greased, they have almost no wear. Most wear was from neglect. The rubber bushings came about because of two primary reason, cost, as they were cheaper to make and assemble and comfort. Rubber bushings allow for deflection which made harshness and vibration less. Trucks were becoming more "plush" especially the 1/2 ton models. As the rubber aged, they deflect even more (to the point of rubber becoming missing) and alignment would change much more than the screw in bushing.

Since the screw in style arms only have one "ear" that the bushing rides in, I would question anyone just pressing in bushing into these arms as there is no inner ear like the later model arms have. I would think welding the sleeve in would be a requirement, not an option. Eventually these shells would start to walk in the opening under load, if not welded to the arm. Upper arms are not as critical as they don't see the same loading but lower arms take the brunt of the forces.

My .02 worth. Not looking to get into a pissing match but I do want to make sure people understand what they are getting into when modifying suspensions. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be done.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Actually I'll have to disagree with that. GM didn't think it was a poor design as 1 ton trucks used this design up to '91 (depending on body style). They are very heavy duty and if kept properly greased, they have almost no wear. Most wear was from neglect. The rubber bushings came about because of two primary reason, cost, as they were cheaper to make and assemble and comfort. Rubber bushings allow for deflection which made harshness and vibration less. Trucks were becoming more "plush" especially the 1/2 ton models. As the rubber aged, they deflect even more (to the point of rubber becoming missing) and alignment would change much more than the screw in bushing.

Since the screw in style arms only have one "ear" that the bushing rides in, I would question anyone just pressing in bushing into these arms as there is no inner ear like the later model arms have. I would think welding the sleeve in would be a requirement, not an option. Eventually these shells would start to walk in the opening under load, if not welded to the arm. Upper arms are not as critical as they don't see the same loading but lower arms take the brunt of the forces.

My .02 worth. Not looking to get into a pissing match but I do want to make sure people understand what they are getting into when modifying suspensions. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be done.

Well said.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

Actually I'll have to disagree with that. GM didn't think it was a poor design as 1 ton trucks used this design up to '91 (depending on body style). They are very heavy duty and if kept properly greased, they have almost no wear. Most wear was from neglect. The rubber bushings came about because of two primary reason, cost, as they were cheaper to make and assemble and comfort. Rubber bushings allow for deflection which made harshness and vibration less. Trucks were becoming more "plush" especially the 1/2 ton models. As the rubber aged, they deflect even more (to the point of rubber becoming missing) and alignment would change much more than the screw in bushing.

Since the screw in style arms only have one "ear" that the bushing rides in, I would question anyone just pressing in bushing into these arms as there is no inner ear like the later model arms have. I would think welding the sleeve in would be a requirement, not an option. Eventually these shells would start to walk in the opening under load, if not welded to the arm. Upper arms are not as critical as they don't see the same loading but lower arms take the brunt of the forces.

My .02 worth. Not looking to get into a pissing match but I do want to make sure people understand what they are getting into when modifying suspensions. Just because something can be done, doesn't mean it should be done.

No problem at all Mike, no offense taken. I appreciate your input.
The blue and white 72 C10 you see in our advertisements is one of several StreetGrip equipped vehicles that we utilize here at home base for dealer visits, transportation to car shows as well as R&D. That particular truck has been back and forth from Jasper Indiana to Dallas Texas and back twice this year alone and has actually been auto crossed multiple times. Before the kit was put into production we tried just about everything possible to see what it would take to cause premature wear or component failure before it was ever turned loose to our customers. The kit has been around for several years now and I have yet to see any bushing or sleeve failures outside of installation error.

[smbrouss70]

Thank you. What I wanted clarification on was if the bushing was designed to be pressed into the threaded section of the factory control arms.

I suggest that you update your instructions for "Part # 11339590 - 1963-1972 C10 Delrin Control Arm Bushings", as they CLEARLY show a 1973+ control arm in the picture where they are pressing in the bushing. This is what was confusing me, and I assume others as well. It makes it look like you will have to source a set of later model control arms to use this kit.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

I actually believe it may be a stock photo that we use as an installation visual aid. If I had to guess, its probably an A-body arm and that photo was probably taken before we developed the C10 kit. We used that photo to illustrate the importance of not collapsing the arm when installing the bushing.
We supply instructions for most of our components on the website so that potential customers can see what all is involved in installing our kits before they buy. Id be more than happy to provide a link to these instructions or email a PDF copy to anyone who may be interested.

[lolife99]

Another key statement in the instructions for 63-72 trucks:
DUE TO VARIATIONS IN THE THREADS OF THE CONTROL ARM, WE RECOMMEND TACK WELDING
THE BUSHING SHELLS TO THE CONTROL ARM.
http://www.ridetech.com/products/sus...etgrip-system/

[JohnJ@RideTech]

That is correct. While we do our best to manufacture components to the best tolerances possible, you may experience an application where the OE components have experienced abnormal wear. Unfortunately, this would mean that the bushing sleeve would need to be tacked into place or the arm replaced.
Keep in mind that we also have other kits available for these trucks. For instance, our Level 2 kit would provide you with new tubular upper and lower arms and the option to use coil overs or our Shockwaves.