Replacing brake light switch

[1SG.Rob]

Good morning, gents! This weekend I will be replacing the brake light switch in my '69 C10. This is the first time doing this and I am little more than a novice when it comes to electronics and wiring. Is there anything specific I should watch out for? Any tips or advice? This is my daily driver for work so I gotta get these lights fixed ASAP. Thanks!!

[randy500]

It’s a very difficult job because there is no room to work, the switch is above the steering column in a cavity of the brake pedal bracket. If you get frustrated just pull the steering column to get some working room.
Remove the switch first then the wiring from the switch.
Remove the lower nut on the switch, hopefully you can hold the lower nut with one hand and twist the upper part of the switch to remove the nut since there is not room for tools. Sometimes the nut is too tight to do it that way though.

The wire has a Clip on either side, I would make a wood wedge for each clip to disengage them both before pulling the connector off, releasing both clips at the same time can be difficult.

[1SG.Rob]

Originally Posted by randy500

It’s a very difficult job because there is no room to work, the switch is above the steering column in a cavity of the brake pedal bracket. If you get frustrated just pull the steering column to get some working room.
Remove the switch first then the wiring from the switch.
Remove the lower nut on the switch, hopefully you can hold the lower nut with one hand and twist the upper part of the switch to remove the nut since there is not room for tools. Sometimes the nut is too tight to do it that way though.

The wire has a Clip on either side, I would make a wood wedge for each clip to disengage them both before pulling the connector off, releasing both clips at the same time can be difficult.

Ouch, not the quick job I was hoping for. I've been meaning to replace the main dash wiring harness, might be best to just do them both at the same time and make a weekend of it. Thanks for the info!

[demian5]

If you have some long needle nose pliers, and some long 90 degree ones, that helps a lot. Get it adjusted right the first time.

[Andy4639]

I cut a piece of 2x2 off to fit between the brake pedal and the underside of the steering column to hold the brake pedal down. This takes the pressure off of the switch. The loosen the nut holding the switch. Pop the wire connector off the switch and screw it out. Nothing to it other than laying on your back under the dash.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Nothing to it other than laying on your back under the dash.

Way easier when you have an auto trans truck to lay across the floor.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by demian5

Way easier when you have an auto trans truck to lay across the floor.

At 57 years old nothing about laying in the floor board is easy!

[1SG.Rob]

Thanks for the advice, gents. It really helps me make my plan of attack.

[68c10airstream]

I'll throw this train of thought into the mix. If you possibly are going to an overdrive trans and/or cruise control in the future consider having the brake switch turn on/off a relay. Relays have an energized set of contacts and a de=energized set of contacts. The relay can then take the amps load of the circuit, remotely mounted (your choice of location) save wear and tear on the brake switch and now the brake switch is doing a double duty.

As an example; brake pedal pushed= 12volts + going to brake lights, Brake pedal released= the same 12volts+ that was going to the brake lights is now diverted to the lockup torque converter solenoid. If using cruise, you could tap into the correct side of the relay output as needed.

You can do this for less than 20 dollars.

[yuccales]

All great info. Remember to block your wheels and/or use your e-brake! All your twisting around, squirming, etc, under that dash, you don't want to pull that thing out of park, or knock it out of gear! Don't ask how I know.

[1SG.Rob]

Thanks for the information everyone. I was able to get it switched out on Saturday with relatively little trouble. Brake lights are back to fully operational!

[cgster]

Originally Posted by 1SG.Rob

Thanks for the information everyone. I was able to get it switched out on Saturday with relatively little trouble. Brake lights are back to fully operational!

Is there any adjustments you have to make when replacing the brake light switch?

[1SG.Rob]

Originally Posted by cgster

Is there any adjustments you have to make when replacing the brake light switch?

Yeah, you do have to adjust the screw on the switch a little bit to account for brake pedal travel. When I first installed the new switch, the lights were on no matter where the break pedal was. So you have to adjust it a bit so the lights go off when the pedal is not pushed down.

[68 P.O.S.]

I'm working on slowly rewiring my 72 and I've been avoiding this part cause I know it's a pain. Last time I did one was 15 years ago.

[phat69]

I too have tried to adjust mine but I gave because it's not road worthy but I'll fix that this weekend.

[68 P.O.S.]

I discovered another great way to remove a stuck switch. A hacksaw blade!

[iriereggaeman]

Thanks for the good tips here. I always look at the forum before attempting a fix I haven't done before. The discussion helped me quickly locate the switch, make a depth adjustment, and get my brake lights working again! All, in about 15 minutes.