What do you think of these fuel lines?

[In The Ten Ring]

Pic 1:

Stainless steel braided line with AN fittings. Looks like a 292 engine. I'd rather go around the front of the valve cover but this does look simple. What do you think?

Pic 2:

Looks like polyarmor tubing bent on driver's side with rubber hose on passenger side. Is this safe?

[In The Ten Ring]

Another shot of route #2.

[Grumpy old man]

The first picture looks like it was the only route that worked using that hokey filter set up ? the second picture looks like they felt the need to install a filter between the pump and carb ? GM built it with a solid steel line from the pump to the carb . if your getting rust to the carb you need to fix the problem in the tank not just toss another band aid into the mix , By adding a filter in between the pump and carb your just increasing the potential for leaks ? We're talking L6 here the thing will run on turpentine , Feel the need to add a filter do it under the cab .

[B. W.]

I like to run them around the front of the VC using hard line. Going over the top of the VC doesn't look as clean & it's one more thing to pull before you remove the VC. (not that you have to do it that often)

[jocko]

The first time you ever have to remove the vc, you’ll curse the day you chose option 1. That’s just a bad idea, no reason to do it. If you’re considering bending lines halfway like pic 2, there’s no reason to not go all the way like the factory. Connections go easier when you attach the pump hard line end and carb hard line end first, ie 2 separate lines at this point, then connect a metal filter in the middle. If you connect one, that is. GM didn’t include one, but they did in later years. It’s not a bad thing. Pic 1 would flop around under accel or braking. Pic 2 only seems about halfway done. With rubber lengths I’m always concerned with abrasion or burning them. Anyway, whatever you choose, I’d recommend not going over the valve cover.

[In The Ten Ring]

I agree pic one looks bad but I have seen at least one other member here do that, a guy with a lot of posts.

I asked was Option 2 safe, not one's opinion on it. *Quite often members here reply to questions like politicians on a talk show. They skip the question they were asked and use the reply time as an opportunity to launch into their campaign talking points.

I'll ask again, is option 2 safe? Is a rubber line on the passenger side at risk for fire? Would the rubber melt over there? Would a leak there cause a fire?

[hotsam]

jackos post stated..
"With rubber lengths I’m always concerned with abrasion or burning them. "

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by hotsam

jackos post stated..
"With rubber lengths I’m always concerned with abrasion or burning them. "

Good one, missed that, was more focused on a previous post in the thread. Sorry Jocko!

Now that I have reread Jock's reply, I can see the value. I was originally going to do a 2-piece hardline with a filter like that in the middle but I lost (or the mechanic that rebuilt the carb lost it) the fitting that both screws into the carb and holds the small filter. I asked for a replacement on here but no one had one. I tried to buy one but only NAPA carried it and it did not fit well. Maybe a replacement isn't made? The AN fitting I bought screws in fine but won't allow the filter to fit.....

Would there be much abrasion on the passenger side as in pic 2? What would the rubber rub against?

The connection from original fuel line along frame rail to pump consisted of a rather large rubber loop, mine did anyway. Looks like there are a lot of other rubber coated things on the passenger side.....like every spark plug wire. Are those seeing abrasion?

[davepl]

There's only one area of your life that should involve more than six inches of rubber, and it's not your truck's fuel lines.

The only reason we have any rubber whatsoever is to physically decouple between the cable and frame and the pump and frame. Otherwise, it would be ALL steel.

Less is more when it comes to gasoline and rubber hose.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by davepl

There's only one area of your life that should involve more than six inches of rubber, and it's not your truck's fuel lines.

The only reason we have any rubber whatsoever is to physically decouple between the cable and frame and the pump and frame. Otherwise, it would be ALL steel.

Less is more when it comes to gasoline and rubber hose.

What are you talking about man? I don't get it.

I know, I know....no rubber at all from pump to carb.

[pritch]

I bent up my own. It wasn't difficult. I had to buy a flare tool, but I needed one anyways.







I found a guy selling paper element fuel filters that fit in the carb like the originals, so now no rubber under the hood.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I think I'd route to the front with hard line, like Pritch's truck.

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I think I'd route to the front with hard line, like Pritch's truck.

X2 on this. Much easier than making your own stainless braided lines and also a lot cheaper. I bought an Eastwood bender and a used flaring tool at the local flea market. Straight hard line with fittings on both ends can be had at any parts house. Get the right fitting size and then you only have to flare one end. Make sure to blow out the newly bent line before connecting it. Job done!

[VWNate1]

Pritch did it right .

Always nice to see good handiworks .

I'm not good at bending steel lines, even with the proper tools .

You can use large sockets or round metal posts to make decent bends, go slowly and easily here .

Chevrolet actually did that over the top foolishness in the 1980's to $ave a few pennies . BAD IDEA

Steel pipe is important not only because of leaks but also because rubber hose retains heat and can cause vapor locking in Summer .

You carby did have an inlet filter when new, it was porous bronze and looks like a bunch if tiny balls glues to - gether ~ doesn't filter very well though, you'd be wise to add a paper element clear plastic filter in the hard line just before the carby .

[In The Ten Ring]

Ugh....I found a leak in my new line! Not any of the rubber connections but where the Autozone fitting screws into the fuel pump itself.

Maybe if I had flared that piece myself I'd have had more luck.....

Now guys I have bent line before, I replaced the entire fuel line from tank to pump using a bender linked by a member and a Craftsman flare kit. That flare kit was why I bought and installed a bench vise.

I haven't done single or double flares, just bubble ones.

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Ugh....I found a leak in my new line! Not any of the rubber connections but where the Autozone fitting screws into the fuel pump itself.

Maybe if I had flared that piece myself I'd have had more luck.....

Now guys I have bent line before, I replaced the entire fuel line from tank to pump using a bender linked by a member and a Craftsman flare kit. That flare kit was why I bought and installed a bench vise.

I haven't done single or double flares, just bubble ones.

All your pictures didn't come through....again......

[VWNate1]

It's good you bothered to check ~ many don't .

I hope the big storm I see on the TV radar isn't pounding you too badly .

[davepl]

BTW at the auto parts store around here you can buy pre-flared 5/16" steel hard line with the tube nuts already on it in various reasonable lengths. You can usually find a suitable length and bend the shape you want without having to cut/flare at all.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by davepl

BTW at the auto parts store around here you can buy pre-flared 5/16" steel hard line with the tube nuts already on it in various reasonable lengths. You can usually find a suitable length and bend the shape you want without having to cut/flare at all.

That's what I put on and that's what's leaking!

Sorry guys, no time for pics. Had to run dad over to the hospital today for a hernia operation. It went very well and I have already taken him home. I will be too busy today to get any pics though.

[jocko]

If you plan to place a metal filter inline, then you can simply buy two lengths of pre-flared lines that are slightly more than half the distance you need (or something like that, depends where you want to place the filter - might need a ahorty and a longy), cut them as appropriate for where you want to insert the filter, insert filter with short, clamped, rubber lengths that usually come in the filter kit, and call it a day. Only have to bend the tubes, no flaring required.

[RichardJ]

I went over the top. There isn't a lot of room in front if you add AC and a heat line for the intake manifold.
Some of you are making an issue about nothing. If you have to pull the valve cover, you have bigger problems than worrying about the fuel line.
If you have problems adjusting the valves cold and resort to adjusting with the engine running, then I could see your concern. Adjust the valves cold and don't pull the cover for ten or more years.

I hear guys crying about rubber hoses on an engine all the time, but heat is a bigger problem with plastic and electrical wires and connectors. Having said that, the steel fuel lines are virtually forever.

There is a smarter way to solve the problem.
Put the filter in the existing rubber line between the frame and the fuel pump.

Anything you don't want getting into the carb, you shouldn't want in the fuel pump either.

[rsavage]

They sell pre-bent steel pump to carb lines for about $30. In line tube lists one for $20 plus the ride. Seems like that would have been a simple solution.

[VWNate1]

Looking good Richard ! .

I want to add AC to my '69, who's brackets are you using ?.

FWIW, one should never put a fuel filter before the fuel pump .

I too use the pre flared steel pipes from my FLAPS, so far no leaks ~ maybe you didn't use a flare nut wrench or a tiny bit of crud got in ? .

230 & 250 CID engines all came with hydraulic lifters, you're supposed to set them with the engine idling, few ever do this .

Any i6 engine with solid lifters should have the valve gaps set at full operating temperature, not cold .

I hope you Dad is doing O.K. ~ hernias area b*tch ! I have left and right plus recurrences ~ make sure he is still until the Dr. says he can work again as they're easy to rip loose .

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by rsavage

They sell pre-bent steel pump to carb lines for about $30. In line tube lists one for $20 plus the ride. Seems like that would have been a simple solution.

Except it's not.....I tried the pre-bent line from Inline tube.com, that was my first choice, leaked like crazy!

Thanks Nate.....I gave it another look yesterday during all the times with my face a few inches from the points (inner fenders off) and I saw the tiny leak. Dad later suggest pipe tape but I think the link is at the flare itself...and I took very careful time to make sure that piece was on the outlet straight.

Dad is already up doing things! I stayed over here another night to be on hand to help and what does he do? Takes the trash out, REFUSES to let me do it..........yells at me "I GOT IT!" SMH.

[VWNate1]

You're welcome .

I dislike pipe tape/dope but once in a blue moon it's necessary .

Few people realize that GM made many slightly different pipes for essentially the same i6 engine depending on the model year, and how it was equipped .

Tricky to figure out which one you need -exactly- unless you have the old one to match to the picture .