My Dream 1950 Chevy

[Lripka1950]

I have found my dream truck, well I now call it my Birth Control project, I saw this truck for the last 3 years, drove by it everyday commuting to work. I had a great hunting season this year and on my way to work mid week there it was along the road 4 sale. I jumped on the opportunity, there is extra patch pannels, 350,700r4, and a bunch of extras.
Posted via Mobile Device

[mongocanfly]

sounds great....pictures. ..we need pictures. ...

[Dan in Pasadena]

Without pictures, it never happened!

[Lripka1950]

Originally Posted by Lripka1950

I have found my dream truck, well I now call it my Birth Control project, I saw this truck for the last 3 years, drove by it everyday commuting to work. I had a great hunting season this year and on my way to work mid week there it was along the road 4 sale. I jumped on the opportunity, there is extra patch pannels, 350,700r4, and a bunch of extras.
Posted via Mobile Device

Trying to figure out this uploading pics here hope,they works
Posted via Mobile Device

[PDW HOTRODS]

Looks like it it ready for some 18.5" wide rear tires. Looks like a good truck.

[Jesse Z]

S10 frame, small block Chevy, good body, great start!
First thing is to install a Blazer 4x4 diff to get a wider rear stance. Please keep us posted on your progress and let us know if we can help.

[Lripka1950]

Thanks for the advice, I will start looking the the 4×4 rear, I was already wondering what options I had to widen the rear.

[Lripka1950]

PDW, thanks I was actually thinking 20" but that will greatly depend on what my budget will be for a set of rims there are a lot to choose from but I would like to choose a modern version of the classics.

[hogfarm]

When you figure out the "budget" let me know.Mine was gone a long time ago

[Lripka1950]

Well I kind of need to keep it close, there are 8 kids in the house and they range from 17 - 8 weeks old. So we have one graduating this year. But that means I have a lot of help also when it comes time for the heavy lifting...

[51chevytruck]

With all that help you'll have it done in no time. lol

[Lripka1950]

Yep I hope so, I have some that need a reality check, changing oil, tires, rotations, ext. Costs $$.$$ and they need to learn the values of hard work and the time that they need to sacrificed in echange for money.

[Lripka1950]

Here are some more pics everyone

[Lripka1950]

Does anyone see thing that should be throwing a red flag?

[Jesse Z]

Originally Posted by Lripka1950

Does anyone see thing that should be throwing a red flag?

Oh believe me, if they did, they'd have let you know by now!

[Lripka1950]

Lol,

[mr48chev]

Well we all start somewhere and If I posted photos of mine it is pieces all over the yard right now.

First suggestion, go to the build thread section and read every S-10 swap build thread that the guys have posted and study the better ones. One of the guys has posted drawings for cab mounts that you can fab or have fabbed real easy and inexpensive in his that several guys have used. I can't really tell if the cab is mounted on the frame with mounts or just sitting on the frame in the photos.

On the cab repairs and it looks like you have a lot but that is what we see with trucks from that area, take the time to fit the doors right to the cab and brace the cab a bit before doing any big repairs and a lot of welding. I made the mistake of not doing that on my truck years ago and others have and there is no end to the headaches if you don't fit the doors right first before replacing a lot of metal in the cab.

If you run into a problem (on the truck not with you wife) stop and ask questions on here and someone will come up with the right answer. We have a serous knowledge base on these trucks here and someone will know or know where to find the answer.

If you don't have them two things you might put on your Christmas list are the 1950 Factory service manual and the factory assembly manual

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ervice+manual+

Even with a lot of the truck not being stock those two manuals answer a lot of questions that pop up and the service manual walks you through a lot of processes like lining up hood and fenders and working on the insides of the doors in simple easy to follow step by step instructions. The Assembly manual shows you how the factory put the cab together and the drawings really help you visualize how it is supposed to go.

[Lripka1950]

Mr48chev,

Thanks for the sound advice, the entire truck body is just sitting on the frame, nothing is mounted right now. I will be looking for the specs on the mounting brackets, I have a local welding shop that could churn them out quick.
The cab is pretty rough, complete floor pan replacement right now it has nothing there.

Luckily i have the privilege of having a 2 car garage and it will be parked inside so I can work on it whenever I feel like, I will definitely be posting updates and pictures along the entire process.

Once again thanks for the sound advice

[Lripka1950]

Anyone have suggestions for a good set of Rotors and Calipers? I want to upgrade from stock but don't want to go overboard.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Lripka1950

Mr48chev,

Thanks for the sound advice, the entire truck body is just sitting on the frame, nothing is mounted right now. I will be looking for the specs on the mounting brackets, I have a local welding shop that could churn them out quick.
The cab is pretty rough, complete floor pan replacement right now it has nothing there.

Luckily i have the privilege of having a 2 car garage and it will be parked inside so I can work on it whenever I feel like, I will definitely be posting updates and pictures along the entire process.

Once again thanks for the sound advice

Let me do my best to start from the beginning. That is, what are the costly gotchas that will add up quickly on a "budget" build. Keep in mind, I'm not a car guy. I only know one type of car, a 3100 on an S10 chassis, and only in Pennsylvania haha.

1. From the front to the back, I see a missing front grill, core support, and inner fenders that could set you back along with running boards. Aside from the needed patch panels and cab work, I don't see bumpers front or back. No pictures of interior, so I'd be interested to see how much needs to be replaced between seats, steering, and electrical systems. I also noticed missing glass on the door and windshield. With that much stuff missing, I'd ballpark $4000-$5000 optimistically.

2. Onto that engine. Looks pretty bare bones where you're missing all the accessory drive alternator, wiring, starter, carburetor, radiator, and I don't see a driveshaft to connect to the rear end. Give yourself about $1000 to $1500 being frugal

3. Onto the frame mount. Nothing looks mounted. Thankfully, with the right measurements, that's not terribly difficult. I do see the chassis may be missing a fuel cell or the S10 fuel tank. I did all my own work as have a lot of builds on this thread. Check the S10 thread and my build thread for some ideas on mounting. The bed mounts will also have to be fabricated however you decide to do that. Doing all the work myself, I think my mounts probably cost me about $250. I spent $1000 on tools to do it but learned a ton about welding and fabrication. Steel is cheap if you're willing to put in the time. It'll probably cost you about that to have someone else do it along with towing to the shop and back.

4. Lets talk paperwork....without a clear title, you're buying a giant pile of patch panels for some other project haha. PA is a bit of a pain for registration. If the title is available, make sure the cab plate is on the cab (drivers side door jam) and that it matches the paperwork.

What is the seller asking for this? Keep in mind what you're about to spend and if it makes sense that this particular truck is the one you should buy. I am inclined to think, from the pictures, that you're taking a harder route to your dream 1950.

As a side note....a 2 car garage would be the minimum size. I filled mine when the truck was apart and still had to kick tools and crap around while I was trying to work.

With all that said, you are 2 1/2 hours from me. If you ever wanted to stop by I am happy to show you what the truck would look like a year or two from now and we can talk about how mine got to its current state (driveable). I wish I had someone I could have done the same before I jumped in. Check my build thread to see what I did.

Edit: Good call JD on the bumper. Kind of fun trying to figure all this out on a few interweb pics. I see a bumper peeking out of the bed. Also interesting tailgate on that one.

[mongocanfly]

oh my..the red flag question...you've got a lot of work (aka years and $$$) ahead of you unless you can dedicate all your spare time to it...I'm guessing with that many mouths to feed you've already got a full schedule..giga is pretty spot on with it..but in my neck of the woods that would be a parts donor truck..not saying it can't be built...I've seen much worse built and put back on the road..and its nothing a lot of guys here haven't faced before..your gonna be sick and tired of sheetmetal work before its over..there's lots of ambitious projects on here that get started and then fall of the map when guys underestimate what they're getting into..
do as giga stated..go see his truck and get a good idea for what your fixing to get into..but hey..if you can get the kids involved in something that doesn't have a screen on it then go for it...

[joedoh]

get the body mounted and I think you will be fine. LMC sells the glass and seals for cheap. I see the front bumper in the bed and you said it came with parts and patch panels.

gig is right, these projects cost more than people think, I dont skimp on safety and scrounge for the rest and it still costs more than the lowest offers I get (not take) when I sell them on. I like to find the best body I can because rust repair is a progress killer, especially for me. I spend three weeks avoiding it and a couple weeks doing it. I like finding the best body I can now. ironically the truck I am working on was rusted under the gas tank, like 80% of the non-removable parts of the floor and the rear section.

my advice is to eat the project one bite at a time. dont worry about pulleys on the motor yet, no danger in it running right now. dont worry about axles or wheels or spacers, dont worry about glass or the mismatched doors. get the cab mounted. get the core support mounted. get the bed mounted. all three of those things are the cheapest things to do. then patch the metal that needs patching. then start with wiring and hoses and all that nickle stuff that costs thousands. coax it to life and worry about a driveshaft.

do what comes first before worrying about what comes next. I see guys get overwhelmed with the total cost and not even start, or worse, blow their budget up front on stuff they wont need till later. gauges will always be for sale, so will chrome goodies for the engine, so will fancy shift levers. your mortgage seems insurmountable till you spread it over 30 years, thats how this will be too.

focus on getting it running and driving and only do things that work towards that goal. there are two reasons, firstly pushing the dead truck around sucks. second, its easier to take a truck down for the weekend to do some project than it is to make a bunch of disconnected upgrades before it runs and scratch your head why it wont start or move.

everyone here can help. everyone, even the guys that just read the project threads because they will tell you where to find info.

[Erics51chevy]

Also in pa. Even though my truck came pretty much as a whole, i still had to make/replace everything anyway so the demo was pretty much all the way done for you. My advice is chip away little by little and have fun with it. Quit working on it each day when you've made some progress and are happy with what you did,instead of getting sick of it and not wanting to go back to it the next day. My regret on my truck is not redoing the whole cab floor, didnt use the seat frame and floor support anyway.

[Lripka1950]

Yes there is going to be a lot of body work, I was actually thinking of having a friend tackle the bulk of the cab and I will hit the simpler things, like getting the engine running, and stretching the frame and new body and cab mounts. I think I solved my power source provlem. I can run a sub pannel off my generator for all,the power I need to run my MIG, it's a 6500 w 30 amp I will just fire it up when I need it.

[Lripka1950]

I think I already know the answer to this but kinda looking for advice, Should I rebuild/ overhaul my 350 SB, I don't have a lot of history on the engine, I know what my gut is saying and that's to overhaul the entire engine top to bottom, do a 30 over and it's basically brand new. Anyones thoughts are welcome.