56 frame/running gear advice

[Jafo20]

I would like some suggestions on a direction for this truck. I assume the frame and running gear are the place to start. I’m ok with stock suspension if it’s a legit way to go for a daily driver these days. The rear end that came with it is a 10 bolt approx 55” backing plate to plate. I’m hoping the automatic trans is salvageable. I have no steering box or column. Also I do t know if the front suspension is stock is what? I’ll post pics. I’d like to keep this project as simple and easy as possible. Thanks

[dsraven]

here is a quick way to id the trans.I would suggest to pull the dipstick and smell the fluid and also wipe the dipstick on some white paper towel. if it smells burnt or is dark coloured it may have been run hard. you wouldn't know without at least pulling the pan off and seeing what is in the bottom.
the front suspension looks stock minus the steering box. best thing to do would be jack it up and check the kingpins for wear then the tie rods and the bar that connects the two sides. best to do a study on what needs to be replaced, price it out and go from there. if you need the kingpins done then you need a machine shop to replace the bushings ream them to it the new pins.
things to check
king pin wear
tie rod wear
drag link wear
brake lining condition and wear, front and rear
brake drum condition, front and rear
brake wheel cylinder condition (gotta pull it apart and check for rust pitting in the bore or just replace the cylinders)
brake hoses, front and rear
brake steel lines and connection fittings
consider replacing the brake master cylinder to have a dual system set up. the old trucks had a single system which means the front and rear brakes are one system. if there is a failure you lose all your brakes. this was changed in later years to be a dual system so if one circuit failed you still have the other circuit. way safer and an upgrade to consider doing.
brake master cylinder condition
source a steering box which, if stock, will have the steering column integral to the box
source a steering wheel and turn signal parts
replace shocks on all 4 corners
check/replace springs and spring pins at all 4 corners
check/service/flush the rear axle
check front and rear axle bearings and seals also the rear axles themselves for wear in the "c" clip retainer area and the bearing surface area
check the frame for straight and sag
check the frame rivets and cross members for integrity
check/replace the cab mounts
check all the rust areas of the cab and other body parts

I suggest to price it all out and then price out the cost of doing some sort of IFS system and decide which way you want to go.
this is not a complete list, just a good start

[Jafo20]

Thanks.... I’ll get the engine pulled and tossed tomorrow. I’ll also inspect the trans. I have a wheel stud spinning inside the rear axle. Deep mag wheel lug nut too...bummer.

[dsraven]

what kind of daily diving will you be doing? back roads with a solid axle or freeway/city driving with a solid axle? it's the standard brakes and steering that will get you after awhile, it sucks parking or stopping fast. there are kits available though if you decide to keep the solid axle. power steering and brakes would definately make it more fun to drive. it's not like the old days when the parking lots were made for big vehicles.

[Jafo20]

Mostly highway driving.... I would want disc brakes in front at least and which power steering set up would be good for my stock front axle setup? Or is it a waist of money rebuilding the stock setup?

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by Jafo20

Mostly highway driving.... I would want disc brakes in front at least and which power steering set up would be good for my stock front axle setup? Or is it a waist of money rebuilding the stock setup?

It's been my observation that, when it comes to forums, members are very happy to spend your money for you! Before your done, they'll have you convinced that unless you have the most ultra-sophisticated high-tech chassis, you will inevitably crash into a school bus load of orphans, sending them careening off a cliff to their deaths.

Moral: unless those offering opinions are ready to finance your project, do what YOU want and what fits YOUR budget - and most importantly - what satisfies your personal aesthetic.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Jafo20

Mostly highway driving.... I would want disc brakes in front at least and which power steering set up would be good for my stock front axle setup? Or is it a waist of money rebuilding the stock setup?

I kept a stock suspension and added a CPP 6 lug front disc brake kit. I also added a CPP 400 power steering box.

I've taken a few 400 mile round trips with it and so has my wife by herself. No complaints at all. Feels pretty stable at 70. I've had it up to 85 or so but I keep it 70 on the highway most of the time.

It is important to get a good front end alignment and find a guy who doesn't mind putting shims under the springs in order to tweak the caster setting. I found an alignment shop where the owner of the shop was an old truck guy himself.

[SanJosesSteve]

Hi Mongo, I just gotta ask..... What is wrong with that type of tie rod end? I've been looking hard at mine as I don't know how old they are. I recently had the original fan blade come apart on the freeway, (at 9pm, it was an attention getter!) which has me thinking a lot about metal fatigue in a 60 year old truck. I was thinking this is one of the worst items to have fail while going 50mph. (Any speed really...) The one you pointed out looks very similar to mine. Can you expand on that comment? Is there a better style of tie rod end that would be better? Thanks, -Steve

[mongocanfly]

well Steve. ..first, its more opinion than anything mixed with a little first hand experience...dad had one pop outta the socket when I was a kid (not a fun ride)..luckily no injuries...I know of several others with the same issues....granted, regular maintenance may have prevented this...dads old tractors have the same style joints on them...loose the cotter pin , the adj backs out, next thing you know youve got wheels pointing in the opposite direction...if youve ever taken one apart youll see how its put together.....i've also seen modern ball joints come apart as well though....
again..my opinion. ..I dont wantem on my truck...I also know there's lots and lots of old vehicles that had them that racked up lots of miles with no issues....
by design I don't know if there is a replacement....hence swapping the front clip...

[Russell Ashley]

There's kits available for those to replace the cups and springs, or you can change your tie rod and steering arms to use ball joints, but if the front end needs anything else I'd just update to a better front suspension. If you get into rebuilding that axle and replacing the spring bushings, getting disk brakes, etc. you will be approaching the cost of a suspension that will have rack and pinion steering and the other things you will want. I'm not trying to spend your money, I'm only telling you my opinion. I made the mistake of spending a lot of money on a straight axle only to remove it all and buy a Scotts suspension. Like the others have said though, you only have to please yourself.

[dsraven]

as per my previous post, go through the complete truck, front to rear, and make an honest list of everything you can find that you will need to fix or replace. right down to the speedo cable or heater motor.price it all out and then decide what you can best do with your available budget., like said, an ifs kit may be the way to go seeing that you want to do highway speeds. I understand, guys will say big trucks are still driving around with solid axles. I know, but they are NEW solid axles with NEW style tie rod ends and steering components and have power steering. if you ask the single question of how many daily drivers are out there with a solid axle that LOVE it still and drive it at highway speeds during rush hour and park it at the safeway store during peak periods, just like any other daily driver would, I bet the list would be short.
long story short, do some homework and have a plan before pulling the trigger
don't spend money on cool cosmetic stuff until the truck starts, drives and stops

[Jafo20]

Thanks everyone..... what do you suggest I do about the frozen lug nut in that 10 bolt? Also that 10 bolt looks kinda suspect... hokey brackets. I’ll price out a independent suspension and the 78 subframe has a 400 asking price. Looks complete with steering box and sway bar. Plus cost and time to rebuild it. Thanks

[mongocanfly]

if you open up the diff and pull the c-clip you can slide the axle/tire/wheel/brake drum out....then you might be able to grind the head off that wheel stud on the back side of the axle flange and drive it out towards the wheel side with a punch...... (disclaimer) maybe..

[Jafo20]

Thanks.... should use the 10 bolt.... or explore other rear ends? Any good junk yard rears with discs and posi work in these trucks? Also is this the way you sub frame? See pic. Thanks

[dsraven]

from brother's trucks

55-59 KINGPIN SET - 1/2 TON
Item #: KPRS400
$79.99
this requires some machine shop work to hone or ream the new bushings to fit the new king pin shafts. some guys simply take the stuff apart and deliver it to a machine shop and they do the whole job, including pressing out the old bushings, pressing in the new bushings, honing or reaming (some bushing sets have teflon surfaces and require a reamer, some are just brass bushings that need to be honed). some guys will remove the whole front axle and take the complete unit to the shop and have them dissassemble and rebuild it. it's a money, skill, time, shop space and available tool thing.

47-59 OUTER TIE ROD END
Item #: TRO4759
left $149.99
right $149.99

47-59 STEEL CENTER TIE ROD
Item #: RTR4759
$59.99
this is the tube that goes from left to right

55-59 DRAG LINK
Item #: OFDL559
$99.99
this connects the steering box to the steering part by the wheel

55-59 PERFORMANCE GAS SHOCK - FRONT
Item #: DGS059F
$49.99 each (2 req)

55-59 FRONT SHOCK MOUNTS
Item #: 5559FSM
$79.99
don't know if you require them but lots of the stock ones are worn out, missing or broken

55-59 FRONT LEAF SPRING BUSHING AN PIN 1/2 & 3/4
Item #: SEBB012
$34.99 each (2 req)
these go on the front of each spring

55-56 SPRING SHACKLE SET - ALL
Item #: BSS0130
44.99 each (2 req)
these go on the rear of each spring

55-59 LEAF SPRING - FRONT - 1/2 TON - EACH
Item #: LFS5559
$209.99 each (2 req)
don't know if you require these but I included them anyway

51-70 DRUM BRAKE - FRONT/REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: FMA5154
$49.99 each (2 req)

51-59 DRUM BRAKE SHOES - FRONT - 1/2 TON
Item #: DBS1001
$34.99

51-63 BRAKE SPRING SET- FRONT/REAR
Item #: BSK5154
$24.99

51-59 WHEEL CYLINDER - FRONT - 1/2 TON
Item #: WCF5900
$39.99 right
$39.99 left

55-59 FRONT BRAKE HOSE - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED
Item #: PNYWS09
$16.99 each (2 req)

55-59 MASTER CYLINDER - 1/2 TON TO 1 TON
Item #: MC15559
$99.99
this is a stock, single system master cyl. you may want to upgrade to something with a dual system. single system brakes means the whole system runs on a single hydraulic circuit. if you have a leak or a line bursts etc then you lose ALL your brakes at the same time. they changed that back in the 60's.

55-56 BRAKE LINE SET - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED - 2WD - STEEL
Item #: CTB5501
$175.00
these are the steel lines for the whole truck

BRAKE LINE RETAINER SET - SPECIFIC
Item #: FBLCS00
51-59-$19.99
these are the clips used to hold the brake lines


47-59 TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS
Item #: TRB4759
$179.99
this is an upgrade from the ball bearings that these old trucks came with. better for radial tires and larger side loads


that is the stock front end stuff minus the steering box. you could source a used stock box, which will come with the steering column pressed into the box. you would also need a steering wheel and a horn/signal switch combo.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
rear, assuming you have a stock rear axle.

55-59 PARKBRAKE CABLE - FRONT - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED
Item #: CF91959
$19.99

55-59 PARKBRAKE CABLE - REAR
Item #: CR91949
$24.99 each (2 req)

51-59 DRUM BRAKE SHOES - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: DBS1002
$49.99

51-70 DRUM BRAKE - FRONT/REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: FMA5154
$49.99 each (2 req)

51-63 BRAKE SPRING SET- FRONT/REAR
Item #: BSK5154
$24.99

55-73 WHEEL CYLINDER - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: WCR7200
left $19.99
right $19.99

51-54 FRONT BRAKE HOSE & 51-59 REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: PNYWS02
$16.99
this is the hose that goes from the frame to the axle

55-59 REAR LEAF SPRING PIN AND BUSHING 1/2 & 3/4
Item #: SEBB013
$39.99 each (2 req)

also need a tapered lock pin to hold the pin in the bracket. part TLP5559. did not come up for me. probably add a few more bucks for that

55-56 SPRING SHACKLE SET - ALL
Item #: BSS0130
$44.99 each(2 req)

55-59 PERFORMANCE GAS SHOCK - REAR
Item #: DGS059R
49.99 each (2 req)

47-59 AXLE BUMPERS
Item #: AXB4759
$9.99 each (2 req)

55-59 LEAF SPRING - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: LFR5559
$349.99 each (2 req)
don't know if you need them but put them in anyway


----------------------
now, if you wanted to upgrade to power steering.

here is a power steering kit from classic performance parts. this may cause problems with header/exhaust manifold interference due to it's width from the frame mount but bolts on in the stock location. it comes with hoses I think. you would need a steering column/steering wheel/signal switch etc from a donor vehicle that is long enough to get through the floor with the wheel at a comfortable height for you with your seat arrangement. did you say you had one that came with the truck? if not try to also grab the auto shift linkage and rods etc from the donor. some columns have a high low beam switch, ign key, tilt etc. some will have a gear indicator on the column , some have a cable operated thing that works a linkage in the cluster. these would be more difficult to know what gear you are in because the original dash doesn't have that. you also need the hanger for the column that goes under the dash, or fab one.

CP50006C 1955-59, 400 Series™, each
$379.00

another cpp part below
collapsable steering column shaft to connect the column to the box and the end of your steering column where it protrudes through the floor.
4759CSS 1947-59 with U-joints, each Photo/Info
$139.00

more brothers stuff now

47-87 POWER STEERING PUMP WITH DOUBLE PULLEY
Item #: PSP4766
$169.99

47-87 POWER STEERING PUMP BRACKET KIT - PLAIN
Item #: PSPB766
$59.99

some of this stuff would be available at pick n pull for cheap, like the power steering pump with brackets, a column etc. the box is apparently from a toyota truck but that is something you can research if you decide to go that way. there is also a box conversion that puts a '70's era box on the outside of the frame ahead of the wheels but that one limits the steering because the tires will rub the box on a hard right turn. there is also a power assist unit available but, from experience on other units like that over the years, they are prone to leakage and can be either too sensitive or not very sensitive. if doing a power steering conversion you may also need the adjustable drag link. that is the part that connects the steering arm on the box to the steering arm on the front axle part.

now for power brakes

here is a link to show a power brake front disc conversion from performance online. it is just the first one I clicked on, there are others available that mount differently using the stock old truck bearing hub and a slip on rotor. not sure what availability of rotors would be later. this kit uses stock camaro rotors which is a bonus for a daily driver because nearly every parts place would have availability same day. beware that some kits have larger rotors that won't fit with a stock 15" wheel because the calipers will interfere with the wheel.if you plan on swapping to disc brakes at some point remember that the master cylinder is different for disc brakes compared to drum brakes. it would be more cost effective to do that job the first time rather than in the future. a disc front/disc rear is yet another master cylinder.

here is a link for just the power booster and master cyl so you could use stock brake est up
https://www.fabquest.com/55-59-chevy...-assembly.html

one from classic parts that is just the booster and mounting bracket
https://www.classicparts.com/1955-59...ctinfo/71-908/

here is a link to show how to install power brake kit from cpp, if you want to see how involved the job would be. maybe a do it yourself job, not sure of your skill set.
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...on-braking.htm

--------------------------------------------------
i really recommend a power brake unit of some sort. some guys use hydroboost as well but it takes some fab work. the nice thing about hydroboost is it takes less room. it runs off pressure from the power steering pump. check ogre's thread to see what he did for his hydroboost if that interests you. I also really recommend a power steering system for a daily driver. make it easy to use and the fun level will go up automatically.

---------------------------------------
the front clip swap is another alternative and may be cheaper to do but more labour intensive and should be welded in by a qualified welder. set up is key to get things at the correct ride height, level and correct geometry for the clip to work as it was intended. bear in mind that you will also need to come up with a firewall mounted pedal set up. not the end of the world. some of the aftermarket power brake set ups use a firewall mounted brake booster and include a pedal set up in the kit.
if you are getting the clip from a donor vehicle try to grab as much stuff as you can, complete clip with stabilizer bar, steering box and pump, hoses etc, set of 5 wheels, master cylinder, proportioning valve and booster, possibly the rear axle, seats etc. anything you can think of that you will need for your truck. a clip will usually yield you 5 bolt wheels so if you can get the rear axle as well, with stabilizer bars etc, then you would have a matched set up for wheels. most guys would like to get rid of as much stuff from a parts car as they can all at once and there could be a better deal the more parts you grab.
if doing the clip thing, try to get a measurement of the angle of the frame with the weight of the car on it. that way you will know the angle that the frame is supposed to be at when at ride height.

here is a recent thread showing a good idea for marking the location of the rad support if doing a clip. it is one of those things that can drive you crazy if you have to try to figure it out after the frame is cut off. the same for the front bumper horns.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=730565&page=2

there are lots of guys who have done the clip thing and probably as many ways to get it done. just take lots of pics no matter what you do so you have a reference later.

anyway, this is getting pretty long winded but hopefully it will help you decide what you want to do with your project.

[dsraven]

how you weld the clip on can depend on the ride height desired. low ride =clip attached higher on the frame. decide on wheel size etc before you get to this point. tire diameter makes a difference for clip attachment and wheel centering in the front fender wheel opening.
many different ways. some clips have the steering box ahead of the wheels and some are behind. makes a difference for the steering column shaft. some guys box the frame, some don't. whatever you do try to incorporate some frame stiffness around the cab mounts so the frame doesn't spread apart there. you will have body problems if that happens.

[dsraven]

here is another idea you might think about. dunno what the pricing is like but probably rides well. depends on what you could get donor parts for i suppose. it's worth going through some build threads to see what other guys have done and what works/doesn't work.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=730111
a guy in new zealand with a '58)

another but needs the photoshop fix for your computer so you can see the pics (ogre's build)

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501998

another interesting build

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?t=440079/
(kabwe aka bam's build)


here is a site with truck manuals which may give you some specs on something you require

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...esto/index.htm


you might also check some of the other forums like these

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/

http://classicchevytrucks.org/truck-forum/

https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads...s.php/ubb/cfrm

here are a couple of pics which may help you in your build. an assembly manual would also have a whack of info in it regarding how things are supposed to go together, specs etc. they are about $30 online I think.

[Jafo20]

Originally Posted by dsraven

from brother's trucks

55-59 KINGPIN SET - 1/2 TON
Item #: KPRS400
$79.99
this requires some machine shop work to hone or ream the new bushings to fit the new king pin shafts. some guys simply take the stuff apart and deliver it to a machine shop and they do the whole job, including pressing out the old bushings, pressing in the new bushings, honing or reaming (some bushing sets have teflon surfaces and require a reamer, some are just brass bushings that need to be honed). some guys will remove the whole front axle and take the complete unit to the shop and have them dissassemble and rebuild it. it's a money, skill, time, shop space and available tool thing.

47-59 OUTER TIE ROD END
Item #: TRO4759
left $149.99
right $149.99

47-59 STEEL CENTER TIE ROD
Item #: RTR4759
$59.99
this is the tube that goes from left to right

55-59 DRAG LINK
Item #: OFDL559
$99.99
this connects the steering box to the steering part by the wheel

55-59 PERFORMANCE GAS SHOCK - FRONT
Item #: DGS059F
$49.99 each (2 req)

55-59 FRONT SHOCK MOUNTS
Item #: 5559FSM
$79.99
don't know if you require them but lots of the stock ones are worn out, missing or broken

55-59 FRONT LEAF SPRING BUSHING AN PIN 1/2 & 3/4
Item #: SEBB012
$34.99 each (2 req)
these go on the front of each spring

55-56 SPRING SHACKLE SET - ALL
Item #: BSS0130
44.99 each (2 req)
these go on the rear of each spring

55-59 LEAF SPRING - FRONT - 1/2 TON - EACH
Item #: LFS5559
$209.99 each (2 req)
don't know if you require these but I included them anyway

51-70 DRUM BRAKE - FRONT/REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: FMA5154
$49.99 each (2 req)

51-59 DRUM BRAKE SHOES - FRONT - 1/2 TON
Item #: DBS1001
$34.99

51-63 BRAKE SPRING SET- FRONT/REAR
Item #: BSK5154
$24.99

51-59 WHEEL CYLINDER - FRONT - 1/2 TON
Item #: WCF5900
$39.99 right
$39.99 left

55-59 FRONT BRAKE HOSE - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED
Item #: PNYWS09
$16.99 each (2 req)

55-59 MASTER CYLINDER - 1/2 TON TO 1 TON
Item #: MC15559
$99.99
this is a stock, single system master cyl. you may want to upgrade to something with a dual system. single system brakes means the whole system runs on a single hydraulic circuit. if you have a leak or a line bursts etc then you lose ALL your brakes at the same time. they changed that back in the 60's.

55-56 BRAKE LINE SET - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED - 2WD - STEEL
Item #: CTB5501
$175.00
these are the steel lines for the whole truck

BRAKE LINE RETAINER SET - SPECIFIC
Item #: FBLCS00
51-59-$19.99
these are the clips used to hold the brake lines


47-59 TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS
Item #: TRB4759
$179.99
this is an upgrade from the ball bearings that these old trucks came with. better for radial tires and larger side loads


that is the stock front end stuff minus the steering box. you could source a used stock box, which will come with the steering column pressed into the box. you would also need a steering wheel and a horn/signal switch combo.


-------------------------------------------------------------------------
rear, assuming you have a stock rear axle.

55-59 PARKBRAKE CABLE - FRONT - 1/2 TON - SHORTBED
Item #: CF91959
$19.99

55-59 PARKBRAKE CABLE - REAR
Item #: CR91949
$24.99 each (2 req)

51-59 DRUM BRAKE SHOES - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: DBS1002
$49.99

51-70 DRUM BRAKE - FRONT/REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: FMA5154
$49.99 each (2 req)

51-63 BRAKE SPRING SET- FRONT/REAR
Item #: BSK5154
$24.99

55-73 WHEEL CYLINDER - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: WCR7200
left $19.99
right $19.99

51-54 FRONT BRAKE HOSE & 51-59 REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: PNYWS02
$16.99
this is the hose that goes from the frame to the axle

55-59 REAR LEAF SPRING PIN AND BUSHING 1/2 & 3/4
Item #: SEBB013
$39.99 each (2 req)

also need a tapered lock pin to hold the pin in the bracket. part TLP5559. did not come up for me. probably add a few more bucks for that

55-56 SPRING SHACKLE SET - ALL
Item #: BSS0130
$44.99 each(2 req)

55-59 PERFORMANCE GAS SHOCK - REAR
Item #: DGS059R
49.99 each (2 req)

47-59 AXLE BUMPERS
Item #: AXB4759
$9.99 each (2 req)

55-59 LEAF SPRING - REAR - 1/2 TON
Item #: LFR5559
$349.99 each (2 req)
don't know if you need them but put them in anyway


----------------------
now, if you wanted to upgrade to power steering.

here is a power steering kit from classic performance parts. this may cause problems with header/exhaust manifold interference due to it's width from the frame mount but bolts on in the stock location. it comes with hoses I think. you would need a steering column/steering wheel/signal switch etc from a donor vehicle that is long enough to get through the floor with the wheel at a comfortable height for you with your seat arrangement. did you say you had one that came with the truck? if not try to also grab the auto shift linkage and rods etc from the donor. some columns have a high low beam switch, ign key, tilt etc. some will have a gear indicator on the column , some have a cable operated thing that works a linkage in the cluster. these would be more difficult to know what gear you are in because the original dash doesn't have that. you also need the hanger for the column that goes under the dash, or fab one.

CP50006C 1955-59, 400 Series™, each
$379.00

another cpp part below
collapsable steering column shaft to connect the column to the box and the end of your steering column where it protrudes through the floor.
4759CSS 1947-59 with U-joints, each Photo/Info
$139.00

more brothers stuff now

47-87 POWER STEERING PUMP WITH DOUBLE PULLEY
Item #: PSP4766
$169.99

47-87 POWER STEERING PUMP BRACKET KIT - PLAIN
Item #: PSPB766
$59.99

some of this stuff would be available at pick n pull for cheap, like the power steering pump with brackets, a column etc. the box is apparently from a toyota truck but that is something you can research if you decide to go that way. there is also a box conversion that puts a '70's era box on the outside of the frame ahead of the wheels but that one limits the steering because the tires will rub the box on a hard right turn. there is also a power assist unit available but, from experience on other units like that over the years, they are prone to leakage and can be either too sensitive or not very sensitive. if doing a power steering conversion you may also need the adjustable drag link. that is the part that connects the steering arm on the box to the steering arm on the front axle part.

now for power brakes

here is a link to show a power brake front disc conversion from performance online. it is just the first one I clicked on, there are others available that mount differently using the stock old truck bearing hub and a slip on rotor. not sure what availability of rotors would be later. this kit uses stock camaro rotors which is a bonus for a daily driver because nearly every parts place would have availability same day. beware that some kits have larger rotors that won't fit with a stock 15" wheel because the calipers will interfere with the wheel.if you plan on swapping to disc brakes at some point remember that the master cylinder is different for disc brakes compared to drum brakes. it would be more cost effective to do that job the first time rather than in the future. a disc front/disc rear is yet another master cylinder.

here is a link for just the power booster and master cyl so you could use stock brake est up
https://www.fabquest.com/55-59-chevy...-assembly.html

one from classic parts that is just the booster and mounting bracket
https://www.classicparts.com/1955-59...ctinfo/71-908/

here is a link to show how to install power brake kit from cpp, if you want to see how involved the job would be. maybe a do it yourself job, not sure of your skill set.
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...on-braking.htm

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i really recommend a power brake unit of some sort. some guys use hydroboost as well but it takes some fab work. the nice thing about hydroboost is it takes less room. it runs off pressure from the power steering pump. check ogre's thread to see what he did for his hydroboost if that interests you. I also really recommend a power steering system for a daily driver. make it easy to use and the fun level will go up automatically.

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the front clip swap is another alternative and may be cheaper to do but more labour intensive and should be welded in by a qualified welder. set up is key to get things at the correct ride height, level and correct geometry for the clip to work as it was intended. bear in mind that you will also need to come up with a firewall mounted pedal set up. not the end of the world. some of the aftermarket power brake set ups use a firewall mounted brake booster and include a pedal set up in the kit.
if you are getting the clip from a donor vehicle try to grab as much stuff as you can, complete clip with stabilizer bar, steering box and pump, hoses etc, set of 5 wheels, master cylinder, proportioning valve and booster, possibly the rear axle, seats etc. anything you can think of that you will need for your truck. a clip will usually yield you 5 bolt wheels so if you can get the rear axle as well, with stabilizer bars etc, then you would have a matched set up for wheels. most guys would like to get rid of as much stuff from a parts car as they can all at once and there could be a better deal the more parts you grab.
if doing the clip thing, try to get a measurement of the angle of the frame with the weight of the car on it. that way you will know the angle that the frame is supposed to be at when at ride height.

here is a recent thread showing a good idea for marking the location of the rad support if doing a clip. it is one of those things that can drive you crazy if you have to try to figure it out after the frame is cut off. the same for the front bumper horns.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=730565&page=2

there are lots of guys who have done the clip thing and probably as many ways to get it done. just take lots of pics no matter what you do so you have a reference later.

anyway, this is getting pretty long winded but hopefully it will help you decide what you want to do with your project.

Thank you .... I appreciate all the info.
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[idbeast]

This is how I did mine, top of sub-frame even with top of clip, and boxed in...

[Jafo20]

Looks like MII front suspension with power rack is the way to go for a daily driver. Speeway sells a affordable kit. Any suggestions for a kit or parts? Thanks

[dsraven]

don't know your skills as far as welding etc, but there is also a bolt in kit.
you need to know a few things first
ride height desired
wheel size desired to fit over brakes
tire size desired and any offsets for tire sizes (affects rake angle)
brake size desired
polished or painted control arms
coil springs (may need engine style for weight designation)
manual or power steering
weld in or bolt in

there is also a diy kit available from welders series in Canada. USD is pretty good right now. they have a youtube showing the kit and how much welding is involved
should read the heidts "understanding independent front uspensions) first so you understand what to look for in a kit and why, also some dimensions that can affect bump steer etc. check how the upper control arms are installed at the inboard end-T bolts or chevy style shim packs for adjustment.
compare apples to apples. steel thickness, control arm tubing thickness, steering component quality etc