Choosing a transmission crossmember

[Matt_50]

I want to buy one of those universal bolt in crossmembers for my trans. I cut up the factory one and kinda made it work... but I'll save myself some future headaches by just buying one.

Factory 50 frame. Th350 trans.

I've never bought a universal crossmember before so I want to make sure I have this correct. I need to buy a mount pad, anchor style? I need to install the pad, support the trans and then measure how far down the bottom of pad is compared to bottom of frame rails and that's my drop right?

And to get the angle perfect, I can shim some if needed?

[Matt_50]

I can get this mount up the street and this is the kind of crossmember I'm wanting. Just want to make I get the right one.

[CANUCIT]

Let us know how it works, once you do it

[DransportGarage]

I used that one on my '55 2nd series and had to modify it extensively because I put my power brake unit in its way. Without the brake unit in the way it would have worked without a problem. On a '50 frame your mileage may vary.

I'm not sure what a "mount pad, anchor style" is. You show the crossmember and the trans mount in your picture. That should be all you need.

Someone with an AD truck can fill in...

[joedoh]

I used one like that and it worked great

Messages Image(4025115421) by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7453 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I used the extra pieces from the engine mount crossmember to make it removable.

one thing to watch is the "drop" amount, I used a 2" drop and next time I will use a 4" drop so my exhaust fits better.

also, my trans mount had a single center bolt so I had to modify the mounting pad slightly

IMG_7408 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

[72Mountaineer]

I used a 2nd gen Camaro trans crossmember on mine. A little bit of fabbing, but the right width and bends for exhaust.

[Matt_50]

Google called that kind of mount, a pad and a anchor style kind... My biggest question is, how do i measure and get the correct drop?

[_Ogre]

universal kits need to be cut to size and welded onto the frame
if your going to cut and weld use square tube. it's cheap and just as easy to fabricate

[CANUCIT]

Just order you a new one this way it will come balanced

[Matt_50]

Ok guys, got it in. Had to also get a new mount, other one had bad threads.

Went in real smooth, minor trimming to fit. The center rotates in the end pieces, and I have not welded it just yet. I have a couple questions.


Where to place angle finder, each spot gave me different reading, or wouldn't real change when I jacked up or down. I put it on pan, on screws that hold pan, and on the very end on shaft.

Next, when I weld tube to keep from rotating any, I need to make sure the pad is parallel to mount surface on bottom of trans right?

[dsraven]

it's a dillema for sure, where to place the angle finder. the trans shaft has some play in it because the yoke isn't in there to center it, the amount the bolts on the engine oil pan stick out depends on how thick the aluminum casting is under the bolt and the casting thickness can vary because that bolt head surface isn't machined, etc etc. you could put the angle finder on the vibe damper of the engine I guess.
to answer your question, the trans mount pad needs to be parallel to the trans mount surface. also, it may be a good idea to assemble the whole thing and have a jack under the cross member to hold the weight of the trans against the rubber mount, otherwise the angle gets skewed when the weight of the trans crushes the rubber some. personally I always leave a bit of room there so I can shim to get the angle right. \I fab a shim from flat stock and use that under the mount, between the mount and the cross member. if you put it dead on then there is not room to work with if you have a vibration, or whatever, down the road. can you use vice grips or ratchet straps to hold things on each side frame mount while you mock up?
if you have a yoke for the trans you could slide it in and put the angle finder on that possibly, depending on how nice a fit the yoke is with the trans bushing. you would need to take the rest of the driveshaft apart to get that unless you have a spare one that will fit. maybe the driveline shop would loan one knowing that is what is keeping you from having them work on a driveshaft for you. just some thoughts.

[Matt_50]

The crossmember is inside the frame. That first pick with the jack is where I used the jack to keep things parallel. Want me to try and get it to stay parallel without jack during mock up?

I suppose the driveshaft needs to be cut anyways, and it probably woudnt hurt to replace u joints. I'll take the yoke off and try this again....

[Matt_50]

Ok dsraven I got the yoke off and I did notice the shaft has play until the yoke is seated.

I tried to find a good spot for the angle finder... No real flat spot. What ya think? I also got a socket to fit in the center and set the finder on it too.

I'm about 4-5 degrees in the pics.