Wanted: Smoothing Firewall tips, advice, pics - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Primered_69 · 11-13-2003, 07:28 PM

I am considering do this mod in the next month or so.

I would like some assistance in making my mind up the opinions of those who have done it.

*67Fleetsidedream* · 11-13-2003, 07:52 PM

What do you have as far as tools?
Welder? Air Compressor?

*Shane* · 11-13-2003, 07:54 PM

-take time to fit your "filler" panels ... don't try to fill gaps with the welder
- weld in small increments ... spot weld and then move to another area ... keeps the heat out of the metal and helps cut down warpage
- do the same thing when grinding the welds down ... if the girnd area starts to turn colors (blue-black-purple) you are grinding too much too fast ... move to another area
- spread filler
- drink beer (allows time for filler to dry)
- block sand
- put on filler
- drink another beer (see above note)
- block sand
- put on more filler
- drink a beer
- block sand
- put on more filler
- so forth and so on until area is as flat as desired

Hope this helps ... the welding and grinding are just the beginning ... its the block sanding that makes all the difference.

Primered_69 · 11-13-2003, 07:57 PM

I have all sorts of air tools. I am going to do all the stuff except the actual welding. I haveno welder so I will farm that out.

Primered_69 · 11-13-2003, 07:59 PM

How much gap should I have in the panel and cab? Should they be a snug fit or do I need to have some room for expansion? What gauge metal should I use?

RACING29 · 11-13-2003, 09:24 PM

18 gauge

Primered_69 · 11-13-2003, 10:09 PM

Now I know the gauge what about the gap between the patch panel and cab

slogo · 11-13-2003, 10:48 PM

make the filler panels fit snug

FuelCellGuy · 11-13-2003, 10:52 PM

here's a pic of mine right after I finished the last blocking stage. Notice the lack of a speaker grill on the dash. Couldn't resist.

TEXAS 68 · 11-13-2003, 11:07 PM

I like shane's advice,DRINK BEER!!!

Slammed67 · 11-13-2003, 11:30 PM

Here are some pics of mine. Follow Shane's advice, but drink more beer

Pre-filler.......

After paint......

photoglg · 11-14-2003, 12:33 AM

Dumb question "where does the heater go"

Primered_69 · 11-14-2003, 01:01 AM

Well i plan to go aftermarket a/c so you smooth it and then put a bulk head in to allow the lines to go in.

photoglg · 11-14-2003, 01:03 AM

That's cool and I like the beer deal

*Shane* · 11-14-2003, 01:22 AM

As far as the gap ... I usually leave about 1/32" (.031) all the way around ... that way the weld can penetrate BOTH peices of metal and you can then grind it flush.

As far as the grinding. Don't use your 4" side grinder witha 36 grit stone on it for your finish grinding. Use it to knock down the "high spots" and then switch to something like a 50 grit PAPER/RESIN type disk that goes in an air tool. Use it sparingly .. .then switch to something along the lines of an 80 grit. Work your way up to around 120 grit and you shouldnt have too much problem with "gouges" left by the grinder. It also helps to cut down on the heat. Remember .... HEAT IS BAD ... it causes warpage. Less gouges and less warpage equals less filler.

P.S. - Don't forget the beer ... HEAT IS BAD & the beer helps to keep YOU cool!

Here is a pic of mine after paint ... sorry, no before pics. I didn't smooth the spot welds or the driver's side ... although I wish I had now.

Slammed67 · 11-14-2003, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Dumb question "where does the heater go"

Heater? We don't need no stinkin' heater!

jamis · 11-14-2003, 08:18 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by photoglg
Dumb question "where does the heater go"

In the garbage if you live in south Florida

11-13-2003, 07:28 PM	#1
Primered_69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 1,409	Wanted: Smoothing Firewall tips, advice, pics I am considering do this mod in the next month or so. I would like some assistance in making my mind up the opinions of those who have done it. __________________ 1969 Chevy LWB - with shaved handles; 3 1/2 front/ 5 1/2 rear drop; (waiting to be put back together)

11-13-2003, 07:57 PM	#4
Primered_69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 1,409	I have all sorts of air tools. I am going to do all the stuff except the actual welding. I haveno welder so I will farm that out. __________________ 1969 Chevy LWB - with shaved handles; 3 1/2 front/ 5 1/2 rear drop; (waiting to be put back together)

11-13-2003, 07:59 PM	#5
Primered_69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 1,409	How much gap should I have in the panel and cab? Should they be a snug fit or do I need to have some room for expansion? What gauge metal should I use? __________________ 1969 Chevy LWB - with shaved handles; 3 1/2 front/ 5 1/2 rear drop; (waiting to be put back together)

11-13-2003, 09:24 PM	#6
RACING29 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Tennessee, Morristown Posts: 355	18 gauge __________________ 1967 Chevy truck, R1 racing seats, 4 point racing harness, 4/6 drop, primered blue, soon to be shaved, 350- 060. over, flat top pistons, Eagle rods, Edelbrock Aluminum heads, 1.5 Scorpion roller rockers, Lunati 515" cam, mallory ignition, Holley 750 double pumper carb, Built 350 turbo trans, 2500-2800 boss hog stall, 20 gallon aluminum fuel cell!!!

11-13-2003, 10:09 PM	#7
Primered_69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 1,409	Now I know the gauge what about the gap between the patch panel and cab __________________ 1969 Chevy LWB - with shaved handles; 3 1/2 front/ 5 1/2 rear drop; (waiting to be put back together)

11-13-2003, 07:52 PM	#2
67Fleetsidedream Wiseass secured himself a BAN Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: MOON!!! Posts: 2,282	What do you have as far as tools? Welder? Air Compressor?

11-13-2003, 07:54 PM	#3
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	-take time to fit your "filler" panels ... don't try to fill gaps with the welder - weld in small increments ... spot weld and then move to another area ... keeps the heat out of the metal and helps cut down warpage - do the same thing when grinding the welds down ... if the girnd area starts to turn colors (blue-black-purple) you are grinding too much too fast ... move to another area - spread filler - drink beer (allows time for filler to dry) - block sand - put on filler - drink another beer (see above note) - block sand - put on more filler - drink a beer - block sand - put on more filler - so forth and so on until area is as flat as desired Hope this helps ... the welding and grinding are just the beginning ... its the block sanding that makes all the difference.

11-13-2003, 10:48 PM	#8
slogo Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Morristown,TN Posts: 481	make the filler panels fit snug

11-13-2003, 10:52 PM	#9
FuelCellGuy FUEL CELL GURU Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Mineola, Texas Posts: 993	Pic... here's a pic of mine right after I finished the last blocking stage. Notice the lack of a speaker grill on the dash. Couldn't resist. Attached Images

11-13-2003, 11:07 PM	#10
TEXAS 68 Vortec in the works Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Spring,Texas Posts: 735	I like shane's advice,DRINK BEER!!! __________________ 68? It's all figured out untill you get it apart. Is it Sunday yet??? 68 Project 68 SWB frame off/98 Vortec with stock FI/power everything. 95 ECLB 2500 with 346,000 on the clock(the original HD) 99 Lesabre-wifes ride 08 Crew Cab LTZ-All Mine 89 SWB 5/7 drop-Son's first ride.

11-13-2003, 11:30 PM	#11
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Here are some pics of mine. Follow Shane's advice, but drink more beer Pre-filler....... After paint...... __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

11-14-2003, 12:33 AM	#12
photoglg Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Oxnard, CA Posts: 143	Dumb question "where does the heater go" __________________ 1969 GMC S/B S/S 3" drop

11-14-2003, 01:01 AM	#13
Primered_69 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2002 Location: Fort Worth Posts: 1,409	Well i plan to go aftermarket a/c so you smooth it and then put a bulk head in to allow the lines to go in. __________________ 1969 Chevy LWB - with shaved handles; 3 1/2 front/ 5 1/2 rear drop; (waiting to be put back together)

11-14-2003, 01:03 AM	#14
photoglg Registered User Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Oxnard, CA Posts: 143	That's cool and I like the beer deal __________________ 1969 GMC S/B S/S 3" drop

11-14-2003, 01:22 AM	#15
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	As far as the gap ... I usually leave about 1/32" (.031) all the way around ... that way the weld can penetrate BOTH peices of metal and you can then grind it flush. As far as the grinding. Don't use your 4" side grinder witha 36 grit stone on it for your finish grinding. Use it to knock down the "high spots" and then switch to something like a 50 grit PAPER/RESIN type disk that goes in an air tool. Use it sparingly .. .then switch to something along the lines of an 80 grit. Work your way up to around 120 grit and you shouldnt have too much problem with "gouges" left by the grinder. It also helps to cut down on the heat. Remember .... HEAT IS BAD ... it causes warpage. Less gouges and less warpage equals less filler. P.S. - Don't forget the beer ... HEAT IS BAD & the beer helps to keep YOU cool! Here is a pic of mine after paint ... sorry, no before pics. I didn't smooth the spot welds or the driver's side ... although I wish I had now. Attached Images



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