Newb with 52 Pick up

[RedChev52]

Hey, I inherited a 52 Chevy Pick-up from my Dad. He did a mostly to stock restoration. I'm looking forward to driving this baby around town a bit and getting to know how it operates.

Anyway, after it sitting about 3 years I did get it started. So I have some of what are probably really stupid questions:

1. Is there a way to check the oil level? I haven't seen anything that looks like a dipstick.
2. Is there anything I should keep an eye out for that I don't accidentally screw up as I'm working on it?

Thanks!

[mr48chev]

Welcome to the board and the group.

The dipstick on the "stock" engine for that truck should be on the passenger side below the distributor and in front of the starter.

A copy of the factory service manual for a 52 would be a good investment as it gives easy to follow instructions for most every repair you might do on the truck in simple language. Like this one on Amazon. They also have new ones listed. Or you can find them on Ebay or though most of the truck trinket vendors. https://www.amazon.com/1948-53-Chevr...14HW4QS1Y7VKPS

You can find most of the factory specifications here https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...olet-Truck.pdf you may have to sort though it a bit but it gives the details on a lot of things straight from the factory.

One thing that several of the guys will suggest is making sure that the brakes are up to snuff before drivng it. That most likely will include going though the hydraulic side of it to make sure that the brakes are in top working order.
I'd also suggest emptying out any old gas that might be in and checking over the fuel system.

[RedChev52]

Thanks, this is exactly what I'm looking for. Just have no clue where to start. I did have brakes on my to do list.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by RedChev52

Thanks, this is exactly what I'm looking for. Just have no clue where to start. I did have brakes on my to do list.

You plan on rebuilding the stock brakes?

Brian

[RedChev52]

Don't know yet. Just feeling it out to be honest.

Brake pedal went completely to the floor when I first got it. Opened up the master cylinder and it looked pretty dry in there. So added some Dot3 got a pedal back, but I did just enough to safely get it on the trailer and then unloaded into the garage. But I haven't yet pulled off the wheels to see what's going on in there, or taken the time to bleed them properly and check for leaks.

I'm pretty sure it's the stock brakes. My dad wasn't one for upgrades unless he couldn't find another way.

[MiraclePieCo]

That's a beauty. Quite a contrast from some of the starter projects we sometimes see on this forum.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by RedChev52

Thanks, this is exactly what I'm looking for. Just have no clue where to start. I did have brakes on my to do list.

The Rule of Thumb is:

1. Make it Stop
2. Make it Go
3. Make it Cool

Well, yours is already cool. Personally I wouldn’t do too much other than clean the hell out of it, polish it. If it’s been sitting three years you should drain the fluids and change the filters jus to be certain. Gas in carburetor bowls MIGHT be gummy, same in gas tank. But 3 years isn’t that long. Maybe I’d go with black wall tires or you could go back to stock steel wheels or mag wheels - but that’s just me.

Great looking truck. Congrats!

[Volfandt]

Looks like he stayed close to stock and did a frame off restoration.
From the pics it looks like he did a very good job in all aspects.

I'll swag the engine is a 235 (or possibly a 261) but either is good, with a 1bbl Rochester carb, oil bath air cleaner and a generator.
With that combo you can comfortably cruise in traffic at 60 mph and in bumper to bumper. If he upgraded the rearend ratio from 4:11 to 3:55 you'll comfortably cruise at 65/70 on the interstates.

Based on the pics it wouldn't be a stretch to say there's some serious $$$'s he invested in restoring that truck.

Needless to say, if it were mine I'd do like previously stated to clean and wax it up, change the fluids, go through the brake system and find where the fluid leaked out, repair it then enjoy cruising it as is.

[MARTINSR]

Absolutely! Go over the brakes and make sure they are working properly and drive it with a smile on your face!

If I had that baby, it would be my daily driver just as it is!

Brian

[mongocanfly]

Welcome....as you might guess, we need pictures.....

[RedChev52]

Oh yes. I was going to do that but needed to figure out how to post them here.

Here you go:

[joedoh]

good googly moogly what a beauty

[lv2tri2]

You got a nice one.

[Volfandt]

Thats a VERY NICE truck. Post some pics of the engine bay and if you can underneath of the tranny and rear. It's very evident your Dad put alot of work in that truck and from the pics he did a very good job.
It would be good to know if the drivetrain is still stock or been modified to further help you.
Is the brake master cylinder a single reservoir under the drivers side floor board or is it a more modern dual reservoir type?

[RedChev52]

One master cylinder found in a hole just under the floor board of the driver.

I am defiantly the starter in this situation, not the truck. I'm not a complete stranger to turning a few wrenches but Jeeps was my thing and certainly not this old.

Yeah this is one of about 7 antique cars he had more or less completed. And other 6 that were in various states of repair. It was really his life.

From what "experts" have told me when selling others he did mostly a really great job on them. A few details he missed on originality. They just weren't maintained properly the last 5 or so years as his health declined.

I'll be away from the house all day today. But I'll post some more pics of engine and drive train.

[my56chevytruck]

Hello and welcome to the forum. WOW, isn't word enough for a starter truck, you got a good looking ride. by the way, when you add brake fluid to a dry reservoir, I'd seriously suggest bleeding the lines before you head out cruisin. food for thought.

[Driver_WT]

Very nice condition. I hope my truck looks like that when it is finished.

Wade

[RedChev52]

More photos!

[RedChev52]

Questions for you guys. I seem to have a fuel leak right by the carb. I noticed the brass nut fitting had a crack in it, so I replaced that, but still leaking. The fitting that attaches directly to the carb seems to have standard 1/4 on the line side and the treads look slightly smaller and tighter on the carb side.

The leak seems to be coming from the carb attached side.

Were this water, my next move would be to put some plumber tape around the treads. But being gas, that doesn't seem like a great idea.

I was going to replace the fitting directly on the carb but local hardware doesn't seem to have one that looks just like it with the slightly smaller carb side.

Any ideas on where I might pick one up? Is this even the right way to attache the fuel line? Seems a little janky way of doing it to me.

[Volfandt]

Try yellow teflon tape for fuel.
Those Rochester B model carbs are known to sweat condensation especially before the engine reaches operating temps. Especially when fresh cold fuel is pumped into them.
Are you absolutely sure is gas and not condensation (water)?
Good luck
Dave

[RedChev52]

It's possible it's condensation. I notice it "leaking" before I even ran it much. It looked kind of honey colored so at first I though it was just a bit of oil from the air filter bath that ran down.

Yesterday I drove it around the block a few times and noticed where I wiped it off was back looking kind of wet and a little oily, and the rag smelled of gas after I wiped it down. And was wet enough it was dripping on to the exhaust manifold. I just wasn't cool with gas dripping on to that so decide to investigate.

I'll try and find some of that fuel teflon tape and let you know how it goes.

[Volfandt]

Don't fret when you've got to work out some bugs with an old truck. The fact you're taking it on a test drive speaks volumes, in a good way.

I use yellow teflon tape for all my gas/fuel connections anymore. I've got around 22K miles on my 49 with a Rochester B carb and so far no gas leaks but it'll sweat condensation around the top and base until it warms up.

As an aside, I recently swapped out the fuel tank in another AD, a 49 GMC. It was full of decades of rust. I emptied the last couple gals in it into a 5 gal bucket and set it aside. Within a couple hrs the sides of the bucket were wet and it looked like it was leaking gas out the bottom. When I checked it, it wasn't gas but condensation. The gas was cold but the inside of my shop was hot and humid and it made that bucket condense H2O. The fuel being pumped from the tank to the carb is also cold.
Just an FYI.

Don't expect modern performance out of your truck. Part of it's charm is that it'll take you back in time to a place where you had to not only operate it but also know its limitations. It wasn't designed for speed or MPG, it's a truck designed with work foremost and comfort secondary. It'll haul a 1/2 ton of cargo just as well on paved roads as gravel and dirt ones.
It's steering will give you more enjoyment than dead lifting weights LOL...
Dave

[RedChev52]

It was leaking gas... swapped out the fittings and it's all good now. Couple more questions:

1. Starter gear teeth seems to occasionally not hit the fly wheel making spin grind noise. From youtube videos I've seen that doesn't seem to be uncommon. Is there any tips to help with this not happening as much? Or is that another thing that you kind of have to live with? When I first got it I thought I had fried the starter because of that sound.

2. My driver's side seems to sit about an inch lower than the passenger. Just lost some spring there?

3. See attached photos. Any idea what this is? My guess is it's a broken knob for a fan speed. Sits just to the left of the steering column. When the key is on, it's drawing power and the metal in it gets hot as hell. Made the mistake of touching the top of the exposed nut after a drive. I decided it's best just to disconnect it for now.

Thanks!

[GreasyLikeaBurger]

That looks like an old style resistor. Thats why it was getting hot. It looks like your truck is 12volt? It might have been added for that reason. Keep an eye on other components that might get hot.

[Volfandt]

Good deal on the fuel fix.

Agree w/GLAburger, it's a resistor and they do get hot. If your electrics are 12v they've
been upgraded from the stock 6v. And if so I'll bet something isn't working now with it disconnected.
You'll need a resistor for:
1) gas gauge. The OEM gas gauge works on 6v only. Generally this resistor is mounted directly on the gauges power connector.
2) heater fan. the OEM 6v fan will work with 12v with a resistor. The fan speed control will be a separate device.
3) Dash lights. If he used the OEM 6v lamps.
4) ignition circuit/coil, this resistor is generally mounted in the engine bay close to the coil.
5) theres other uses but generally it's better to swap out all your 6v devices to 12v.