Stall converter questions

[Willie G]

Hello, I'm running an LQ9 bored over.030, Z06 cam and springs. Around 425HP, 4L65e rebuilt , I have a posi rear, 3.73 gears. This will be 2 to 3 day a week driver. I've been told i should get a 2500 stall converter, but i am unsure if i even need one. those of you who have experience please advise. Thanks

[1971Stepside]

From what I have been told and researched, you do need a bigger stall. I went with the Stage IV BTR cam and springs on my LQ4 and BTR recommended the 3000 - 3200 stall for mine. At Stage II they wanted me to run the 2500 stall.

[Rickysnickers]

The cam you are running also is a factor in deciding what torque convertor you choose to install. Since your post says you have a Z06 cam, I would call a couple of different torque convertor manufacturers and get their opinions on what they would recommend.

[Tork?]

You won't need a higher stall running that cam I think it's 117lsa. But it would move out with one in there! I think stock stall was around 16-1800. I put a Yank ss3800 in my 99 Trans Am with 3.73, exhaust, stock cam, and 26" drag radials. After a week of driving it felt normal and after I went back to stock I really missed it. For perspective on performance difference, changing to stall and 3.73 took it from 2.1 60' 8.6 at 85mph to 1.58 60' 7.8 at 88mph at my local 1/8th mile. Best part was how it raised the shift extension so it stayed in high rpms between shifts instead of falling on its face. Actually here's a video you can see how high it flashed and didn't drop below 5k on the shifts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuWK7UxwZ8Q

Imo a 3200 is the perfect blend of daily driver function with ability to let it eat out of the hole and on a roll. Call the reputable companies that have been around LS engines since the start like Yank, Circle D, FTI, PTC I bet they tell you 3k minimum and that most people wish they went bigger. A good tune to reduce torque management and make it lockup early and you're gold. Once locked it drives like stock i think mine locked at 37-40mph in 4th.

[davepl]

Put it this way - when you stand on the throttle, the RPM will flash to some point, like 1500 with a stock converter or 2500 with an aftermarket, and you want your cam to be somewhere at least close to its working range.

If your cam works at 2500, and most stock LS cams sure would, then you don't need a converter. But if your cam is sleepy until 3500, then yeah, you do (though I'd change the cam in that case!)

[Super73]

It's all about goals and wants.

I used to have a 347" motor that had a 243/250 @ 0.050" running a stock converter. It had 3.73's and a 28" tall tire and a 4L80E. Did it drive around fine? Yes.. But the lack of bottom end due to the cam it felt very slow until it came on the cam at 5,500ish rpm.

Stepped to a 3,200 verter and it was better but still only cut 1.89 60's

Stuck a 4,900 verter in it with a 30" tire and went low 1.60's 60's.

Put a 150hp n20 kit on it and went high 1.40's 60' but the converter now flashed 6,100rpm due to the added TQ.


Recently put a 408" with stock LS6 heads/cam in my brother in law's extended cab 4x4. It also has an 80e in it now with a stock converter. It drove around my 2015 Duramax.

[Willie G]

well, just looking at a dependable daily that gets decent gas mileage, and move when I want ot to. Responsive.