Last time, is a C-notch really necessary? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

pat · 11-24-2003, 02:14 PM

Im going to drop my truck 5 inches in the rear with 3" drop springs and 2" lowering blocks. Do I need to get it notched or not? I plan on doing all the suspension this winter break so Im trying to find out. I probably wont ever haul anything more than a smoker or a bumper trailer.
Thanks

68 chevy half ton

BaggedC10 · 11-24-2003, 02:22 PM

You don't have to. You'll wish you did though because it will bottom-out allot.

PrimeredThunder · 11-24-2003, 02:23 PM

It shouldn't be a problem if you arent hauling any heavy loads. I know most companies sell a 4/6 drop without the notch. It isn't neccesary, but its nice to have the extra clearance.

kenny

ShamrockCustoms · 11-24-2003, 06:31 PM

test it out. remove the leaf springs from their mounts. lower the rear by the 5". now look at your rear axle tube. you should have a minimum of 3" clearance between the axle tube and the frame. if less, i would recommend getting the notch........

pbmcauliffe · 11-24-2003, 07:06 PM

I just put 2 inch blocks in the back of mine with 4" springs w/o a c-notch, and it bangs the frame quite a bit. At rest I only have a bit over 1" between the axle and frame.

phantom dually · 11-24-2003, 07:24 PM

A c notch is very cheap now. Pull the bed and bolt the notch in or weld it. Really easy and straight forward.

Izzy · 11-24-2003, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by phantom dually
A c notch is very cheap now. Pull the bed and bolt the notch in or weld it. Really easy and straight forward.

You can pick up a bolt on C notch from http://www.***************** that is identical to a Western Chassis for $44.

grnddwn · 11-24-2003, 08:36 PM

Buy a kidney belt instead and you won't have to pull your bed

pat · 11-25-2003, 02:21 AM

Thanks for the input everyone. Is there an obvious place to put it on the frame, like lining it up with the axle?

fiveeightchevy, I was looking at that c-notch and it looks flat, if i remember right i think that the frames on 68s are angled right in that area?.... am i wrong?

I guess Ill go ahead and get a kit soon.

Tx Firefighter · 11-25-2003, 02:25 AM

Mine has 6 inch drop springs in it. No c-notch,

Last weekend, I hauled a 454 big block and turbo 400 tranny in the bed for over 100 miles. It did not bottom out once.

jamis · 11-25-2003, 10:30 AM

The $44 dollar c-notch from suicide doors wont work on a 67-72.
The flat plate c-notch wont work on these years, because the frame has too many angles in that area. I made my own and then boxed it in. But if I had to do it again I would spend the $150 on the pre fab ones

I have 5" springs and 2" blocks and did the c-notch. I dont know yet if I need the notch, but since I'm doing a frame off, I decided to do it just in case I want to go lower later.

sactoC10 · 11-25-2003, 11:48 AM

Similar to you, I have 3" springs and blocks but only 1.5" of block drop. I've never banged the frame, but then I don't haul anything in it other than a cooler, groceries, parts, etc... I too am thinking about a C notch, simply so I don't have to always be concerned about banging the frame.

Seems to be a simple thing to do.

**N2TRUX** · 11-25-2003, 12:04 PM

I guess the 73-87 guys forgot about the 67-72 frame in being different in the rear. No, the $49 notch won't work, but McGaughys has one for $119. Check it out....

pat · 11-25-2003, 01:45 PM

Thanks everyone.
One more ?. Am I going to need an adjustable track bar or anything like that?

pbmcauliffe · 11-25-2003, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tx Firefighter
Mine has 6 inch drop springs in it. No c-notch,

Last weekend, I hauled a 454 big block and turbo 400 tranny in the bed for over 100 miles. It did not bottom out once.

How much space do you have between the frame and axle?
The only way I could haul a BB and tranny w/o banging the frame is because the frame would be on the axle already

So either I have soft springs, you have stiff springs, or I have more than 4" dropped springs (in truck when got it)

LowSeventy · 11-25-2003, 02:22 PM

I have hauled numerous heavy loads with my 6" drop Ealry Classic kit and never bottomed out yet. I asked them when I bought th kit if I needed to C-notch the frame and they said not to do it. Stan there told me if I take my rear coils out and set the frame down on the axle tubes, that there would only be a little over an inch of clearance before the rear end the bed floor. He said it's even worse with a wood floor, something like 3/4". I don't know how these guys are notching their frames without raising up their bed floors. Any input?

pat · 11-25-2003, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LowSeventy
I have hauled numerous heavy loads with my 6" drop Ealry Classic kit and never bottomed out yet. I asked them when I bought th kit if I needed to C-notch the frame and they said not to do it. Stan there told me if I take my rear coils out and set the frame down on the axle tubes, that there would only be a little over an inch of clearance before the rear end the bed floor. He said it's even worse with a wood floor, something like 3/4". I don't know how these guys are notching their frames without raising up their bed floors. Any input?

I think you might be thinking about step notches versus c-notches maybe....
http://www.*****************/index2.html

jamis · 11-25-2003, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by LowSeventy
I have hauled numerous heavy loads with my 6" drop Ealry Classic kit and never bottomed out yet. I asked them when I bought th kit if I needed to C-notch the frame and they said not to do it. Stan there told me if I take my rear coils out and set the frame down on the axle tubes, that there would only be a little over an inch of clearance before the rear end the bed floor. He said it's even worse with a wood floor, something like 3/4". I don't know how these guys are notching their frames without raising up their bed floors. Any input?

the c-notch only gives you another 2 inches, I layed the axle in the notch and I dont think I will have problems with the bed floor because the cross sills set the floor higher then the frame itself. But I wont know for sure till I get that far on my project. But when I had that problem with my 78(built it 12 years ago) which had a flip and 2" blocks and a c-notch, I had to build a box for the diff. pumpkin to clear.

Tx Firefighter · 11-25-2003, 04:08 PM

Like Lowseventy, I have Early Classics 6 inch rear springs.

It all depends on the spring. My last truck had Eibach brand 4 inch springs in it for awhile. It would bottom out when hitting bumps going down the road. This was with KYB shocks too. I replaced them with Early Classic 4 inchers and never bottomed it again as long as I owned the truck.

Here's my clearance now, with a 6 inch springs. Got tons of room for movement.

Tx Firefighter · 11-25-2003, 04:10 PM

Note in the above picture, the grime on the frame right above the axle is untouched. It's never bottomed.

LowSeventy · 11-25-2003, 04:20 PM

The bed cross sills raise the floor except for directly above the pumpkin. On my 70 fleetside, the bedfloor sets right on the frame above the rear end. Additionally, the upper shock crossmember will interfere with the snout of the rearend.

pbmcauliffe · 11-25-2003, 04:21 PM

Looking at your picture I can see that you have alot more room than I have. I wonder if the previous owner used something other than 4" springs, because with whatever springs are in there, and a 2" block, the axle is only about 1" away from the frame.

SCOTI · 11-25-2003, 05:54 PM

Dang guys.... I estimated my 68's rear drop @ 6-7" but after looking @ TxFirefighters pic, either I'm more than 7 or he's less than 6.

At typical ride height @ 30-35psi, the top of my rear end housing sits just inside the c-notch in the framerail.

Hotrod70C10 · 11-26-2003, 03:14 AM

Looks like a 6" drop on tx firefighter's truck to me. Mine looks to be about 2 inches higher than that and I have a set of 4" springs.

pbmcauliffe · 11-26-2003, 08:12 PM

[Thread hijack on]
Okay, if TxFF's is a six inch drop and has a good amount of room between the axle and frame, any ideas of how much drop mine is. The previous owner said it had 4" McGaughys springs, then I added 2" blocks so it should be 6" total, but like I stated earlier I only have an inch between axle and frame, any ideas why such a difference.
Rear tires are 275s on 10" rim @32psi
[Thread hijack off]

11-24-2003, 02:14 PM	#1
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	Last time, is a C-notch really necessary? Im going to drop my truck 5 inches in the rear with 3" drop springs and 2" lowering blocks. Do I need to get it notched or not? I plan on doing all the suspension this winter break so Im trying to find out. I probably wont ever haul anything more than a smoker or a bumper trailer. Thanks 68 chevy half ton __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

11-24-2003, 02:22 PM	#2
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	You don't have to. You'll wish you did though because it will bottom-out allot. __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

11-24-2003, 02:23 PM	#3
PrimeredThunder Back from the Dead Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Salem, Oregon Posts: 522	It shouldn't be a problem if you arent hauling any heavy loads. I know most companies sell a 4/6 drop without the notch. It isn't neccesary, but its nice to have the extra clearance. kenny __________________ The only Carb that matters to me is the one under my hood! Salem, Oregon

11-24-2003, 07:24 PM	#6
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	A c notch is very cheap now. Pull the bed and bolt the notch in or weld it. Really easy and straight forward. __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

11-25-2003, 02:21 AM	#9
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	Thanks for the input everyone. Is there an obvious place to put it on the frame, like lining it up with the axle? fiveeightchevy, I was looking at that c-notch and it looks flat, if i remember right i think that the frames on 68s are angled right in that area?.... am i wrong? I guess Ill go ahead and get a kit soon. __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

11-24-2003, 06:31 PM	#4
ShamrockCustoms Project56 on hold Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Burleson, TX Posts: 489	test it out. remove the leaf springs from their mounts. lower the rear by the 5". now look at your rear axle tube. you should have a minimum of 3" clearance between the axle tube and the frame. if less, i would recommend getting the notch........

11-24-2003, 07:06 PM	#5
pbmcauliffe Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Bremerton, WA. Posts: 104	I just put 2 inch blocks in the back of mine with 4" springs w/o a c-notch, and it bangs the frame quite a bit. At rest I only have a bit over 1" between the axle and frame.

11-24-2003, 08:36 PM	#8
grnddwn belly dragger Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: sherwood park AB. Canada Posts: 694	Buy a kidney belt instead and you won't have to pull your bed

11-25-2003, 02:25 AM	#10
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Mine has 6 inch drop springs in it. No c-notch, Last weekend, I hauled a 454 big block and turbo 400 tranny in the bed for over 100 miles. It did not bottom out once. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

11-25-2003, 10:30 AM	#11
jamis F.A.S.T. president Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Florida Posts: 1,883	The $44 dollar c-notch from suicide doors wont work on a 67-72. The flat plate c-notch wont work on these years, because the frame has too many angles in that area. I made my own and then boxed it in. But if I had to do it again I would spend the $150 on the pre fab ones I have 5" springs and 2" blocks and did the c-notch. I dont know yet if I need the notch, but since I'm doing a frame off, I decided to do it just in case I want to go lower later. Last edited by jamis; 11-25-2003 at 11:02 AM.

11-25-2003, 11:48 AM	#12
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,055	Similar to you, I have 3" springs and blocks but only 1.5" of block drop. I've never banged the frame, but then I don't haul anything in it other than a cooler, groceries, parts, etc... I too am thinking about a C notch, simply so I don't have to always be concerned about banging the frame. Seems to be a simple thing to do.

11-25-2003, 12:04 PM	#13
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	I guess the 73-87 guys forgot about the 67-72 frame in being different in the rear. No, the $49 notch won't work, but McGaughys has one for $119. Check it out....

11-25-2003, 01:45 PM	#14
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	Thanks everyone. One more ?. Am I going to need an adjustable track bar or anything like that? __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

11-25-2003, 02:22 PM	#16
LowSeventy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 67	I have hauled numerous heavy loads with my 6" drop Ealry Classic kit and never bottomed out yet. I asked them when I bought th kit if I needed to C-notch the frame and they said not to do it. Stan there told me if I take my rear coils out and set the frame down on the axle tubes, that there would only be a little over an inch of clearance before the rear end the bed floor. He said it's even worse with a wood floor, something like 3/4". I don't know how these guys are notching their frames without raising up their bed floors. Any input?

11-25-2003, 04:08 PM	#19
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Like Lowseventy, I have Early Classics 6 inch rear springs. It all depends on the spring. My last truck had Eibach brand 4 inch springs in it for awhile. It would bottom out when hitting bumps going down the road. This was with KYB shocks too. I replaced them with Early Classic 4 inchers and never bottomed it again as long as I owned the truck. Here's my clearance now, with a 6 inch springs. Got tons of room for movement. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin



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11-25-2003, 04:10 PM	#20
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Note in the above picture, the grime on the frame right above the axle is untouched. It's never bottomed. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

11-25-2003, 04:20 PM	#21
LowSeventy Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Pasadena, CA Posts: 67	The bed cross sills raise the floor except for directly above the pumpkin. On my 70 fleetside, the bedfloor sets right on the frame above the rear end. Additionally, the upper shock crossmember will interfere with the snout of the rearend.

11-25-2003, 04:21 PM	#22
pbmcauliffe Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Bremerton, WA. Posts: 104	Looking at your picture I can see that you have alot more room than I have. I wonder if the previous owner used something other than 4" springs, because with whatever springs are in there, and a 2" block, the axle is only about 1" away from the frame.

11-25-2003, 05:54 PM	#23
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	Dang guys.... I estimated my 68's rear drop @ 6-7" but after looking @ TxFirefighters pic, either I'm more than 7 or he's less than 6. At typical ride height @ 30-35psi, the top of my rear end housing sits just inside the c-notch in the framerail. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.* Last edited by SCOTI; 11-26-2003 at 02:09 PM.

11-26-2003, 03:14 AM	#24
Hotrod70C10 Low & Slow Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 1,047	Looks like a 6" drop on tx firefighter's truck to me. Mine looks to be about 2 inches higher than that and I have a set of 4" springs. __________________ 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside 4.5/6 drop

11-26-2003, 08:12 PM	#25
pbmcauliffe Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Bremerton, WA. Posts: 104	[Thread hijack on] Okay, if TxFF's is a six inch drop and has a good amount of room between the axle and frame, any ideas of how much drop mine is. The previous owner said it had 4" McGaughys springs, then I added 2" blocks so it should be 6" total, but like I stated earlier I only have an inch between axle and frame, any ideas why such a difference. Rear tires are 275s on 10" rim @32psi [Thread hijack off] Attached Images

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