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04-03-2019, 07:20 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Portsmouth ri
Posts: 363
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Aftermarket trailing arm and rear sway bar
Looking at upgrading my trailing arms and adding rear sway bar on my LS powered C10 suburban. Looking at the ECE trailing arms, whats everyone's experience? Also does a rear sway bar worth the $$?
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04-05-2019, 10:16 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,066
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Re: Aftermarket trailing arm and rear sway bar
Why do you need to upgrade the T/A's? Is there something wrong w/them?
Factory T/A's work just fine as is. If you want to upgrade, change the front bushing to something that reduces flex & has less bind than the factory rubber bushing. Some small lengths of stitch welds to ensure they can't come apart doesn't hurt or partial plating like the 3/4 ton trucks got (they used the same arms, they were just partially plated from the factory). Switching to solid, tubular (square or round) T/A construction w/a poly bushing up front will stiffen things up. It will also cause binding faster than the OE set-up would since there's no ability to flex like the suspension design was intended to do.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
04-05-2019, 10:22 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Portsmouth ri
Posts: 363
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Re: Aftermarket trailing arm and rear sway bar
My factory ones have quite a bit of rust in them and are splitting apart. One of axle bolt tubes on the driver's side is rotted through. Not sure of I can salvage them otherwise welding some plates top and bottom would help.
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04-05-2019, 10:37 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 22,066
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Re: Aftermarket trailing arm and rear sway bar
Then new aftermarket seems a solid choice if you can't find used replacements somewhere. If switching to a solid tubular type of construction, make sure to use a front bushing that allows movement/articulation (some type of spherical joint).
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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