Grease recommendations - removal and application

[msg]

I have the upper and lower control arm shafts sandblasted and painted and thought to remove the gunk that is on the seals and endcaps and start fresh with new grease. I tried purple power and a brush and not a whole lotta luck, this is thick stuff.

Whats the best way to remove the existing grease and gunk and shine them up maybe?

The ball joints Ill just replace with new, but I will be needing to put some grease in them.

Should I use the same grease for both?


Also, I have a power steering unit that I would like to spruce up.

Any recommendations on what to do...and what not to do as well?

[The Rocknrod]

What I would do is - Mineral Spirit is good, dry cleaning solvent is more refined. Any more refined my damage any seals.
Seal up the inlet/outlet of the power steering box. If it doesn't need a rebuild or replace - Clean the grease off with mineral spirit. Then wire wheel the unit clean and spray paint it.
Opinions may vary.

[bama63]

scrape off heavy stuff, spray with oven cleaner let stand and hose off, let dry and paint. works like a charm

[Captainfab]

I agree with mineral spirits, cleaning solvent. Diesel fuel works pretty good too.

[AcampoDave]

"Dawn takes grease out of your way"
GoJo waterless hand cleaner works good too. I've cleaned some nasty grease caked stuff with either of them in combination with a metal garden hose pistol and a brush. (Provided of course the parts in question can tolerate water)

[vince1]

I like to use the black grease with molybdenum disulphide in it. You won't wear out any parts using that stuff. Caterpillar recommends it.

[msg]

Thanks guys, I have mineral spirits and will try that. Ive been using some ragged out micro fiber towels and the purple power and its gonna take something stronger.


On the grease to add in once the caps and seals are cleaned, I had used this Lucas Oil xtra heavy duty grease in some ball joints I installed in another car.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ontent=general

It was recommended at the time by a local mechanic, but I was looking at the grease in these caps and its a different looking grease.

On the molybdenum disulphide, I saw this on a quick search

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...B&gclsrc=aw.ds

even this from HF

https://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lu...saAjKuEALw_wcB

[Captainfab]

For the past 5 years I have been using Lucas red n tacky grease on the fleet of semi trucks and trailers that I service. I am pleased with it and have had no failures of the greased parts.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by vince1

I like to use the black grease with molybdenum disulphide in it. You won't wear out any parts using that stuff. Caterpillar recommends it.

I use that stuff from a small tub on my wheel bearings since 1979.

[msg]

The mineral spirits worked perfect, toothbrush and 3m scrub pad and steel wool. I got them all but 1 in good shape, it was missing the fitting at the top and was pretty badly rusted inside. I kept scrubbing and the brown color of the grease turned a rusty color. Looks like I need to find a replacement now.

[Mike_The_Grad]

If you plan on cleaning up the power steering gear box you can wire wheel it the best you can. Then switch to a dremel with wire wheel attachment, or a cordless power drill with wire wheel bits. You can get em in flat, cupped, or straight styles. Then wipe it down with acetone or mineral spirits and once it dries hit it with a couple of coats of clear coat from a rattle can. I like the VHT clear coat. It's better suited to the environment where the gear box resides. That way it wont rust on you, and if you have a power steering or radiator leak it wont seep into the cast iron body of the gear box. So itll stay nice and clean longer. As far as grease for the control arm shafts goes, I used Timken wheel bearing grease when I replaced my stock arm shafts with MOOG. Comes in a tub. But any chassis/suspension grade grease will do fine. Here's a tip for reassembly. Pack the control arm shafts end caps with grease before screwing them onto the shafts. Leave the zerk fitting off until you get the end caps torqued in place, that way the excess grease will squeeze out of the end cap when you screw them on. Then install the zerk afterwards. That's how I did mine and I haven't had to grease them since I installed them a few months ago.
Also, if you haven't already I would upgrade your lower control arm shaft u bolts to the bigger 9/16" ones from the later year pickups. Dorman part #13503 available at AutoZone $10 for a set of 2. Need 2 sets. Also need to drill out the crossmember u bolt holes to 9/16" and they slide right in. Bigger,stronger,better.