47-55.1 Installing door sound deadening material

[51 3600]

Gonna start installing some sound deadening material to the inside of the outer door skins. I've removed all the window and handle hardware so door interiors are empty. Could use some tips/tricks on putting mat type material inside the door. (I was gonna ask for an easy way but doubt that exists.)

[sack54]

Well it will have to be cut into strips about 5 to ten inches wide. This is done for easy handling. Next put the pieces in the freezer for 10 mins. or so, this helps to place the pieces in the door without sticking, once in place start to push in place then roll done next strip time . I did both sides of my doors . No more tin sound,very solid. Get a good roller a short handle and a long handle to get where your arm does not reach or fit. Good luck !

[51 3600]

Thanks for the tip. Never would have thought of putting it in the freezer but makes great sense.

[Chris(NJ)]

Yea, I never heard of the freezer trick either. On this truck, I've done the passenger door successfully and half of the floorboard so far. The driver's side doesn't want to stick so well tho. I've tried wiping it down and everything. So maybe give yours a wipe down first too, just to ensure better adhesion. And definitely grab a roller. They make a big difference.

[sack54]

For areas that won't stick good, wipe down with grease and wax remover (Prep Sol ) sand with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper then wipe again. For real bad spots use a heavy duty contact cement. Let it dry for a couple of hours. Just remember it will grab the sound material fast. also you can heat the metal up with heat gun or blow dryer,while you use the roller.

[51 3600]

Good info, thank you. Got a couple rollers and figured to clean the surfaces first as best I could.

[Chris(NJ)]

Originally Posted by sack54

For areas that won't stick good, wipe down with grease and wax remover (Prep Sol ) sand with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper then wipe again. For real bad spots use a heavy duty contact cement. Let it dry for a couple of hours. Just remember it will grab the sound material fast. also you can heat the metal up with heat gun or blow dryer,while you use the roller.

Knocked this out on my driver's door this morning. I pulled the interior panel off to paint the altman latch, so I decided to use up my remaining 4 sheets of Damplifier Pro.
The upper portion of the inner door skin was sticking fine, but the lower portion had a lot of built up dirt, grease and grime. I sanded with 100 grit for what seemed like forever. Vacuumed it all up, then gave it a few good wipes with some rubbing alcohol to get any remaining oils. The damplifier stuck with no problem now! And the door sounds SO solid closing. Love these quarantine projects!

You can kind of see the black damplifier pro in the upper and lower openings of the inner door skin in this pic.....

[Fast Chevy]

What material are you using for sound deadening?
Thanks

[51 3600]

Thought about going the cheap route using the Peal & Seal stuff from Lowe's but I guess I'll spring for the Noico. Better safe than sorry. Still wondering if I have to completely cover the door surface or can just use patches on sections. After all you just have to use a few fingers on a symbol to dampen the sound, don't have to cover the whole thing.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by 51 3600

Thought about going the cheap route using the Peal & Seal stuff from Lowe's but I guess I'll spring for the Noico. Better safe than sorry. Still wondering if I have to completely cover the door surface or can just use patches on sections. After all you just have to use a few fingers on a symbol to dampen the sound, don't have to cover the whole thing.

I think it's all about what you have and what you are trying to accomplish. For me I'm going to be a bit anl about it but I'm running a blown 292 and straight cut gears in my Frankland rear end. She's going to wine. I'm even looking into acoustic glass. There is also a heat consideration. I'm running all electric A/C and want good heat insulation also. I also think you get what you pay for in this department. Thank you for your time.

[51 3600]

Thanks for the comments Mick, and I'm surprised. From what I understand from reading your posts your truck will be one hi-po machine. Racer even I thought. So sound insulation wouldn't even be on the list, added weight. AC....that surprised me even more. Guess I missed something along the way. Always enjoy reading your posts.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by 51 3600

Thanks for the comments Mick, and I'm surprised. From what I understand from reading your posts your truck will be one hi-po machine. Racer even I thought. So sound insulation wouldn't even be on the list, added weight. AC....that surprised me even more. Guess I missed something along the way. Always enjoy reading your posts.

I'll be running a duel fuel system and multiple engine management programs on direct fire ignition. Running a roots blower with 3 2bbl carbs and progressive throttle linkage gives me a lot of options. I plan on 550hp on pump gas and 750hp to 800hp on race fuel. I plan to drive the wheels off it with road trips and want to be comfortable. The idea is to drive it to the track, put on slicks and a party pulley on the blower. Switch gears in the frankland quick change, switch over to race fuel and race ignition. I think this could be done in 30 to 45 minutes by myself. Thank you for your time. Also with electric A/C and P/S there is none of that stuff on the engine.

[nvrdone]

I have abs door panels that fit from the window trim to the bottom of the door. im thinking of taking the easy way and putting the sound deadening material on the back of the abs.
any thoughts?

[mick53]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I have abs door panels that fit from the window trim to the bottom of the door. im thinking of taking the easy way and putting the sound deadening material on the back of the abs.
any thoughts?

Is there room there?

[51 3600]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I have abs door panels that fit from the window trim to the bottom of the door. im thinking of taking the easy way and putting the sound deadening material on the back of the abs.
any thoughts?

I’m sure it would help but not as much as attaching the sound deadening material to the metal surface. Steel door resonates a lot more than ABS plastic.

[Chris(NJ)]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

I have abs door panels that fit from the window trim to the bottom of the door. im thinking of taking the easy way and putting the sound deadening material on the back of the abs.
any thoughts?

What type of sound deadening material are you talking about? If you're referring to the heavy butyl rubber mats, then no. Those are intended to kill vibrations so putting them on the inside of a plastic door panel won't do much.
If you're talking about a closed cell foam or thermal insulation, then you could do that if you had the room. Those will absorb sound more than dampen it.

I think words get minced here sometimes.

It really comes down to what you're trying to accomplish. On this truck, I wanted to kill the vibrations in the door that make it sound like a tin can when you close the door. Using about 4 sheets of the self adhesive butyl rubber sheets accomplished that. On my tacoma, I wanted to silence road and air noise that was transmitted through the doors/floor/roof, so I used a multi layer and product approach.

[nvrdone]

so then if I just put the material on the inside surface that has the access holes, would that help? im not sure I want to fight with getting the material inside the door cavity.

[51 3600]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

so then if I just put the material on the inside surface that has the access holes, would that help? im not sure I want to fight with getting the material inside the door cavity.

Sure that will help. Remember, on doors you have two surfaces that can resonate, the outer door skin and the inner door surface. The outer surface will resonate more because it is one big smooth surface. The inner surface is broken up by holes, indentations, hardware mounting, etc. so it will resonate less. Sound deadening both surfaces would be optimal but the outer door surface is the primary source of resonance. And accept that I’m not a physicist nor a sound engineer, just voicing my opinion from experience and logic.

[Chris(NJ)]

Originally Posted by nvrdone

so then if I just put the material on the inside surface that has the access holes, would that help? im not sure I want to fight with getting the material inside the door cavity.

Originally Posted by 51 3600

Sure that will help. Remember, on doors you have two surfaces that can resonate, the outer door skin and the inner door surface. The outer surface will resonate more because it is one big smooth surface. The inner surface is broken up by holes, indentations, hardware mounting, etc. so it will resonate less. Sound deadening both surfaces would be optimal but the outer door surface is the primary source of resonance. And accept that I’m not a physicist nor a sound engineer, just voicing my opinion from experience and logic.

Yep, it'll help, but once you stick it on there, it doesn't come off easily...just remember that.
Do it right the first time and cut it into small pieces, take your time and place it on the inside of the door. To kill the majority of vibrations you really only need to do some at the top and bottom.
If your goal is a dead quiet ride, you're going to have to consider closing off those inner door skin holes. Sound will travel through them and any other hole. Again....gotta consider goals and expectations.

[sack54]

Not to hard to do both sides of the door, I used the one big hole and just put strips in one at a time . I got about three inches from the bottom. That's why I freeze the pieces first, makes getting them in place very easy.Just take the windows out,that's harder than the install. I used Fatman and it worked great.
No tin sound when closing the doors now, very solid sounding.