1986 K10 Short Bed Build

[aotte1]

Recent purchase of a Chevy 86’ Silverado K10 short bed.

Photos of bring home the new to us truck,1986 Chevy Silverado, K10, short bed. Stopped for food, couple of photos. Has 1980’s Centerline alu wheels with 33x12:50 tires. GMC grill is replacement.

[aotte1]

Got the truck home.

One owner until recently, second owner for a few months, then sold to us. Has life time maintenance records, receipts, owners booklets, and build sheet. Sold at Southern Chevrolet in Petersburg, Va. Truck is pretty much complete.
Mileage is 210K. The original motor is tired, along with transmission.

[aotte1]

Cleaning a little bit of fender top down to crease, about 6” down from top. Looks like original paint, black primer showing through in few spots on the truck.

[aotte1]

Not sure what long term plan is. Was not seriously looking for a truck like this at this time. We have a 1986 Chevy C10, short bed, step side.
Became aware of the K10 for sale, and being a short bed, 4WD, and high options, pretty much one owner, and mostly original, decided to buy as an opportunity.

Likely keep pretty much original, preserve along with some rust repairs. Make a nice driver.

Currently assessing condition, and fixing as a driver. Picking up parts needed for repairs.

[aotte1]

Ordered a GM Performance base crate motor, to replace tired motor.

“Engine Assembly, Crate Engine, Chevy 350, 2-Piece Rear Main Seal, Each
(Mfr. #: 12681429)”

The engine description:
“ Gen 1 5.7L crate engines are excellent entry-level performance engines for older cars, trucks, and street rods. All of the parts in these engines are brand new. These Chevrolet Performance Goodwrench 5.7L/350 c.i.d. engines have approximately 8.5:1 compression with a horsepower rating of 249 hp and 304 ft.-lbs. of torque. These crate engines have a 4.00 in. bore and a 3.48 in. stroke with 4-bolt mains and 2-piece rear main seals.

Camshaft specifications are .390 in. intake lift and .410 in. exhaust lift. The open duration is 195 degrees intake and 202 degrees exhaust at .050 in. with a 112 degree lobe separation. The cylinder heads are cast iron with 1.94 in. intake valves and 1.50 in. exhaust valves, 76cc combustion chambers, and 7-bolt style exhaust flanges. These engines include painted valve covers, oil pans, and timing covers. They are drilled for both left hand and right hand dipsticks.”

[Katrina/10]

Good choice, where did you order from?

[aotte1]

Katrina/10

Gary,
Order from Summit, when ordered they had 32 in NV, non in OH.
Read some recent posts (July/Aug) about GM coming out with new crate motor
Manufactured and assembled in MO. Price that I looked Up was MUCH higher.
Discussion was they may be discontinuing the two lower priced crate motors???
Have no knowledge if so, however, decided to purchase one now in case. All ready have one in another truck and like it. Agree it is a great deal, with a warranty. For me it is a great starting point, and can later upgrade to more torque if needed.

Thanks,
Les

[Katrina/10]

I was not aware of a new motor coming out, I may have to buy one soon, thanks!

[aotte1]

Gary,

Below is the GM description of their new 350 engine, from:

https://www.genuinegmparts.com/power...50-small-block

“ 350 ENGINE
Proudly machined and assembled in the USA.
Built in Springfield, MO, of globally sourced parts.

What's New

Cylinder head and block castings
Forged-steel crankshaft
All blocks are four-bolt main
All blocks are roller camshaft-ready
All blocks are mechanical fuel pump-capable (Gen1e has no camshaft eccentric)
Machined using state-of-the-art CNC
Machined and assembled in the USA
Three engine variants: Gen1 (P/N 12691671), Gen1e LD (P/N 12691673), and Gen1e HD (P/N 12691672)

What’s Included

All-new, non-remanufactured engine assembly
New valve covers, oil pan, timing cover, and harmonic balancer for convenient installation
End-of-line torque-to-turn, compression, and oil-pressure testing.”

You can search on on part number “ Gen1 (P/N 12691671)“ for price.

[aotte1]

My friend David in KS, found a gauge cluster with tach in a 87’ big grain truck for me. Appears to be in good condition, just a little dust. Double lucky for me it is the same style that came in 1/2 to 1 ton trucks. It also has 80 psi oil gauge (note: as per forum information, 80 psi gauge takes a different sending unit, GM part no longer serviced, need to use a “Standard” part.). The good news is this style of gauges with tach and gas gauge in lower left, has more parts available. Board member Ray has been helping me learn how to repair, install, and get any needed parts. Photos below are installed in big truck and removed taken by David. No cleaning yet, still has original KS dust. Plan is to clean/refurbish per forum suggestions. Likely need a replacement printed circuit.

Plan to post more information Ray provided.

[aotte1]

One more photo.

[aotte1]

Cleaning some of the underside/certain parts of engine bay in preparation of installing power train soon. A few photos of cleaning underway, more to go. Truck has been in storage, bring home to clean, in this great spring weather we are having during winter. These photos are of 2nd day of cleaning. Firewall will get compounded to bring out color.

[LT7A]

Man, we're ready for some spring weather here, got a little taste of it today. Good work on the cleaning, and the truck is looking nice. That's a pretty nice gauge setup that you have. Looks like it's primed for a little bit of tlc, but will sure be nice when you are done. I'm jealous.

[aotte1]

LT7A,
A lot late, thanks for reply!

Les

[aotte1]

Decided to go with a Chevrolet Performance crate motor “350 HO 330HP” long block, for repowering. Getting back on this project recently.
Photos of engine and intake manifold using. Additional photos of engine parts to follow.
Les

[aotte1]

Engine preparing for install, progress over the last few days. Need to rotate photos, working on it. Building different distributor WO/ vac advance this weekend. Engine needs a little more work, before ready to install. The trans and transfer case are rebuilt. Will install them once engine in in and running. More detailed photos of top of engine once new MSD distributor rebuilt WO/ vac advance, and completed revisions. Note: revisions needed from these photos.

Serpentine belt set up is from 1994 truck, fellow forum member provided the belt set up, and I reconditioned using ceramic black coating.

Les

[aotte1]

Transfer Case Detailed

The transfer case was rebuilt by a shop, and then spent large parts of two days detailing the aluminum case out side. Mostly done, still have non aluminum parts to finish. Case was partially cleaned by shop. Their was harden oxidation/debris on the out side especially along sharp angles in the case. Removal of these hard areas was by sanding block ( think 120 grit) in open areas, and smaller sand paper in enclosed areas ( lots of time). Did further cleaning and polishing, followed by wash with 409 cleaner. Not perfect, however, a lot more presentable.
Finally clear coated with satin clear.
Note: The number 316 hand written on TC is the truck build number on firewall.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

Very nice... I've always been a fan of 4x4 swb's...

[aotte1]

Powerbychevy,
Thanks for complement, slow getting back, a little health issue. Hope tomorrow to finish front axle gear change.
Les

[aotte1]

FRONT AXLE GEAR CHANGE TO 4:10

Turned truck around on lift and started taking left side apart to get axle out.
One suggestion, not sure if necessary, recommend mark spindle rotation position to knuckle, keeps alignment same once back together. NOTE: you may find circular alignment shim between the spindle/knuckle, definitely mark their rotation position to the knuckle. The thickness varies around their circumference as an alignment adjustment. Suggest research this before taking apart, to fully understand their purpose. Will highlight in later photo, left side had none, right side did.

Third photo manual locking hub cap removed. Used a new kit to replace screws, seals, and locking rings in the manual hub.
Forth photo taken apart down to the spindle, keeping parts in order of removal.
Fifth photo spindle removed from knuckle, removal can be hard, careful not to damage parts using force. Lubricated connection circumference with penetrating oil. The knuckle has two small recessed areas on circumference. Used my air hammer with chisel attachment to vibrate connect at these two recessed areas vs forcing apart.

[aotte1]

Right side axle removal.
First photo show spindle nut removal tool needed, along with yellow arrow pointing to recessed ares on knuckle.
Photo two show alignment shim, will high light soon.
Third, shows some of tools used.
Forth, carrier removed and pinion bearing race needs to be removed. The carrier in this case was extreamly tight, removal needed lots of force. Likely factory used spreader device in case holes for install.
Fifth, new ring gear and bearings installed

[aotte1]

Another photo of tools.
Second, show pinion gear w/bearing installed. Took three tries installing pinion with different shims for the gears to be installed with correct clearance.
Three and four gears installed.
Last photo shows the circular alignment shim placed between spindle and knuckle. It fits over the studs on the knuckle. Be sure to mark its rotational position on it and knuckle before removing, because it is thicker on one side. As it is used for alignment adjustment.

[LT7A]

How's this build going? You're certainly getting the important parts all dialed in. That was a great truck to snag and put new life into.

[aotte1]

LT7A the build is moving along slowly, will update AC working now, along with auxiliary electric fans install to support AC on at idle.
Also air/fuel ratio gauge. And thanks for complement.
Been driving some and enjoy it, drives very nice. Lots of parts to install in future, interior, body patch repairs, aux fuel tank…..
Les

[LT7A]

Cool! Keep us posted, fun to watch.