1962 C20 Rear ENd Rebuild

[mschwader]

Sorry if this comes off like I am a total amateur but do I have any options/advantages with keeping my existing stock rear end on my C20 if I want to put a 327 in the truck to get it back on the streets? Im not trying to race, just cruise and maybe some high way travels. Thanks in advance.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by mschwader

Sorry if this comes off like I am a total amateur but do I have any options/advantages with keeping my existing stock rear end on my C20 if I want to put a 327 in the truck to get it back on the streets? Im not trying to race, just cruise and maybe some high way travels. Thanks in advance.

Do you know the gearing of your current Rearend? I would guess it to be 4:55 if it's a stock Eaton.

You might check out these threads:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=550878
.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=624445

[mschwader]

I don't yet. I am still trying to figure that out.

[Captainfab]

Your truck more than likely has the Eaton HO52/72. The most common gear ratio in those is 4.57:1. If you just want to get the truck back on the road, that differential will be fine and a 327 will be fine also. I drove my '66 C20 with 4.57 gears and a 327 for years. You probably won't want to drive much over 65 though. Taller rear tires will help with reducing the rpm's a bit. Something like 235/85R16's.

[Warrens69GMC]

Or if you want to find a 3.73 or 4.10 14Bolt out of a 1973-1991 c20, might be a better option.

You will need to modify.

[Short 3/4]

Unless its making noises it will probably be fine (in fact it will probably last years even if it is) Keep it full of clean lube and it will take any abuse you give it. As stated above you probably have a 4.56 ratio. If you want something a little bit more hi way friendly your only option is a 4.10 that is usually found in a late 60's or early 70's truck. It's an easy swap as you just exchange center sections, no need for special tools or skills. If you want better traction your only option is to find a center section with a factory NoSpin. Do some research if you want to go this route, as it's a true locker, and people either love or hate them (I love mine, but I'm not what most people consider normal)
Have fun with your project
Tom

[mschwader]

Great info everyone. Exactly what I was looking and hoping for. Thanks so much.

[mschwader]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

Unless its making noises it will probably be fine (in fact it will probably last years even if it is) Keep it full of clean lube and it will take any abuse you give it. As stated above you probably have a 4.56 ratio. If you want something a little bit more hi way friendly your only option is a 4.10 that is usually found in a late 60's or early 70's truck. It's an easy swap as you just exchange center sections, no need for special tools or skills. If you want better traction your only option is to find a center section with a factory NoSpin. Do some research if you want to go this route, as it's a true locker, and people either love or hate them (I love mine, but I'm not what most people consider normal)
Have fun with your project
Tom

Ive been putting off so much work on the truck because I thought I needed to swap the whole rear out. I'll try to find more info regarding swapping the middle. If you have any links it would be appreciated. Thanks Tom

[texasplumr]

What I found when I started researching a gear change in my original Eaton in my 65 C20 is probably what you've already discovered. 4.10 is your only better option if you want to keep the Eaton and just swap gears. So I measured it and hit the wrecking yards in search of a taller gear. What I found was a 3.55 with limited slip that came out of a 85 F350. (Don't hate me!) But it fit wonderfully and all I had to do was a little welding for the panhard bar mount. I've never regretted it since I can now cruise all day at 80 MPH and 2500 RPM. It no longer sounds like it's going to explode and I have the option of adding duals in the future if I want. I know it's a damn Ford rear end but nobody has to know if you don't tell them. Just remember what it came from when you do your first brake job. I had to replace one drum and I rebuilt the brakes too when I installed it. One ton brakes are a little beefier too, I believe. And surprising to me I found the bolt patterns the same between Chevy and Ford. The only warning I can give is that the one ton hub is a little bigger and your wheels will no longer fit. But the bigger 16" one ton wheels are easy enough to find. You can probably pick those up at the same wrecking yard that you found the rear end. I just trimmed mine with a torch and went on about my business.
Hopefully this will help you. Whatever you decide to do, good luck!

[Short 3/4]

Originally Posted by mschwader

Ive been putting off so much work on the truck because I thought I needed to swap the whole rear out. I'll try to find more info regarding swapping the middle. If you have any links it would be appreciated. Thanks Tom

Sorry, no links to share, but if you put HO52 into this websites search feature you will find all kinds of good knowledge. Also is a real good idea to have a copy of the factory repair manual if you own one of these trucks, that's how I keep all my old junk running.
Hope that helps,
Tom