Front suspension and steering questions

[Asshat]

I finished the rear end swap and noticed it drives much better, however, all the little bumps in the road really create a jarring experience. Like all the reflectors in the road, just driving over them, you can feel every single one. Would new springs help with this? I just installed new shocks all the way around.

Also, looking at converting to power steering; the steering box is a bit loose. Defintiely want to tighten that up. And I want a closer ration on the turns.

Not sure if those kits for $700-$800 are worth it. There are cheaper alternatives, right?

On the 63 pickups, they only had steering assist, correct? Is it better to just add the original steering assist or go with full power steering?

[Asshat]

The truck sits pretty nice, I think. A while back, I was thinking about dropping it a couple of inches.

If I do buy new springs, you think I should go with 2” lower front and rear?

[Railroadman]

Originally Posted by Asshat

The truck sits pretty nice, I think. A while back, I was thinking about dropping it a couple of inches.

If I do buy new springs, you think I should go with 2” lower front and rear?

That's a question you will have to decide for yourself - we all have different likes and dislikes.

Since you ask the question, people have been lowering vehicles since long before most of us were born. That said, I have never liked the lowered or slammed looks. The lower something sits, the more it looks to me like it's broken. I guess I'm more of an "original" guy.

Again I'm not saying lowering is "wrong", just that to my eyes the truck looks more normal at standard ride height. YMMV.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Railroadman

That's a question you will have to decide for yourself - we all have different likes and dislikes.

Since you ask the question, people have been lowering vehicles since long before most of us were born. That said, I have never liked the lowered or slammed looks. The lower something sits, the more it looks to me like it's broken. I guess I'm more of an "original" guy.

Again I'm not saying lowering is "wrong", just that to my eyes the truck looks more normal at standard ride height. YMMV.

I’m not certain, just guessing that if my springs are collapsed, I’m already at a 2” or 3” drop. The truck does not look slammed, so if I can keep it about the same, I’ll be happy.

[The Rocknrod]

You could get captainfabs adapter and a steering box - http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=332923

[Asshat]

Is it possible to just buy all these components from Rock Auto, let's say for a 1974 C10?

- Gear box (3-1/4 turns)
- Pressure hose
- Return hose
- Gear nut
- Pitman arm
- Pump
- Pulley
- Pump bracket
- Steering coupler?
- Tie rod end?

[The Rocknrod]

You need his bracket, but the rest of the items yes if the brackets fit your water pump length ect.

[66x3]

Might have to look pretty hard for six cyl brackets for p/steering pump, good luck. My vote is to keep your stock springs. I like our C20s to look like the heavier duty trucks that they are.

[jayoldschool]

It's a C20, much stiffer ride than a 10. The difference between my 65 C10 and buddy's 63 C20 was amazing, that thing rode like a school bus. If you want it to ride smooth, you need some weight in the back. Or, convert it to C10 specs.

[PGSigns]

The C20's are sprung a bit stiff. But they were designed that way to be able to carry a load. You can put C10 springs front and rear and that will soften the ride. You can lower the tire pressure a bit and that also helps.
Jimmy

[cwcarpenter98]

You have a 292 right?
If you aren't set on getting factory power steering brackets, there's at least one company out there that makes them. I got this link from another post on here awhile back: https://davisspeedequipment.com/

If you go with the 74 or so steering gear, you'll need a bracket that mounts the power gear to your manual steering frame. I think Captainfab's bracket will work for you if you choose to go that route (check with him on it since your needs are for a c20). Also a good time to install a collapsible intermediate steering shaft.

Like mentioned above, you could install 1/2 ton springs fairly easily. Maybe see if someone local is giving away a set of stock springs, install those, see how you like the ride, then if you decide you want to lower it, you can. I could be wrong, but I'm thinking the 1/2 ton springs might lower it a little in comparison to the stock 3/4 ton springs

[J Williams]

As mentioned above, captainfab adapter plate then a steering box from a 72-74 I know will work. Probably even up to 78. I also used the power steering pump out of the 72. Everything bolted up easily other than the pulley wouldn't line up. I ended up buying a complete pulley setup that changed everything on the engine and now it lines up perfect. Just couldn't find one that matched what I had. I had a donor truck so parts were free. You will also have a steering shaft issue. Right now I have one I welded up on as a mock up but would suggest getting a collapsible one so if the unmentionable happens you don't eat a steering wheel.

[AcampoDave]

Check your cab mount cushions. If they are all shot out a new set of rubber ones will help a little too.
I got these https://www.classicparts.com/1963-66...oaAo_YEALw_wcB

[val1gonzales]

What I did was go out to a local junkyard and found everything I needed and got it all for $165. I found a '70 C10 shell with only block and PS pump and sector in it. I had to take it all off myself but it was all good! I kept every bolt, washer, clamp, bracket, pulley and even the original used pump and hoses for good measure. Most junkyards just need to sell and not worried about what they cost on eBay or new. To them its money for parts. Then some elbow grease, spray paint, some new service parts and it's like new. Once in it looks like it was factory.

[SCOTI]

What tires are you running? Heavy Duty tires vs standard car/truck tires make an impact on the ride quality. 8-ply tires will definitely transmit more road surface 'feel' into the chassis @ their recommended max pressures for the loads they're able to haul.

Tire selection & air pressures can make a big difference here.

Coil spring rates will vary between a C10 & C20 but may not be that different. Without knowing what you have, swapping in new springs may not yield much difference.

If doing a steering swap, the Captain Fab bracket & full power steering would be the direction I'd go....

[Asshat]

Not sure why, but the truck is leaning to one side.
Any ideas?
Edit: 1-1/2” lower on the driver side.

[SCOTI]

Coils not seated the same. One maybe didn't seat correctly or could the be clocked differently?

Was the truck level/equal before changes were made?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Coils not seated the same. One maybe didn't seat correctly or could the be clocked differently?

Was the truck level/equal before changes were made?

I didn’t make any changes to the front, just the rear. And, I did not change the rear springs, just removed the upper mounts and re-installed.

Edit: 1-1/2” lower on the driver side.

[kaycee]

Maybe you need a add a leaf/spring ,found this in my 63 I purchased

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by kaycee

Maybe you need a add a leaf/spring ,found this in my 63 I purchased

I wonder if one spring in the rear could cause the entire vehicle to lean to one side.

[kaycee]

ADD A Leaf/spring .I found this today while bleeding brakes

[Asshat]

The distance from the frame to the top of the axle is 1/4” less on the driver side. Not sure if this would make a difference of 1-1/2” when sitting on the ground.

I wonder if the pan hard bar could affect this?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

The distance from the frame to the top of the axle is 1/4” less on the driver side. Not sure if this would make a difference of 1-1/2” when sitting on the ground.

I wonder if the pan hard bar could affect this?

Put something under the tires if you need the room (I use pieces of 10x10x2 wood stacked as necessary) & have full weight for your measuring. It shouldn't but can make a difference.

1/4" is not going to translate into 1.5" on the opposite end. That dimension is within 'standards' of a vehicle corner height.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Put something under the tires if you need the room (I use pieces of 10x10x2 wood stacked as necessary) & have full weight for your measuring. It shouldn't but can make a difference.

1/4" is not going to translate into 1.5" on the opposite end. That dimension is within 'standards' of a vehicle corner height.

The measurements I took was with the truck on jack stands, and the axle just hanging.

[Asshat]

More info.
I think it is the way the spring sits in the retainer. Is this spring retainer intended to be
positioned a specific way?