sealed hydraulic clutch master and slave

[jdb_us1]

So....

Anyone ever see or hear of someone converting the stock hydraulic clutch slave and master cylinder to a sealed pre bled system?

I have a 1990 crew with an sm465 and hydraulic set up. Replaced the slave, master, and hose with new and have spent HOURS trying to bleed the setup (yes I have tried a power bleeder, traditional pump, hold, and bleed, and depressing the slave with the reservoir cap off). The slave and master are both reman parts.

A came across a setup for an 02 Dodge that looks like it might work with some creative engineering on brackets to get the throw right.

Thoughts?

TIA

[kipps]

It would seem a shame. I've bled my 87 a number of times with relative ease. With a second person, it took 5 or 10 minutes tops to get it fully bled out.

Pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, pedal up. Repeat half a dozen times, then top off the fluid, and check for fork movement with the bleeder closed. As soon as the fork begins to move a little, just pump the dickens out of the pedal and it should gain full functionality.

Edit: I would propose that either the master or the slave is defective from the factory. They're both pretty cheap. Just buy a general rockauto set, and see if that makes a difference.

[sweetk30]

I had to bleed mine with it all hooked up but out of the truck and holding the master upside down .

Found the aftermarket master had a bubble size dome inside the reservoir to master nipple . It would let a bubble sit inside and random suck in and out .

Once i did this problem solved for years .

[jdb_us1]

Originally Posted by sweetk30

I had to bleed mine with it all hooked up but out of the truck and holding the master upside down .

Found the aftermarket master had a bubble size dome inside the reservoir to master nipple . It would let a bubble sit inside and random suck in and out .

Once i did this problem solved for years .

I thought about this last night, I think I will give it a try before attempting any sort of retrofit.

[jdb_us1]

Originally Posted by kipps

It would seem a shame. I've bled my 87 a number of times with relative ease. With a second person, it took 5 or 10 minutes tops to get it fully bled out.

Pedal down, open bleeder, close bleeder, pedal up. Repeat half a dozen times, then top off the fluid, and check for fork movement with the bleeder closed. As soon as the fork begins to move a little, just pump the dickens out of the pedal and it should gain full functionality.

Edit: I would propose that either the master or the slave is defective from the factory. They're both pretty cheap. Just buy a general rockauto set, and see if that makes a difference.

They are reman parts, which is suspect. I have had very bad experiences with reman hydraulic parts in the past. Owned a 79 Cj7 and swear that I put 5 or 6 brake master cylinders on it before I got one that didnt leak.

[SunSoaked]

I fought with my hydro clutch for hours. Then I went to Napa and saw this. It literally bled the clutch in less than 2 minutes. Perfect firm pedal.

Only way to go.

[v30crewcab]

the best way to bleed a slave it to take it loose from the trans, and slowly push it in and out. it will move alot of fluid that way and it bleeds fairly quick. never had one that wouldn't bleed out that way unless something was bad.

[jdb_us1]

Originally Posted by v30crewcab

the best way to bleed a slave it to take it loose from the trans, and slowly push it in and out. it will move alot of fluid that way and it bleeds fairly quick. never had one that wouldn't bleed out that way unless something was bad.

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[jdb_us1]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

I fought with my hydro clutch for hours. Then I went to Napa and saw this. It literally bled the clutch in less than 2 minutes. Perfect firm pedal.

Only way to go.

I have a Blue Point version of the same hand pump, have not had any luck with it except on wheel cylinders and calipers.
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[jdb_us1]

That is how I have been trying the last few times. I get a pedal enough to barely disengage and shift and two days later I lose everything. So something is not sealing. Which sends me back to my original idea to be able to install a problem system.
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