Need Carb Help - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

JoetheMobster · 12-20-2003, 10:37 PM

Two questions:

1)I was wondering if any of you could help me identify this P.O.S. carb?

2)The "idle stop solenoid" is dead and am looking for a replacement as well. Probably why it's a pain in the ass to keep it idling when it's cold!

(have to keep foot on the gas until she warms up - then idles fine) I was wondering if any of you had to replace yours - how much??

BTW - adding pictures of carb setup slowly - need to change size for posting here.

Picture #1:

The metal line you see coming into the bottom of the carb is for my Compressed Natural Gas system.

JoetheMobster · 12-20-2003, 10:39 PM

Picture #2:

bailing wire was there when I bought the truck - haven't really investigated why it's there! LMAO!

JoetheMobster · 12-20-2003, 10:41 PM

#3

Overall shot of carb - and missing solenoid + plug.

JoetheMobster · 12-20-2003, 10:43 PM

#4:

**Palf70Step** · 12-20-2003, 10:46 PM

Bailing wire looks like my carb...Wired the choke open since it isn't working. makes cold starts a B**ch and keeping it running a real pain until the engine is warm....least it does on the 6 poppers in my 70 and 82. I am not a carb expert by any means, but I though the idle stop solenoid was only to prevent it from hutting down/backing off to fast....thus less emissions. Sounds like your starting and running problem might be the lack of a working choke.

My replacement was $5...converted to manual...soon as I finish hooking it up that is

If it is original...it is probably a Rochester 2GV...least that's what my book says...and it looks like one to my untrained eye.

JoetheMobster · 12-20-2003, 10:50 PM

Quote:

but I though the idle stop solenoid was only to prevent it from hutting down/backing off to fast....thus less emissions.

You know what man - you're right!! That's what it's for! I might go out there and yank that stupid bailing wire off and see what happens.

I've noticed that the choke is open all the time so maybe the same thing is happening to me.

Gordo · 12-20-2003, 11:01 PM

My thoughts on your cold engine problem is the choke wired open, as already stated above. It could have been wired open for two reasons, #1 the choke vaccum pull-off is shot and the engine would run very rich and load up while warming up or #2 the choke spring located on the intake opens too slowly because the exhaust cross over passage in the intake is pugged up with carbon not allowing the exhaust to pass through and heat up the area. This would keep the engine in the choke phase much to long and keeping it on high idle. Removing the intake and cleaning out the cross over passage would cure that problem. A functioning heat riser in the exhaust system would also be a good thing.

JoetheMobster · 12-20-2003, 11:04 PM

I don't F'n believe it! I took the wire off, and it runs like a top!! Kick the gas pedal once before starting - it high idles, and then give er a quick stomp - and she's idling at about 900 rpm.

Thanks for the help Palf!! You have stopped the suffering!

cableguy0 · 12-20-2003, 11:40 PM

i bet it was wired open for a reason. the choke was probably sticking closed and will probably do it again. if it was me i would swap that carb with something a lil better that had electric choke

Perchjerker · 12-22-2003, 04:50 PM

Those Thermostat chokes work good-Has on mine for 30+ years. Whoever wired it open probably had bad points or something and thought the carb was bad!

JoetheMobster · 01-16-2004, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cableguy0
i bet it was wired open for a reason. the choke was probably sticking closed and will probably do it again. if it was me i would swap that carb with something a lil better that had electric choke

Well - My truck is acting like a pig! I took the bailing wire off, and it ran great for a while. I go to start it, it fires up fine, and idles for a while. I put 'er in reverse, back out, the thing stalls, and refuses to start again! I swear I had half the freakin motor pulled apart trying to get 'er going again. Notice this type of crap only happens when you absolutely need the truck!!! Well, I got it going again, eventually, but it wasn't fun. Now I'm wondering if this POS will leave me stuck somewhere! Luckily, the above problems happened in my driveway.

Anyway, now it seems the truck decides to high idle whenever it feels like it, not just when it's cold. LMAO!

I think a stick of dynomite would fix this truck up nice and good!

*1972C10* · 01-16-2004, 09:19 PM

Is that an electric fuel pump way up there? if it dont still have the engine driven fuel pump it woudl be wise to have that electic as close to the tank as possible

They push fuel better than they pull it.

12-20-2003, 10:46 PM	#5
Palf70Step State of Confusion! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Gulfport, MS USA Posts: 47,324	Bailing wire looks like my carb...Wired the choke open since it isn't working. makes cold starts a Bch and keeping it running a real pain until the engine is warm....least it does on the 6 poppers in my 70 and 82. I am not a carb expert by any means, but I though the idle stop solenoid was only to prevent it from hutting down/backing off to fast....thus less emissions. Sounds like your starting and running problem might be the lack of a working choke. My replacement was $5...converted to manual...soon as I finish hooking it up that is If it is original...it is probably a Rochester 2GV...least that's what my book says...and it looks like one to my untrained eye. __________________ Bill** 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! Last edited by Palf70Step; 12-20-2003 at 10:50 PM.

12-20-2003, 11:01 PM	#7
Gordo Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Killingworth, CT. USA Posts: 3,378	My thoughts on your cold engine problem is the choke wired open, as already stated above. It could have been wired open for two reasons, #1 the choke vaccum pull-off is shot and the engine would run very rich and load up while warming up or #2 the choke spring located on the intake opens too slowly because the exhaust cross over passage in the intake is pugged up with carbon not allowing the exhaust to pass through and heat up the area. This would keep the engine in the choke phase much to long and keeping it on high idle. Removing the intake and cleaning out the cross over passage would cure that problem. A functioning heat riser in the exhaust system would also be a good thing. __________________ 1971 C10 swb stepside 350/700R4/3.73posi (retired as of 4/22/03) 1998 S10 short bed 2002 S10 Blazer 1942 Oldsmobile 1958 Massey Harris Pony 1951 Wife Killingworth, Connecticut May those who love us, love us, any of those who do not love us, may God turn their hearts. And if God is unable to turn their hearts, may he turn their ankles so we may know them by their limping. A man who works with his hands is a laborer; a man who works with his hands and his brain is a craftsman; but a man who works with his hands and his brain and his heart is an artist.

12-20-2003, 11:04 PM	#8
JoetheMobster Listening since '86 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Canada Posts: 1,799	I don't F'n believe it! I took the wire off, and it runs like a top!! Kick the gas pedal once before starting - it high idles, and then give er a quick stomp - and she's idling at about 900 rpm. Thanks for the help Palf!! You have stopped the suffering! __________________ 2007 Saturn Aura - hey it WAS a GM product

12-20-2003, 11:40 PM	#9
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	i bet it was wired open for a reason. the choke was probably sticking closed and will probably do it again. if it was me i would swap that carb with something a lil better that had electric choke __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

12-22-2003, 04:50 PM	#10
Perchjerker Beer Power!!!!!!!!!! Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Nacogdoches, TX Posts: 280	Those Thermostat chokes work good-Has on mine for 30+ years. Whoever wired it open probably had bad points or something and thought the carb was bad! __________________ Rather be fishin'

12-20-2003, 10:37 PM	#1
JoetheMobster Listening since '86 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Canada Posts: 1,799	Need Carb Help Two questions: 1)I was wondering if any of you could help me identify this P.O.S. carb? 2)The "idle stop solenoid" is dead and am looking for a replacement as well. Probably why it's a pain in the ass to keep it idling when it's cold! (have to keep foot on the gas until she warms up - then idles fine) I was wondering if any of you had to replace yours - how much?? BTW - adding pictures of carb setup slowly - need to change size for posting here. Picture #1: The metal line you see coming into the bottom of the carb is for my Compressed Natural Gas system. Attached Images __________________ 2007 Saturn Aura - hey it WAS a GM product Last edited by JoetheMobster; 12-20-2003 at 10:45 PM.

12-20-2003, 10:39 PM	#2
JoetheMobster Listening since '86 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Canada Posts: 1,799	Picture #2: bailing wire was there when I bought the truck - haven't really investigated why it's there! LMAO! Attached Images __________________ 2007 Saturn Aura - hey it WAS a GM product

12-20-2003, 10:41 PM	#3
JoetheMobster Listening since '86 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Canada Posts: 1,799	#3 Overall shot of carb - and missing solenoid + plug. Attached Images __________________ 2007 Saturn Aura - hey it WAS a GM product

12-20-2003, 10:43 PM	#4
JoetheMobster Listening since '86 Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Canada Posts: 1,799	#4: Attached Images __________________ 2007 Saturn Aura - hey it WAS a GM product

01-16-2004, 09:19 PM	#12
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Is that an electric fuel pump way up there? if it dont still have the engine driven fuel pump it woudl be wise to have that electic as close to the tank as possible They push fuel better than they pull it.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.