![]() |
|
![]() |
#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,666
|
Door closing problem
Driver's door on 69 C10 takes a lot of effort to close and release. It wasn't this way until we had paint and body work done by a shop. If I swing the door shut, it hits the A pillar part the door seal and bounces back. It will close if I push it very firmly or slam it.
With the door seal removed, I can open and close with one finger. The current seals have been installed for 2.5 years, so I don't expect them to ever work any better than they do now. I supported the door and loosened the hinge bolts on the door side. Door is now pushed all the way outwards. That helped just a little, but it's still not as easy as it should be, or as easy as the passenger door. The door does sit inwards about 1/16"-1/8" relative to the fender. But it seems to contact the seal on the A pillar just like the passenger door. Looks like I have three choices here: 1) Elongate the slots on the door side of the hinge. 2) Try to shim the hinge on the body w/o having to remove the fender. 3) Buy a different door seal. Obviously, a new seal would be easiest, but are their any differences between the various manufacturers? Unfortunately I don't know which manufacturer's seals were used.
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#2 |
The Older Generation
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 26,083
|
Re: Door closing problem
-
You don't mention the gap at the rear of the door but it sounds like you need to loosen the bolts behind the fender and slide the door back. You could try moving the striker out about 1/16", just don't let it slide down any. LockDoc
__________________
Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,666
|
Re: Door closing problem
Gap around door is fairly consistent. And it's not a striker/latch issue. Rear of door is flush with cab. The problem is in the front where the door is trying to compress the seal.
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#4 |
The Older Generation
![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Montezuma, Iowa
Posts: 26,083
|
Re: Door closing problem
__________________
Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 - |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#5 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 306
|
Re: Door closing problem
Quote:
|
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: San Diego Co.
Posts: 1,193
|
Re: Door closing problem
Good info! Subscribed.
__________________
1972 Chevy C-10, SWB, Fleet, 350/350, PS, PB, HEI, mostly stock, Survivor. ![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#7 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 6,241
|
Re: Door closing problem
I just reinstalled my driver side door a couple of weeks ago, and I had it lined up really well with the following features:
1) Height - horizontal creases in door lined up with matching creases at the back of the cab 2) Bottom edge of door curvature lined up with rocker panel, and consistent gap 3) Gap between pillar and vent window portion of door similar in size to gap at rear edge of door and cab My door was brutally difficult to close with the precision clip on seals, so I went with a Honda Civic seal like in the link LockDoc posted, and all is well. My door will even close on its own by swinging it closed without pushing on it when the window is down. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#8 |
Moderator
![]() Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,117
|
Re: Door closing problem
FWIW, I have used every seal type offered on these trucks, always had to slam the door or some other issue. The Honda Civic seals worked the best hands down. I’ve used them on three trucks now and no issues, doors all closed nice and easy as they should. Picked them all up from junkyards on the cheap too.
__________________
1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: South East Ohio
Posts: 644
|
Re: Door closing problem
Yeah this is good info. Never woulda figured a honda part...
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#10 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 6,241
|
Re: Door closing problem
The only down side to the Honda seal is that it has this extra flap on the interior side. I ended up trimming it off with a utility knife. Now it looks fairly close to stock.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#11 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,666
|
Re: Door closing problem
That's some great info guys! I'll give the Honda seals a try.
Found the seal part number on several Honda dealer websites, but thought I'd try my local dealer. Did an on-line chat asking for price and availability. But after 10 minutes worth of exchanges, I gave up. First she asked me for the year and model of my Honda, so I found that and gave it to her. She then asked me for the VIN, which I obviously I don't have. So I said, "Please just ask a parts guy to look up the part number." "Sorry," she said, "we can't do that without the VIN." Before signing off, I told her she must work for the dealer's Sales Prevention Department.
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 04-02-2021 at 09:34 AM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 306
|
Re: Door closing problem
72315-SVA-A01ZA (Right)
72355-SVA-A01ZA (Left) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#13 |
Junior Member
![]() Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Louisville,Ky
Posts: 387
|
Re: Door closing problem
I tried the push on seals and experienced problems like you describe. You can try adjusting the door out a little at the A pillar.
I fixed mine by going back to glue on seals. I used Metro Supersoft LM13-H available at Summit (MMP-LM13-H) and in stock. They work great. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: South San Francisco CA,
Posts: 441
|
Re: Door closing problem
My son had the same issue after he put in new weatherstripping on the doors. He loosened the striker plate, adjusted and now it closes perfect. It needs a bit of tweaking, but there are other things that are taking precedence
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#15 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,666
|
Re: Door closing problem
So just to get it straight, Honda seals are push-on, right?
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#16 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 6,241
|
Re: Door closing problem
Yes
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#17 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,666
|
Re: Door closing problem
What tools are needed to remove the seals from a junkyard car? Anything other than a phillips screwdriver?
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#18 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: CA
Posts: 6,241
|
Re: Door closing problem
There is a plastic sill plate that has to be removed. I think there might be some fasteners somewhere on it, but I just ripped it off by hand.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#19 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,666
|
Re: Door closing problem
Went to 5 junkyards and found 4 Civic coupes. Only one had a driver's side door seal, and it was torn badly. Ended up getting 2 passenger side seals, and just now installed one of them on the driver's side of my truck. All I had to do was rotate it 90 degrees.
I suspect there are some minor differences between left and right seals, such as some pre-bends, but nothing that I noticed. I did have to pinch the metal-backed seal with pliers in a couple places to make it grip tighter. But it's 10X better than dealing with glue-on seals that never stay glued on. I'll have to remove some weather-stripping adhesive that's now exposed on the inside of the cab. I also may look at ways to paint the gray-colored part on the inside edge of the seals, but that's not a big deal even if I leave it alone. Amazing that these seals are the perfect length for my truck!
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#20 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Hewitt, Tx
Posts: 386
|
Re: Door closing problem
It has to be the door seals. I originally used LMC door seals and I physically could not close the doors. It was literally impossible to close them. I ordered some from Steele Rubber products and the doors close perfectly now.
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#21 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: North Texas
Posts: 3,666
|
Re: Door closing problem
Are they press-on or glue-on?
__________________
Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 36 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- converted from 250-six to roller cam 350, Vortec heads -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB, 305, TH350C -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Hewitt, Tx
Posts: 386
|
Re: Door closing problem
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#23 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Hewitt, Tx
Posts: 386
|
Re: Door closing problem
Here is the link to the ones I bought. A little pricy but were perfect.
https://www.steelerubber.com/door-se...yle-70-3881-72 |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#24 |
Senior Member
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Chattanooga TN
Posts: 6,224
|
Re: Door closing problem
I use the push on ones from GMC Pauls. The key is you have to cut a slightly angled (opposing angle) cut on the end of the new seals. Put the center joint where you start the install along the bottom edge of the rocker. Work it around the door frame of course but where they meet you want about 15 degree cut to create a bit of an air gap where the start / stop meet. (If that makes sense?) You wont be able to see the gap looking down from the top but when the door closes theres a space there where the weather strip will kinda squish together. If they are super tight together they dont have anywhere to go and kinda squish as the door closes. That's why it's hard to close the doors.
Try it.. it will help. It will still be snug, yes but not something you'll need to adjust the door to be acceptable.
__________________
Chad 1967 C10 SWB - Project Savannah - 6.0/4L80 *Currently underway* 1968 C10 SWB - TOTY 2018, 50th Anniversary Tribute Project * Sold * Pride and Joy 1986 Silverado Short Fleet - Scarlet *Sold* 1985 Silverado Short Fleet *Sold* 2022 Jeep Gladiator Mojave 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted, Built 1992 Jeep Cherokee XJ 4x4 - Lifted 2013 Honda Accord EX-L v6 Coupe 6spd (wife's ride) |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#25 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 1,161
|
Re: Door closing problem
more good tech, thanks
|
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|