Sway bar on a 63 with a later model cross member

[Asshat]

Installed the 74 C20 cross member, and the sway bar doesn’t bolt up right. It seems I would have to create a new mounting position. However, the stock sway bar from the 74 cross member is to short. It lines up with the mounting positions on the control arms, it’s the frame mounting positions that do not line up. It’s too short.

Is there an aftermarket sway bar that will fit?

[cwcarpenter98]

Do you have factory frame stands for the sway bar on your 63? I didn't on mine, and when I added my sway bar from a late 70s 3/4 ton, I had to bolt the bar on with the suspension on the ground to get it done

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by cwcarpenter98

Do you have factory frame stands for the sway bar on your 63? I didn't on mine, and when I added my sway bar from a late 70s 3/4 ton, I had to bolt the bar on with the suspension on the ground to get it done

Not sure what you mean?

I did have a sway bar on my63, it was smaller diameter, and I gave it away when I sold my old front cross member.

The one that came with the 74 cross member doesn’t fit because it isn’t long enough, front to back. It bolts up to the lower control arms, it just doesn’t come forward enough to mount to the frame where the old brackets were.

[Paul Y]

Originally Posted by Asshat

Not sure what you mean?

I did have a sway bar on my63, it was smaller diameter, and I gave it away when I sold my old front cross member.

The one that came with the 74 cross member doesn’t fit because it isn’t long enough, front to back. It bolts up to the lower control arms, it just doesn’t come forward enough to mount to the frame where the old brackets were.

Make new brackets?

Just a thought....

P.

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by Paul Y

Make new brackets?

Just a thought....

P.

I don’t think I need to make new brackets, the brackets I have should work fine.

Maybe I can get a steel rod and extend each leg a few inches. Cheaper to buy steel rod and weld it on, rather than buy a whole new sway bar.

[cwcarpenter98]

Oh, I understand what you mean now. Sorry I'm no help as I haven't had that issue before

[nsb29]

Don’t know how much to short you are but if it’s a small amount maybe you could move your frame stands. I took this route I think I got it through Summit, Much better design than the original set up no binding but you do have to drill new holes

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by nsb29

Don’t know how much to short you are but if it’s a small amount maybe you could move your frame stands. I took this route I think I got it through Summit, Much better design than the original set up no binding but you do have to drill new holes
Attachment 2105643

What truck is this, early, like a 63?

Also, can you post a closeup of the mounting to the control arm? I can’t tell from the pic. Did you have to modify the control arm, drill holes in it?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Asshat

What truck is this, early, like a 63?

Also, can you post a closeup of the mounting to the control arm? I can’t tell from the pic. Did you have to modify the control arm, drill holes in it?

That is an aftermarket sway bar in his image. Some of them utilize the end-link attachment method like cars would have vs the factory method of shell/bushing bolted directly to the a-arm. They usually do require drilling extra holes for mounting.

Put the center of whatever sway bar you have on a jack. Mount each side to the a-arm. Raise the bar until the frame rail mounts contact the frame. Drill holes where necessary. Install hardware & tighten.

[nsb29]

Scoti pretty much summed it up you have to drill one hole in each A-frame and two in each frame rail no stands required the truck is a 65

[AcampoDave]

Could the sway bar be upside down?

[Asshat]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

Could the sway bar be upside down?

Turning it over doesn’t make it any longer. I thought about that too; it just changed the angle where it mounts to the control arms.