Easy way to remove motor and trans from donor?

[kev2809]

Looking to see whats the best/easiest way to do this? my donor truck is a 2001 yukon DBW 2WD. im needing the engine, trans, wiring harness, TAC module, and gas pedal assembly.

ive started with the obvious, front hoses, intake and filter box, clutch fan, belts, A/C hoses, alternator. i know i will still need the power steering lines disconnected, and i will probably pull the top intake to give me more room. also planning on cutting the exhause right under the pipes.

also, are you guys pulling engine and trans together or seperate? just trying to find the easiest route.

[mongocanfly]

Sounds like you got a handle on it..pulling all at once is easier to me

[Davidf]

Cut exhaust down stream of primary O2 sensors so you can re-use the down pipes with the O2 bung. Keep trans and engine together. Remove all hoses and wires but leave wire harness on engine. Pull front end of vehicle off: bumper, grille, lights, radiator, condenser, core support, engine stands, etc. Lift engine trans slight and pull straight out the front.

Usually, hood can be placed in the service position and not need to be removed.

[kipps]

Don't bother trying to cut the exhaust with an acetylene torch. There's enough anti-oxidizing properties to the metal that GM used in the exhaust that's it's practically impossible to burn it away with a torch. You have to blow it away with the o2, which is slow and expensive. Instead, cut the exhaust with a grinder or a reciprocating saw.

Remove the radiator support. Remove everything you can off the engine. Most of it comes off very quickly. The front accessories, intake, and coil packs should all be gone within an hour or so. By removing this stuff, you reduce the risk of damage while pulling the engine, particularly if you pull it with a skidloader like I did.

[kev2809]

I thought the 02 sensors get deleted?

[LS short box]

Only rear O2 sensors are typically deleted. Saws All on the exhaust. If the cats are there cut them off and use them or sell them to the recycler. Have extra blades on hand. I would remove the engine/trans wiring harness, pull the engine/trans as one and then disconnect the wiring harness from the engine compartment. Take all small parts (bolts,clips) just in case.

[kev2809]

good advice. I pulled the steering pump and bracket, the intake, and fuse box tonight. getting closer

[fourspeedwagon]

What about “where to lift from?”
I’m about exactly the same point as Kev currently. Old SBC I’d use a couple bolts in the heads. Will that be fine with aluminum heads? I’m leaving the trans connected.
Thanks and hope you don’t mind the hijack

[mongocanfly]

i made a couple of lifting brackets similar to whats on a smallblock..that bolt to the end of each head..they hold just fine..depending on what harness you go with those factory o2 sensors may not work anyway..i know on the PSI harness they give you the #s for the ones you need

[kev2809]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

i made a couple of lifting brackets similar to whats on a smallblock..that bolt to the end of each head..they hold just fine..depending on what harness you go with those factory o2 sensors may not work anyway..i know on the PSI harness they give you the #s for the ones you need

I'm actually sending this one off to the guy that lt1swap recommends so he can rewire it.

fourspeed , they sell ls lifting plates that bolt under where the intake mounts. I believe you pull that plate and then bolt on the lifting plate. I will be needing that soon myself

[LS short box]

I like to use an engine leveler on my cherry picker. 4 some what short chains attached to the front and rear of both heads. The leveler helps with adjusting the engine tilt. The four chains seems to help keep the engine more level from left to right.

[kev2809]

I actually bought a leveler earlier this year for this project but then seen that valley plate lift so I ordered one

[Dieselwrencher]

I really despise removing the engines out of the 4x4 ones. There is little to no room to get the bell housing bolts out. This especially sucks doing it in a pick n pull.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

I really despise removing the engines out of the 4x4 ones. There is little to no room to get the bell housing bolts out. This especially sucks doing it in a pick n pull.

I pulled motor only from a 4x4 Yukon. I ended up cutting the tunnel in order to get at the bell housing bolts.

[kev2809]

ya I hear they are tougher lol.

I completely got my harness and pcm out yesterday...wasn't all that bad. think all I have left is to cut the exhaust, pull the driveshaft, and unbolt the motor mounts and trans mount. I pulled the radiator but nothing else up front so I'm hoping the trans will clear the core support coming out.

[Davidf]

Most LS engines have a lifting bracket on the left rear head (intended, I believe, for a special clamp). I drilled the bracket to be able to bolt a chain to it. This worked well when I first installed the engine completely dressed. Later I learned it is much easier to bolt a leveling bar to each head with the engine naked...ie no intake manifold, coil packs, or accessories.

FWIW, the front or primary O2 sensors are necessary as they fine tune the air/fuel mixture. The rear or secondary O2 sensors have no affect on the air/fuel ratio and cannot control anything. Their only purpose is to monitor the efficiency of the catalytic converters.

[kev2809]

good thing I asked you guys, I was going to cut it right under the headers

got the front core off and have plenty of room now.

[mongocanfly]

David..do you have a pic of the lifting bracket you said comes on the engine?...I've never seen one on any of the engines I've pulled

[kev2809]

I wonder if it's this one?

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by kev2809

I wonder if it's this one?

Yes, this is what I’m talking about. Assumed assembly line bracket. I drilled a hole in it for a chain bolt

[mongocanfly]

Could be..maybe assembly line bracketry?...none of mine have that though

[Dieselwrencher]

It's actually a guard for the fuel rail. If the vehicle is ever in a bad enough front end collision, that bracket is supposed to protect the fuel rail from being shoved into and through the firewall preventing an inside the passenger compartment fire. I've removed the ones I've LS swapped. I actually used one to make a Z bar ball stud mount on my Camaro.

[Davidf]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

It's actually a guard for the fuel rail. If the vehicle is ever in a bad enough front end collision, that bracket is supposed to protect the fuel rail from being shoved into and through the firewall preventing an inside the passenger compartment fire. I've removed the ones I've LS swapped. I actually used one to make a Z bar ball stud mount on my Camaro.

If so, why would it not be on both sides as both sides of the engine have a fuel rail.

[kev2809]

finally got it out. wasn't all that bad for my first time pulling the core support and radiator made it sooooooo much easier. thanks for all the help guys....can't wait to start the repairs

[mongocanfly]

Good deal