47-55.1 Junkyard Blower fan for heater 12v

[suburban99]

Does anyone know of a 12v blower fan that will fit in 1950 GMC with the "fresh air style" heater? Rockauto is sold out.

[mr48chev]

Did you check to see what else the one on Rock Auto fit?

Classic parts shows it and says it fits a 63/55 truck with air but I have never seen a 63/66 with air outside of Texas.

If you click on the blue part number on the Rock auto listing it shows you what else a part fits to some degree.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...wer+motor,6916

[suburban99]

Yes, thanks for the tip.

[joedoh]

get a john deere or equipment firewall heater from amazon and put the old cover over it. the old ones are made for a coolant pressure between 0 and 0.1 psi, 16-19psi makes them incontinent.

not being discouraging, but it is cheaper to buy a brand new one than to retrofit the old one with a new core and new motor.

[mr48chev]

Ah but Joe, you know that everyone needs to fight the leaking stock heater core thing in their life to be in the AD truck inner circle. It's a rite of passage. Then you hunt down a cover plate for where the heater motor stuck though the firewall and go get yourself a Vintage air heater that handles the pressure and actually kicks out heat. I've got three or four old fresh air heaters out in the shed and several mix and match square box heaters around and wouldn't use any of them but everyone needs to go through that rite of passage at least once.

[1project2many]

Ah but Joe, you know that everyone needs to fight the leaking stock heater core thing in their life to be in the AD truck inner circle.

[dsraven]

utv heaters, equipment or tractor heaters, marine heaters, something like that maybe work? some have outlets for the defrost tubing to connect, some don't. if you could find somebody wrecking a side by side they may part with the heater.

[1project2many]

School bus heaters are a possibility. Multi-speed motors, self contained, and available.

[mr48chev]

Guys, he just wants a 12 V blower motor that will be a direct replacement for his 6V blower motor not a new heater.

I agree 100 % that you can buy any one of a number of heaters with 12 V fans for under 200 which is probably going to be less than rebuilding the stock heater if he needs to replace the core with one that handles more than 4 lbs pressure but right now all he wants is the motor.

I've got three and maybe four of those heaters that are going to the swapmeet in the spring and will probably start out with a 25 or 30 dollar price tag on them and if someone hands me cash for one I am not even going to count it. The price of the heater cores just make them out of my price range to deal with. A heater core for a 47/51 with a fresh air heater on Classic parts is almost 100 bucks more than a complete Vintage Air heater.

[1project2many]

Guys, he just wants a 12 V blower motor that will be a direct replacement for his 6V blower motor not a new heater.

Again, look at school bus heaters. In many cases the motors are similar to what was used 40-50 years ago. There are three pages of options here:

https://www.unityparts.com/categorie...Heater-Motors/

[_Ogre]

since this thread is ad heaters. how many heaters did they offer in the ad trucks?
mr48 posted this pic in the something interesting thread, i see a min of 3 different heater stub outs
red is the current heater stub outs, are blue 2 different styles?
i assume the big hole is the blower?

[suburban99]

On mine the upper oval hole in blue is the Ranco valve (senses inside temp and adjusts flow accordingly)
The 2 holes under the big blower hole is for the in/out to the core and back.
But mines a Canadian truck from Saskatchewan...needed a good heater...
I am on the west coast some mostly used to clear windows of vapour..

[mr48chev]

That 49 cab actually has what should be the original recirculating air heater.

As far as I know they only came from the factory with the "fresh air" heater that connects to the side so it draws fresh air in though the louvers in the side of the cowl and the recirculating air heater like this one.

The block off plate for the heater motor off that firewall is on my 48 after I pulled the heater out of it due to the core leaking. I'm thinking that a cap for one or more of the other heater tube openings may have been taken off before I got the cab. A friend gave it to me about 30 years ago and I have drug it around ever since.

A big number of AD trucks were shipped from the factory without heaters. That kept the price down a few bucks and on the big trucks a lot of them only got used a couple of months a year for harvest when they didn't need a heater. A lot of AD trucks in Florida, south Texas, southern New Mexico and Arizona have never had heaters in them.

The 51 1-1/2 ton I have has a square aftermarket heater that was either installed by the dealer or by an owner at some time. Dealers would often put in what they had on the shelf in the back room including heaters for older Chevy cars or trucks.

Most of the square heaters were aftermarket from a parts house. You went down and bought one from the local parts house and took it back and installed it.

Then there was what ever you could find at the wrecking yard that fit and didn't leak. Around here you never know what You will find in one as quite often the farmers were pretty cheap and resourceful.

[joedoh]

yeah good advice, have yours temp and pressure tested at the local rad shop before you commit to a fan motor. you may need another.

and there are plenty out there. i just looked at a tilt trailer and the guy had a collection of about 12-15. he wanted $100ea! I didnt break his heart but I never got more than $10 for one.

[mick53]

Originally Posted by joedoh

yeah good advice, have yours temp and pressure tested at the local rad shop before you commit to a fan motor. you may need another.

and there are plenty out there. i just looked at a tilt trailer and the guy had a collection of about 12-15. he wanted $100ea! I didnt break his heart but I never got more than $10 for one.

Maybe that's why he has 12-15 of them. I just gave away a whole working heater and core to a fellow bolter that needed it and I didn't. Some things are more important than money.

[mick53]

I have never dealt with this but can't you just get the specs and order one from somewhere like McMaster Carr? They seem to have everything and their shipping is faster than Amazon on their best day. Just a thought. Thank you for your time.

[mr48chev]

I saw a guy on FB ask 200 for a deluxe heater the other day that looked like it needed a full restoration. It didn't look much better than the ones I have in the shed but he seemed proud of it.

Still with the cost of heater cores for them and having to swap motors to 12 Volts in most cases you are going to have around 300 in one even if you already have one or get one from Joedoe or myself for about the price of a Whopper meal or less.

Motors run around 50 new https://www.classicparts.com/1947-63...ctinfo/68-009/

The correct thermostatic controlled heater valve is 150 to rebuild with a 100 dollar core if you don't have one https://www.classicparts.com/1947-54...ctinfo/68-105/

https://store.fillingstation.com/det...E_REBUILD.html

A fresh air heater core runs around 269 from most places now and all of the truck trinket places prices are within pocket change of each other.

https://www.classicparts.com/1947-52...ctinfo/68-221/

https://store.fillingstation.com/det...ATER_CORE.html


I know we all have different ideas and wants for our trucks but you really have to want Original to spend that much extra money over

For a new box heater that you can stick up out of the way under the dash (heat only) you can pretty well take your choice for under 200 https://www.summitracing.com/search/...ater&kr=heater

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

for about the price of a Whopper meal or less.

hmm. I hadnt considered it but whopper meals might just be the perfect currency. everyone gets what they want, buyer gets a heater, burger king gets money, and I get a whopper and onion rings.

[mr48chev]

Sometime about 1988 I replaced the heater core in my 48. I was working at Bowdens Auto parts in Sunnyside, Wa part time and while my wages weren't that great I got my parts at warehouse cost. I remember even then a new name brand heater core cost me close to 40 bucks my cost. List was 80 something and over the counter at that store was about 65.

The bad thing with the replacements for the stock core is that there are only one or two places selling one rated for 15 lbs. Most of them are still rated at 4 lbs.

[Second Series]

I ran the original 6v blower motor on 12v for awhile, it really screamed. The original switch gave in and I got a new blower switch from one of the vendors, the plastic knob melted after awhile and the wire resistor broke. I decided to get a 12v motor. This was over 20 years ago so the internet was not an option. I took the 6v motor to the local auto parts store and matched it up to a modern replacement. The 12v motor was a little smaller, but it worked for many years, still works. The heater core eventually developed a leak, so I took it to the local radiator repair shop. They hooked it up to air and put it in a vat, but found no leak. The shop foreman said to increase pressure since it’s not uncommon for these to get used with a newer engine with higher pressure. They did and found the leak and fixed it. I had put a newer engine in it, a ’54 235 in the ’47 truck.
I looked for the receipt but didn’t find it, so I took some pictures of what I have. With the number on the label “PM3608X” I was able to find it is a Siemens blower motor I originally purchased at Napa. I don’t see it on their website, but you might find they have something that works. They have a few motors without squirrel cage, and many with. You might find one with a squirrel cage and swap that out for the original. Make sure the motor isn’t too big, and the shaft size is correct. Here’s a link to the motor I used (only one left) for $45, I think I paid $35 20 years ago.
https://www.bmebearings.com/products...motor-12-volts
Another option, you might find a motor shop to rewind the original to 12v.
Well, I just looked and you can get a replacement from one of the on-line vendors…
https://www.classicchevy.com/1949-19...-252023-1.html
And, I just re-read this thread including everything that was added since last week when I first read it. I guess I’m late to the party.

[leegreen]

try one of these:
INFINITI G20 1991-1996
NISSAN MAXIMA 1989-1994
NISSAN SENTRA 1991-1994

part number for new ones is TYC 700085
I got one on Amazon for $14 a couple years back, but they seem to be more like $50 now.

The fan is about perfect and the mounting flange will bolt up with a couple self tappers. You might need a slight spacer under flange to stop edge of flange from rubbing. The motor is much smaller than the AD unit, it will fit inside the firewall and you can blank off that big hole for original motor.

I used a $15 20 amp PWM controller off amazon to control the speed, it works great. from zero rpm up to full speed. disclaimer: although both fan and controller have been tested a few times the truck is not yet a daily driver so longevity has not been confirmed.

this is the only photo I have showing fan in place

[mr48chev]

I robbed a 12V motor out of a donor rig years ago when I still had the fresh air heater in my 48 before the replacement core I bought and put in in the mid 70's in Texas died of old age or a high pressure cap.

I can't remember what it came out of but it was a common unit.

What you have to be concerned with besides 12 V are shaft diameter and the spacing of the mounting screws.
This one from Brothers priced at 60 bucks.