Double pumper Holley problem.....

[ellisjay2]

I've tore apart a 4150 and reassembled with new kit. Problem originally was starvation of fuel....was not spraying out of nozzles but running on choke. Cleaned out fuel tank, fuel lines, tore apart carb, soaked cleaned, all passages clear when blowing carb spray or air......I got it from someone that I believed let it sit up. With a new diaphragm, on both primary and secondary pumps, new brass floats, needle and seats, fuel will not make it to the passages up to spray nozzle. Ive done about all there is to trouble shooting, only thing I can think is the metering blocks are bad....it sits on my stock 350, engine will run, but no spray when opening throttle......I set fuel bowls to right levels.....

[ellisjay2]

Had problems posting pic to my previous lost of Holley fuel problem...

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

When I was tracking down my original engines carb issues. I pulled the squirter assembly out, and blew out the orifices from the top down. Also the diaphragm may be ripped?

[ellisjay2]

I blew carb cleaner through main body with bow off and watched it spray through nozzles. The diaphragm is new from kit I just ordered, don't see any rips....can hear and feel air squirt through pump on bowl if I pump with finger....not sure if it's pumping strong or not but I feel air.

The bowls I have are old styles, and I pulled the brass check ball out and used red umbrella, but I notice old bowls have groves where umbrella goes. Ive seen the red umbrella checks in newer bowls with flat areas where umbrella sits......if that's the case I'd need new bowls.

What's crazy is it will idle when running and opening throttle it builds up rpm, but there's nothing squirting out prime or secondary, how is it possible for it to run??

[Pontiac1976]

The third pic the squitter is the Philips screw in front of the front vent tube, as I said it does not squirt from there except no throttle floored or half throttle with foot pressure then once the vacuum of pump shot is used up, It doe not pump gas out the squitter any more un till you take your foot off the gas peddle and stomp it down so if you want it to keep squirting you would have to floor gas peddle let your foot off the peddle stomp to the floor and keep retting that on off the gas peddle. The only give you extra squirt of gas on half to full throttle for about 1-1/2 to 2 second to give you a boot hard take off.

[ellisjay2]

Okay...but shouldn't I see some squirt action when fuel bowls are full and I'm there manually moving throttle even before cranking, evey one I've seen working on other motors sprays out nozzles once bowls are full running or not....I can send link of YouTube vid of squirter problem 4150 dp not squirting then once fixed, you get squirts moving throttle.....

https://youtu.be/zJxExHZtPAg

[ellisjay2]

Okay...but shouldn't I see some squirt action when fuel bowls are full and I'm there manually moving throttle even before cranking, evey one I've seen working on other motors sprays out nozzles once bowls are full running or not....I can send link of YouTube vid of squirter problem 4150 dp not squirting then once fixed, you get squirts moving throttle.....

https://youtu.be/zJxExHZtPAg

[68post]

It's obvious that you've missed something in cleaning it or it's an assembly problem. You can chase some passages with torch tip cleaning needles.

Are you only missing fuel from the accelerator pump nozzles, or are you not getting fuel from the boosters ? (or both)

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by 68post

It's obvious that you've missed something in cleaning it or it's an assembly problem. You can chase some passages with torch tip cleaning needles.

Are you only missing fuel from the accelerator pump nozzles, or are you not getting fuel from the boosters ? (or both)

At one point, the secondary boosters were dripping fuel, I learned that's a indication of too high of float level....lowered it and stopped dripping..this happened also with primaries...lowered level to stop dripage. So both as you asked.

I've got torch cleaning tips...and have ran through all passages....if I can spray carb cleaner clearly through passages how is there still blockage??

[Pontiac1976]

Ok the last pic of bowl there is office in the pump shot try compressed air @20PSI watch eyes, make sure it not plugged and the gasket near the center steel make sure it not cracking if it is replace it.
Oh make sure the bottom spring tension set (leaver arm)

[raceman6135]

I'm having some trouble understanding your exact problem and questions, but I can tell you for sure: you cannot mix and match the float bowls and accelerator pump check valve styles.

By that I mean that if the float bowls are like the one posted, it MUST use the check ball staked with the small metal rod. You CANNOT use the red rubber umbrella style check valves. And vice versa: you can't use a metal check ball if the bowl is designed for umbrella style check valves.

The engine will still start and run with incorrectly set up accelerator pumps. It will still also accelerate, but it will not be as smooth and/or as quick because fuel will still flow through the idle circuit until the main fuel circuit is called to supply fuel through the jets. The accelerator pumps are designed to supply the extra fuel needed when the throttle plates are opened more quickly than what the vacuum signal can draw fuel through the main system.

I do not believe there is anything wrong with the metering blocks. Sort out the mismatched accelerator pump / fuel bowl situation first and then go from there.

[ellisjay2]

Originally Posted by raceman6135

I'm having some trouble understanding your exact problem and questions, but I can tell you for sure: you cannot mix and match the float bowls and accelerator pump check valve styles.

By that I mean that if the float bowls are like the one posted, it MUST use the check ball staked with the small metal rod. You CANNOT use the red rubber umbrella style check valves. And vice versa: you can't use a metal check ball if the bowl is designed for umbrella style check valves.

The engine will still start and run with incorrectly set up accelerator pumps. It will still also accelerate, but it will not be as smooth and/or as quick because fuel will still flow through the idle circuit until the main fuel circuit is called to supply fuel through the jets. The accelerator pumps are designed to supply the extra fuel needed when the throttle plates are opened more quickly than what the vacuum signal can draw fuel through the main system.

I do not believe there is anything wrong with the metering blocks. Sort out the mismatched accelerator pump / fuel bowl situation first and then go from there.

After learning more about bowls and pumps, that's what I noticed. The bowls are the original ones, I just changed the check ball out and used umbrellas, which I thought you could do, since they came in gasket kit. I also replaced diaphragms with new ones, new power valve 6.5, needle and seats and all gaskets.

Problem now is I can't find the ball style check valve anywhere, summit has same style bowls, but set up for umbrella valves. So I'm guessing get same style bowls but that will work for umbrella valves.