What are these rims off my 68 and will 7.5x16' Bias Ply Fit Them

[murguia]

Hello everyone,

I had some time to take off the steelies and they are stamped GY R5516 TS and then a uniqe mark next to that. I have a buddy who is giving me a good deal on some hardly used 7.5.16 LT Bias Ply's but I'm wondering if they'll fit this rim?

What is everyones thoughts on what these rims were originally to?

Does the 55 mean 5.5"?

Thanks for the help,

Nick

[Grumpy old man]

Those rims were original to your truck , They are split rims and "DANGEROUS " when removing and replacing tires because the ring can dislodge from the wheel . No tire shops will touch them .Time to buy some new rims .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U31d7ownTlc

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Those rims were original to your truck , They are split rims and "DANGEROUS " when removing and replacing tires because the ring can dislodge from the wheel . No tire shops will touch them .Time to buy some new rims .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U31d7ownTlc

These arent splits they are retainer/lock ring rims . Splits also known as widowmakers were two piece . Any truck shop will do these I have the HD 17 inch or AR

The RH-5 are widowmakers and large truck shops still do them

Around 9.43 they have a nice cutaway view of a split rim
https://youtu.be/BuFaNv9y29c

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 72c20customcamper

These arent splits they are retainer ring rims . Splits also known as widowmakers were two piece . Any truck shop will do these

Those were OEM on my K20 with 7.50-16 tires. I have heard them called lock-ring (or locking ring) wheels. 'Retainer rings' is a new one to me -- I wonder if the difference is a regional thing?

You are correct that truck shops will work on them -- but in my experience, typical run-of-the-mill tire shops will refuse. As with anything, there may be exceptions.

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Those were OEM on my K20 with 7.50-16 tires. I have heard them called lock-ring (or locking ring) wheels. 'Retainer rings' is a new one to me -- I wonder if the difference is a regional thing?

You are correct that truck shops will work on them -- but in my experience, typical run-of-the-mill tire shops will refuse. As with anything, there may be exceptions.

I edited my post as I’ve always called them retainer ring . But here is what is on my truck . It’s actually easy to change the tire in the field that’s why most farm trucks had them . These are slightly different than the OPs as they are three piece

[Steeveedee]

I worked in a gas station for 6+ years. I sold/repaired/changed many of the old split rim tires, up to 20" on some of the fleet trucks we serviced. You just have to be really careful and stand well away when inflating. I never had one separate. That was over 40 years ago, though. Those things were common as dirt back then.

[murguia]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Those were OEM on my K20 with 7.50-16 tires. I have heard them called lock-ring (or locking ring) wheels. 'Retainer rings' is a new one to me -- I wonder if the difference is a regional thing?

You are correct that truck shops will work on them -- but in my experience, typical run-of-the-mill tire shops will refuse. As with anything, there may be exceptions.

Will these locking ring rims work with tubeless and tires with tubes? Or do they have to have tube tires?

[murguia]

I just had them removed with no issues and they said it wouldn’t be a problem to mount and balance them? They did say not all shops know how to do so though.

The rings and rims are all in great shape with no bends or cracks. Do I really need to get new rims???

[Grumpy old man]

I'd buy new rims and tires but it's your truck . How old are the tires your looking at using ? With split rim wheels you'll need liners and tubes If you have a flat you'll have to find someone to change the tube and Most shops won't work on them , The best thing you can do for your truck is buy new rims and tires , It's safer/ easier and you'll have less issues down the road .

I'd scrap them , They're just not worth the hassle .

[special-K]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I'd buy new rims and tires but it's your truck . How old are the tires your looking at using ? With split rim wheels you'll need liners and tubes If you have a flat you'll have to find someone to change the tube and Most shops won't work on them , The best thing you can do for your truck is buy new rims and tires , It's safer/ easier and you'll have less issues down the road .

I'd scrap them , They're just not worth the hassle .

It's good to know your opinion and I understand how you have arrived at it. But it's just an opinion. The fact is, if a tire shop knows how to do it they are not dangerous. Another fact is there are fewer and fewer tire jockeys who know how to deal with them. I'd wager many never even saw one before. And, many shops are not equipped to consider dealing with them even is they do employ a fully knowledgeable tire jockey. For decades, even half a century or more, these rims have been used and the amount of accidents with them is a very small percentage. All this does explain why you say get rid of them because this equates to inconvenience. But never say "scrap them" when it comes to original factory equipment. Not everyone has the same desires toward this hobby and/or towards their use of their truck. There are many who can appreciate the historic value and desire 100% correct restorations. There are two national historic truck clubs that have existed since 1971 when these trucks were new that put on major shows hosting 1,000 trucks or more annually. The "scrap them" mentality has landed many more inline 6 Chevy engines, HO52 rears, QuadraJet carbs, steelie wheels, valuable steering wheels & hubcaps and AM radios/speakers into the scrap pile. You may agree on how foolish this is when you think about it.

[72c20customcamper]

We used to use a chain snaked through the hup around the rim tire with about three loops and used a chain shortener to keep it tight . If we were at my uncle home he would use the front bucket to restrain the rim so nothing would fly when changing a tire on one of tractors or field trailers


Just don’t let this guy do it

[Stocker]

As long as you understand the caveats, they will still work. Grumpy is right, most tire shops won't touch them, probably due to the very real danger and associated insurance liability. You're probably right about 5.5" wide.... I remember them as no wider than 6". If you decide to use them, they will require tubes and liners.

[Stocker]

It's been years since I first posted about this, but I guess one more time won't hurt.

When I bought my K20 in 1977, the dealer had installed a new set of 7.50-16(D) highway tires on the split rims (oops, locking ring wheels -- old habits are hard to break). Highway tires on a 4x4? I drove it straight to a tire shop to trade for Armstrong Rhino mud & snows. One wheel just would not balance. The guy got frustrated, finally gave up and removed the tire, only to find the brand-new liner still folded up inside the tire.

He put it back together, finished the job with a successful balance, thanked me for my business, and asked me to please not come back as long as I had those wheels. If he is still alive, I bet he still remembers....

[murguia]

Thank you everyone. Not trying to devalue anyone’s opinion, just trying to gain knowledge on my truck and what I have. This dialogue is very helpful.

[CG]

Just learned something today. When I was a kid we called these lock ring wheels. I never had them on anything, but dont remember them coming up as dangerous.

Years ago when I joined the board they were talking about how dangerous split rims were and at that time I thought they looked like what I called lock rings wheels. So ever since then Ive called them all split rims thinking that they were one and the same. Today I find out they are two different types of wheels.

I changed a lot of flats when I was a kid working at the Shell station in the 70's. Dont remember ever working on either kinds of these wheels.

[Stocker]

They don't have an airtight seal, so tubes are a requirement. Also liners which fit around the wheel to prevent the wheel surface from destroying the tube.

EDIT: I mis-read your question. I don't see any reason not to run tubeless tires -- as long as you use a tube and liner.

[factorystock]

This rim is not originally off a 60's GM pickup, it must have came off a generic 50's-60's trailer. Many manufactures of trailers back then used "commercial type" rims for durability. Another drawback of using this rim is, because it is not a period correct GM pickup wheel, it will not accept the period correct '68 hubcap.

[ghackett1]

I remember back in the 70’s they would put split rims in this cage fixture when they would inflate them just in case they dislodged and the ring came flying off.

[factorystock]

Originally Posted by ghackett1

just in case they dislodged and the ring came flying off.

They need to be assembled by a professional who knows what there doing. Yeah, even his service truck has "commercial" lock ring wheels. Note wheel is not a "drop center" type, these wheels are "flat base" type.

[Stocker]

[Steeveedee]

That looks a lot like my eldest son, though he wouldn't be caught dead in a t-shirt with a hammer & sickle on it, since he's a Tech SGT in the USAF.