how do you make lowering blocks? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

69ride · 01-17-2004, 08:17 PM

I see lots of questions on what size to use for certain applications, But how do you make them. I'm sure I am capable of making them but i just need a step in the right direction. how do you go about making them.

SCOTI · 01-17-2004, 08:27 PM

You could use some thick walled (.1875 min) 2" square tubing & drill the required holes for the u-bolts using the shock brackets as your template. Make some sleeves to slip inside the square tubing for extra support. These need to be the correct diameter of the u-bolt shaft & should be an interference fit (cut them a little long & grind them down until you can tap them in place w/a hammer). This will cost you the price of steel + an afternoon of your time. You'll still need some longer u-bolts available from a couple of the board vendors or your local high quality industrial bolt shop.

Tx Firefighter · 01-17-2004, 10:31 PM

I always use thick wall square tubing. I box the ends just for aesthetic purposes. The wall thickness doesn't really warrant any additional boxing, but it looks more pro when you do.

Longer U bolts from a spring shop usually cost me 28 per pair. Just take one of your stock u bolts to the spring shop and tell them to make a set like them except 2 inches longer.

69ride · 01-18-2004, 01:25 AM

thanks man. the pic really helps.

Injected68LS1 · 01-18-2004, 04:17 AM

It depends on how much you drop you are going for. If you just want a little drop I would buy some aluminum bar that is wide enough for the pad and has the other dimension the amount of drop you want. Then you cut the bar to the right length and drill the correct size holes in them. I think this would work best for 0-2 inches. Thick wall tubing steel always works good too.

*1972C10* · 01-19-2004, 06:20 AM

Ive got a set that was made from old trailin arms 3" and there for sale lol.

dubie · 01-19-2004, 06:38 PM

good idea for lowering!! Do you have to remove your rear coils to do this?? or can you just make the block, slip it inot place and bolt it back up? I'm thinking about doing this to my flatbed project and then cutting a coil off my front springs

Tx Firefighter · 01-19-2004, 06:55 PM

No man, you don't touch the rear coils at all. Just the u bolts.

dubie · 01-20-2004, 04:54 PM

Hey Tx, how does your truck ride with blocks and cut springs?? i believe it was you that also cut the front springs wasn't it?? Do you have a pic of the truck with this lowering job done on it?

Tx Firefighter · 01-20-2004, 05:00 PM

Dubie, the rear lowering blocks have absolutely zero effect on ride quality. Zero at all.

Front, cutting one coil makes it ride more like a Mustang or Camaro. It takes all of the float out of it. Basically, it rides exactly like a store bought lowering spring does.

My wife scanned two pictures of my old trucks last night.

Both of them had cut springs in the front. Both of them, I drove over 100k miles each without any problems or complaints at all.

That's why I get so mad when someone spouts off some "I heard that cutting springs causes the wheels to fall off" or whatever. Things like that were said by people who sell lowering springs or magazine articles for advertisers that sell lowering springs.

*1972C10* · 01-20-2004, 05:02 PM

I Cut a coil and a half out of my front springs and bought rear lowering springs i never could loate any u bolts to use them blocks and i found some rear springs for 69 a pair.

dubie · 01-20-2004, 05:02 PM

yeah i've heard that you don't wanna cut springs because it affects the integrity of the coil. That's BS!! it only effects it if you heat them or cut them with a torch. I'm cutting mine for sure

Tx Firefighter · 01-20-2004, 05:02 PM

This one had cut springs in front and drop spindles for 5 inch total drop. It rode as good as stock.

When I put the 17 inch wheels on it, the ride got harsher though

*1972C10* · 01-20-2004, 05:03 PM

We cut mine with a chop saw little heat Then when i was done i kinda took the edge off with an angle grindler cause factory springs have a little flat part at the bottom.

dubie · 01-20-2004, 06:38 PM

Looks like 69ride and I are gonna do a weekend of lower each others trucks in the coming weeks. We both work at the same shop up here in the great white north. Well, he works here, I just supervise

69ride · 01-20-2004, 06:55 PM

right you just supervise

you just distract me and cause me to mess up so any mistakes i make are your fault.

IoWnZa · 01-21-2004, 02:04 AM

Feel the love

I am thinking about Bagging, or just straight lowering the Blazer, but I can't decide what to do, I wanna keep my 32's...

/IoWnZa

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 01-25-2004, 10:36 AM

We stock the longer u bolts for blocks. As far as cutting coils, if done with a cut off wheel and a grinder no problems that I have heard of but heating them is a bad idea.

*1972C10* · 01-25-2004, 06:50 PM

Do You have any 3 " inches longer than stock? how much?

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 01-25-2004, 07:58 PM

Sorry only stock and 2'longer in our catalog suspension section, if you want 3'longer we can make them next week 38.00 a pair, they are heavy grade 8 with rolled threads, tall nuts and washers.

*1972C10* · 01-25-2004, 08:04 PM

The 2" longer may work seems the stock ones hang out the bottom a good bit whats the overal measurement from the inside of the top u bolt to the bottom of the threads?

And how much do the 2" go for ..

Im just in the sitiuation where i could do springs for 60

Just lookin over all options

And thanks for the info

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 01-25-2004, 09:21 PM

34.00 for 2' longer. What kind / brand of springs are 60.00?

*1972C10* · 01-25-2004, 09:24 PM

I dont recall what brand they were i got the 4" from aim.

MOTHERTRUCKERS · 01-26-2004, 12:11 AM

If I remember correctly they are made overseas and not progressive rate springs. Get a good adjustable track arm and some high quality shocks to make up for the poor quality coils and you might be o k.

*1972C10* · 01-26-2004, 01:04 AM

Ive been running them awhile so far i havent had any problems i have thought about makin an adjustable track bar but havent got around to it..

They seem to do good and give just right amount of give under accelartion I dont haul anything thin with the truck

They are the same diameter as a set of stock light duty springs.

01-17-2004, 08:17 PM	#1
69ride All Go, No Show Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Creighton SK Posts: 286	how do you make lowering blocks? I see lots of questions on what size to use for certain applications, But how do you make them. I'm sure I am capable of making them but i just need a step in the right direction. how do you go about making them.

01-17-2004, 08:27 PM	#2
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,066	You could use some thick walled (.1875 min) 2" square tubing & drill the required holes for the u-bolts using the shock brackets as your template. Make some sleeves to slip inside the square tubing for extra support. These need to be the correct diameter of the u-bolt shaft & should be an interference fit (cut them a little long & grind them down until you can tap them in place w/a hammer). This will cost you the price of steel + an afternoon of your time. You'll still need some longer u-bolts available from a couple of the board vendors or your local high quality industrial bolt shop. __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

01-17-2004, 10:31 PM	#3
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I always use thick wall square tubing. I box the ends just for aesthetic purposes. The wall thickness doesn't really warrant any additional boxing, but it looks more pro when you do. Longer U bolts from a spring shop usually cost me 28 per pair. Just take one of your stock u bolts to the spring shop and tell them to make a set like them except 2 inches longer. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-18-2004, 04:17 AM	#5
Injected68LS1 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: So. Cal. Posts: 389	It depends on how much you drop you are going for. If you just want a little drop I would buy some aluminum bar that is wide enough for the pad and has the other dimension the amount of drop you want. Then you cut the bar to the right length and drill the correct size holes in them. I think this would work best for 0-2 inches. Thick wall tubing steel always works good too. __________________ 1968 Chev SWB with 1998 Corvette LS1 305hp and 320 ftlb to the wheels (stock engine!) AEM EMS and wideband O2 sensors Bowtie Overdrive's 700R4, stage 3 Baer 4 wheel discs and 20s http://iciclelanding.com/aperture?album=2049&view=album

01-19-2004, 06:38 PM	#7
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,853	good idea for lowering!! Do you have to remove your rear coils to do this?? or can you just make the block, slip it inot place and bolt it back up? I'm thinking about doing this to my flatbed project and then cutting a coil off my front springs __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

01-18-2004, 01:25 AM	#4
69ride All Go, No Show Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Creighton SK Posts: 286	thanks man. the pic really helps.

01-19-2004, 06:20 AM	#6
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Ive got a set that was made from old trailin arms 3" and there for sale lol.

01-19-2004, 06:55 PM	#8
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	No man, you don't touch the rear coils at all. Just the u bolts. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin Last edited by Tx Firefighter; 01-20-2004 at 07:17 PM.

01-20-2004, 04:54 PM	#9
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,853	Hey Tx, how does your truck ride with blocks and cut springs?? i believe it was you that also cut the front springs wasn't it?? Do you have a pic of the truck with this lowering job done on it? __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

01-20-2004, 05:00 PM	#10
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Dubie, the rear lowering blocks have absolutely zero effect on ride quality. Zero at all. Front, cutting one coil makes it ride more like a Mustang or Camaro. It takes all of the float out of it. Basically, it rides exactly like a store bought lowering spring does. My wife scanned two pictures of my old trucks last night. Both of them had cut springs in the front. Both of them, I drove over 100k miles each without any problems or complaints at all. That's why I get so mad when someone spouts off some "I heard that cutting springs causes the wheels to fall off" or whatever. Things like that were said by people who sell lowering springs or magazine articles for advertisers that sell lowering springs. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

01-20-2004, 05:02 PM	#11
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	I Cut a coil and a half out of my front springs and bought rear lowering springs i never could loate any u bolts to use them blocks and i found some rear springs for 69 a pair.

01-20-2004, 05:03 PM	#14
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	We cut mine with a chop saw little heat Then when i was done i kinda took the edge off with an angle grindler cause factory springs have a little flat part at the bottom.

01-20-2004, 06:38 PM	#15
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,853	Looks like 69ride and I are gonna do a weekend of lower each others trucks in the coming weeks. We both work at the same shop up here in the great white north. Well, he works here, I just supervise __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

01-20-2004, 06:55 PM	#16
69ride All Go, No Show Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Creighton SK Posts: 286	right you just supervise you just distract me and cause me to mess up so any mistakes i make are your fault.

01-21-2004, 02:04 AM	#17
IoWnZa Big Block Blazer Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Ellsworth, ME. Posts: 509	Feel the love I am thinking about Bagging, or just straight lowering the Blazer, but I can't decide what to do, I wanna keep my 32's... /IoWnZa __________________ [1985 Chevrolet K5 Blazer][454BBC][TH400][NP241][Dana 44][GM 12 Bolt w/ Eaton LSD][Hedman HTC Hedders][Dual 2.5" Stainless Steel Exhaust][Hedman Turbo Muffler's][Dual Spal's 14" Electric Fan's][32x11.50R15 BF Goodrich All Terrain TA KO's on 15x8 Rallys]



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01-25-2004, 10:36 AM	#18
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	We stock the longer u bolts for blocks. As far as cutting coils, if done with a cut off wheel and a grinder no problems that I have heard of but heating them is a bad idea. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

01-25-2004, 06:50 PM	#19
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Do You have any 3 " inches longer than stock? how much?

01-25-2004, 07:58 PM	#20
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	Sorry only stock and 2'longer in our catalog suspension section, if you want 3'longer we can make them next week 38.00 a pair, they are heavy grade 8 with rolled threads, tall nuts and washers. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

01-25-2004, 08:04 PM	#21
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	The 2" longer may work seems the stock ones hang out the bottom a good bit whats the overal measurement from the inside of the top u bolt to the bottom of the threads? And how much do the 2" go for .. Im just in the sitiuation where i could do springs for 60 Just lookin over all options And thanks for the info

01-25-2004, 09:21 PM	#22
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	34.00 for 2' longer. What kind / brand of springs are 60.00? __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

01-25-2004, 09:24 PM	#23
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	I dont recall what brand they were i got the 4" from aim.

01-26-2004, 12:11 AM	#24
MOTHERTRUCKERS Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: BRADENTON FLA Posts: 3,269	If I remember correctly they are made overseas and not progressive rate springs. Get a good adjustable track arm and some high quality shocks to make up for the poor quality coils and you might be o k. __________________ Rest in Peace Ed. Thanks for all the good times.

01-26-2004, 01:04 AM	#25
1972C10 Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Texas Posts: 2,686	Ive been running them awhile so far i havent had any problems i have thought about makin an adjustable track bar but havent got around to it.. They seem to do good and give just right amount of give under accelartion I dont haul anything thin with the truck They are the same diameter as a set of stock light duty springs.

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