Cranks & Cranks.......& Cranks, but won't start! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72superBB · 02-19-2004, 03:55 PM

Cranks & Cranks.......& Cranks, but won't start!
What do I do?

Has gas.

Was running when I parked it 2 months ago.

Has a new fuel filter,

New distribiter cap & rotor (whetever it is called)(HEI)

Gas is getting to the carb

No wires are unhooked anywhere that I can tell.

What do I do?

Thanks
I posted this in the engine side, but I am in kind of a hurry.

Southpa · 02-19-2004, 03:59 PM

Process of elimination. Pull the spark plugs and see what condition they are in. Got a Haynes or Chilton manual? They have fairly good troubleshooting guides.

**CPNE** · 02-19-2004, 04:01 PM

Make sure you have 12V to HEI and then pull spark plug, ground it and see if you get a spark when cranking. If 12v to hEI and no spark, you need to investigate the HEI and module

72superBB · 02-19-2004, 04:01 PM

Spark plugs are brand new, gapped at .045.

I have a manual, but I thought maybe someone had a quicker way of trouble shooting this.

Thanks, I'll start reading.

Ron

Inthuwind · 02-19-2004, 04:14 PM

make sure your firing order is correct and plug wires are in order on your distibutor. Is it vacuum advance distibutor? Also, check out the "stator" and "resistor" in distributor. Hope this helps~~

67chevy2wd · 02-19-2004, 04:17 PM

just a thought but if it was me i would check the power wire to the distributer and see if it was chewed off by and mice.

bobbys1967 · 02-19-2004, 04:19 PM

I agree with CPNE. If there is 12V to the HEI and no spark, then it is your coil, module, or the pickup coil. Some auto parts stores have the ability to test the module and the coil. As for the pickup coil, It should say in your manual how to test it with an ohm meter. None of these parts are very expensive. Hope this helps

Bobby

Inthuwind · 02-19-2004, 04:20 PM

I reread your description...make sure your wires on the cap are in firing order with your vacuum advance. (if the vacuum advace points clockwise,put plug firing order clockwise)(counterclockwise,put plug firing order counterclockwise) __unless you knew that already

bobbys1967 · 02-19-2004, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Inthuwind
I reread your description...make sure your wires on the cap are in firing order with your vacuum advance. (if the vacuum advace points clockwise,put plug firing order clockwise)(counterclockwise,put plug firing order counterclockwise) __unless you knew that already

I've never seen the firing order on any chevrolet motor differ from clockwise.

Inthuwind · 02-19-2004, 04:34 PM

I was told that Pontiac and Chevy were the same--but the 400 Pontiac I had was counterclockwise~~sorry.

**MJN** · 02-19-2004, 06:10 PM

I would check the coil connections and try a different module inside the distributor. I had this problem before, P.O. converted to HEI but left the original power wire to the distributor there and kept burning out modules, changed the wire with one from a '76 truck and haven't had a problem since.

superfly68 · 02-19-2004, 07:31 PM

i'd start with oulling #1 plug wire and seeing if you have spark. if you have spark and gas. only other option is no air...check to see if the choke is closed. good luck. kep us informed!

72superBB · 02-19-2004, 08:37 PM

Replaced the module (thing that sits on top of the dist. under the dust cap), and still no luck.

I parked it in december running. It has had a tranny leak is why I have not driven it. I have done nothing to it except put in a tach (which I made sure i hooked it up right to the distributor as well.

WHat now?

Thanks for the help guys!

Ron

superfly68 · 02-19-2004, 08:40 PM

what carb are you running? manual choke? i had mine close somehow and the truck wouldn't run. are you getting spark?

72superBB · 02-19-2004, 08:47 PM

Holley 750 , manual choke

oldsub86 · 02-19-2004, 08:48 PM

Go back to basics. Check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark, then check to see if there is fuel at the carb. Open the choke and look down the carb and pull on the accelerator linkage to see if fuel sprays into the carb. If you have fuel and spark it should at least try to fire up.

If it was running when you parked it and the only thing you have done is add a tach then I would also check out the wiring for that especially where it connects to the distributor. Did you dislodge something or have you got the wires on in the right spot.

This is very basic and it has to be a simple answer.

72superBB · 02-19-2004, 08:55 PM

I cannot seem to get a spark from either on of the spark plug wires at the front of the motor. I have put a screwdriver into the plug and held it close to the wheel well and nothing.

WHat now or what is the next thing I check? Do I run a wire directly from the battery to the one side of the dist where it is currently connected?

Thanks

superfly68 · 02-19-2004, 09:00 PM

got to be the wiring.... check and double check that all connections are clean and tight.

72superBB · 02-19-2004, 09:02 PM

There is fuel, because I have seen the spray. Wiring is correct because it says BAT and TACH on the top of the dist. and that is how I hooked it up.

Is the wire that goes into the BAT side hot all the time? If it is, then I can check to see if there is power to that.

Thanks

Ron

72superBB · 02-19-2004, 09:08 PM

Ok, that wire is hot when the key is turned on. So I know there is power getting the that point.

jef5150 · 02-19-2004, 09:34 PM

Quote:

Ok, that wire is hot when the key is turned on. So I know there is power getting the that point.

i dont know much about h.e.i, but dont you need 12v in the" crank position" to get it started,and 12v in the "on" position to keep it running? i might be way off but just my .02 jeff

Inthuwind · 02-19-2004, 09:38 PM

my dad had the same problem with his monte carlo---came to be the stator under the rotor---also check condensor

Old Dave · 02-19-2004, 10:18 PM

It possibly could be the pickup coil (under the module) that triggers the distributor module. You can check it with an ohmeter by pulling the 2 prong plug off the left side of the module and checking the resistance on the yellow and green wires. It should read between 140-160 ohms. I am betting it's the module. Like somebody above said, a lot of auto parts stores have the capability to check these to see if they are bad.

*rage'nrat638* · 02-20-2004, 12:01 AM

TRY STARTING FLUID

FirstGen · 02-20-2004, 01:02 AM

I agree with Old Dave!

02-19-2004, 03:59 PM	#2
Southpa Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Victoria, BC, Canada Posts: 2,409	Process of elimination. Pull the spark plugs and see what condition they are in. Got a Haynes or Chilton manual? They have fairly good troubleshooting guides. __________________ 1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first.

02-19-2004, 04:01 PM	#3
CPNE Resident Curmudgeon Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: NH Posts: 6,662	Make sure you have 12V to HEI and then pull spark plug, ground it and see if you get a spark when cranking. If 12v to hEI and no spark, you need to investigate the HEI and module __________________ Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all

02-19-2004, 04:01 PM	#4
72superBB Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mandan, ND Posts: 422	Spark plugs are brand new, gapped at .045. I have a manual, but I thought maybe someone had a quicker way of trouble shooting this. Thanks, I'll start reading. Ron __________________ Life is full of choices and a Chevy is the best choice. 1990 Chevy SWB

02-19-2004, 04:14 PM	#5
Inthuwind Straight jacket required Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 882	make sure your firing order is correct and plug wires are in order on your distibutor. Is it vacuum advance distibutor? Also, check out the "stator" and "resistor" in distributor. Hope this helps~~ __________________ 1968 C10 Short Stepper 350/350 A/C P/S P/B Front disc 3/5 static/ 12bolt rear 3:73 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 10th Anniversary/455/4spd 2011 H-D Street Glide - CAMMED n lowered Dad always said,"Son, if you can't be good...be good at it."

02-19-2004, 04:19 PM	#7
bobbys1967 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 22	I agree with CPNE. If there is 12V to the HEI and no spark, then it is your coil, module, or the pickup coil. Some auto parts stores have the ability to test the module and the coil. As for the pickup coil, It should say in your manual how to test it with an ohm meter. None of these parts are very expensive. Hope this helps Bobby __________________ 1970 K10

02-19-2004, 03:55 PM	#1
72superBB Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mandan, ND Posts: 422	Cranks & Cranks.......& Cranks, but won't start! Cranks & Cranks.......& Cranks, but won't start! What do I do? Has gas. Was running when I parked it 2 months ago. Has a new fuel filter, New distribiter cap & rotor (whetever it is called)(HEI) Gas is getting to the carb No wires are unhooked anywhere that I can tell. What do I do? Thanks I posted this in the engine side, but I am in kind of a hurry. __________________ Life is full of choices and a Chevy is the best choice. 1990 Chevy SWB

02-19-2004, 04:17 PM	#6
67chevy2wd Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: New Salem, ND Posts: 1,558	just a thought but if it was me i would check the power wire to the distributer and see if it was chewed off by and mice.

02-19-2004, 04:20 PM	#8
Inthuwind Straight jacket required Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 882	I reread your description...make sure your wires on the cap are in firing order with your vacuum advance. (if the vacuum advace points clockwise,put plug firing order clockwise)(counterclockwise,put plug firing order counterclockwise) __unless you knew that already __________________ 1968 C10 Short Stepper 350/350 A/C P/S P/B Front disc 3/5 static/ 12bolt rear 3:73 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 10th Anniversary/455/4spd 2011 H-D Street Glide - CAMMED n lowered Dad always said,"Son, if you can't be good...be good at it."

02-19-2004, 04:34 PM	#10
Inthuwind Straight jacket required Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 882	I was told that Pontiac and Chevy were the same--but the 400 Pontiac I had was counterclockwise~~sorry. __________________ 1968 C10 Short Stepper 350/350 A/C P/S P/B Front disc 3/5 static/ 12bolt rear 3:73 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 10th Anniversary/455/4spd 2011 H-D Street Glide - CAMMED n lowered Dad always said,"Son, if you can't be good...be good at it."

02-19-2004, 06:10 PM	#11
MJN Registered User Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Maquoketa, Ia/ Orr, Mn Posts: 3,073	I would check the coil connections and try a different module inside the distributor. I had this problem before, P.O. converted to HEI but left the original power wire to the distributor there and kept burning out modules, changed the wire with one from a '76 truck and haven't had a problem since. __________________ '51 South Bend Model "9A" '56 Chevy 3600 NAPCO '74 Chevy Cheyenne Super K20-restored on 37's '72 GMC Sierra Custom K2500- in progress '08 GMC Envoy Denali '12 GMC Sierra 2500HD Denali '17 GMC Yukon XL VCCA member #58596 http://www.nohrco.com

02-19-2004, 07:31 PM	#12
superfly68 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Encinitas,CA Posts: 316	i'd start with oulling #1 plug wire and seeing if you have spark. if you have spark and gas. only other option is no air...check to see if the choke is closed. good luck. kep us informed! __________________ no longer have a ride, but still a fan!

02-19-2004, 08:37 PM	#13
72superBB Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mandan, ND Posts: 422	Replaced the module (thing that sits on top of the dist. under the dust cap), and still no luck. I parked it in december running. It has had a tranny leak is why I have not driven it. I have done nothing to it except put in a tach (which I made sure i hooked it up right to the distributor as well. WHat now? Thanks for the help guys! Ron __________________ Life is full of choices and a Chevy is the best choice. 1990 Chevy SWB

02-19-2004, 08:40 PM	#14
superfly68 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Encinitas,CA Posts: 316	what carb are you running? manual choke? i had mine close somehow and the truck wouldn't run. are you getting spark? __________________ no longer have a ride, but still a fan!

02-19-2004, 08:47 PM	#15
72superBB Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mandan, ND Posts: 422	Holley 750 , manual choke __________________ Life is full of choices and a Chevy is the best choice. 1990 Chevy SWB

02-19-2004, 08:48 PM	#16
oldsub86 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Canada Posts: 695	Go back to basics. Check for spark at the plugs. If you have spark, then check to see if there is fuel at the carb. Open the choke and look down the carb and pull on the accelerator linkage to see if fuel sprays into the carb. If you have fuel and spark it should at least try to fire up. If it was running when you parked it and the only thing you have done is add a tach then I would also check out the wiring for that especially where it connects to the distributor. Did you dislodge something or have you got the wires on in the right spot. This is very basic and it has to be a simple answer. __________________ 1968 Chevy - 292 with a powerglide



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02-19-2004, 08:55 PM	#17
72superBB Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mandan, ND Posts: 422	I cannot seem to get a spark from either on of the spark plug wires at the front of the motor. I have put a screwdriver into the plug and held it close to the wheel well and nothing. WHat now or what is the next thing I check? Do I run a wire directly from the battery to the one side of the dist where it is currently connected? Thanks __________________ Life is full of choices and a Chevy is the best choice. 1990 Chevy SWB

02-19-2004, 09:00 PM	#18
superfly68 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Encinitas,CA Posts: 316	got to be the wiring.... check and double check that all connections are clean and tight. __________________ no longer have a ride, but still a fan!

02-19-2004, 09:02 PM	#19
72superBB Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mandan, ND Posts: 422	There is fuel, because I have seen the spray. Wiring is correct because it says BAT and TACH on the top of the dist. and that is how I hooked it up. Is the wire that goes into the BAT side hot all the time? If it is, then I can check to see if there is power to that. Thanks Ron __________________ Life is full of choices and a Chevy is the best choice. 1990 Chevy SWB

02-19-2004, 09:08 PM	#20
72superBB Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Mandan, ND Posts: 422	Ok, that wire is hot when the key is turned on. So I know there is power getting the that point. __________________ Life is full of choices and a Chevy is the best choice. 1990 Chevy SWB

02-19-2004, 09:38 PM	#22
Inthuwind Straight jacket required Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: OKC, OK Posts: 882	my dad had the same problem with his monte carlo---came to be the stator under the rotor---also check condensor __________________ 1968 C10 Short Stepper 350/350 A/C P/S P/B Front disc 3/5 static/ 12bolt rear 3:73 1979 Pontiac Trans Am 10th Anniversary/455/4spd 2011 H-D Street Glide - CAMMED n lowered Dad always said,"Son, if you can't be good...be good at it."

02-19-2004, 10:18 PM	#23
Old Dave Is a bullfrog waterproof? Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: OLATHE, KANSAS Posts: 1,130	It possibly could be the pickup coil (under the module) that triggers the distributor module. You can check it with an ohmeter by pulling the 2 prong plug off the left side of the module and checking the resistance on the yellow and green wires. It should read between 140-160 ohms. I am betting it's the module. Like somebody above said, a lot of auto parts stores have the capability to check these to see if they are bad. __________________ "It is better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt." Ben Franklin __________________ 1970 Chevy shortbed 2002 Harley Custom Chopper (Long sucker) 1998 K2500 5.7L 5-speed Longbed 1st two are My son's toys...they just live in my garage! 1997 GMC K1500 Suburban 1993 S-10 Blazer 4D (youngest son's daily driver) 2000 Dodge Ram 4WD Ext. Cab (5.9L) Wife is a late year 1951

02-20-2004, 12:01 AM	#24
rage'nrat638 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: THE FALL GUY CHICAGO IL Posts: 5,883	TRY STARTING FLUID

02-20-2004, 01:02 AM	#25
FirstGen Just Don't Stop! Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Dallas Posts: 1,239	I agree with Old Dave! __________________ 1968 C10 build in process TT LSA/6L90e/9"

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