12-10-2004, 10:46 AM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: fairbanks alaska soon, tx now
Posts: 3
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too much rust
whats the best way to remove rust from the frame? i heard oven cleaner/CLR. will a shop put a lift kit on my blazer with all the rust on it? i want to make it easy for these guys to install my lift without breaking tools, and possibly the underside of my truck.
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12-10-2004, 12:42 PM | #2 |
SKINNY TIRES RULE!
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 11,038
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Welcome to the board!
How much rust are we talking? If your frame is rusted, you may want to either get it fixed or find a new frame asap. If it is just surface rust, it shouldn't be a problem. If rust is an issue, check the area around the sterring box to make sure it is solid before you add a lift and bigger tires. A good shop that installs lifts should be used to old trucks with nuts and bolts that may need some persuasion to remove. You may want to spray the nuts and bolts with something like PB Blaster the day before you take it into the shop to help loosen them up. How much lift are you adding? What size tires? Post some pictures of your truck when you get a chance.
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12-10-2004, 12:48 PM | #3 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,060
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Agree.. Pics are completely necessary.
My truck has completely benign surface rust on the frame. Not aesthetically pleasing, but it's definitely not stopping me from putting 5" more lift on. If you are talking holes and your frame is rusted through, that is a different story. Maybe redefine your rust situation and we can help better.
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12-10-2004, 01:05 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: fairbanks alaska soon, tx now
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pics of the rust
well i bought this truck from a guy in MN, $2300.00. i haven't seen it yet, these are just some pics that i asked him to send me. im new at this sort of thing so im not sure how bad the rust actually is.
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12-10-2004, 01:08 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Long Island NY
Posts: 293
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you're good to go buddy. Either hit that with a beed/sand blast lightly and cover it with some sort of cpc and you'll be good. Hey your'e a Blackhawk CC? I work on Pave's (rescue) electrician. We have rot like that on our birds....
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12-10-2004, 01:26 PM | #6 |
OBS guy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
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yup, that is benign surface stuff from what I see. Good to go! Body looks nice and straight and the door lines up good from what I can tell.
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12-10-2004, 02:10 PM | #7 |
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Location: houston,tx
Posts: 333
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The rust in the pix doesn't look too bad. Poke it here & there w/ a sharp awl or a screwdriver to see how deep the rust goes.
Sandblasting is the fastest way to remove rust on the frame. Be sure to follow up w/ a good rust converter/acid etch to minimize future rust bleed-through. For a short term fix, you may want to consider a "paint" product like Zero-Rust, Rust Encapsulator(from Eastwood), or POR-15. All of these products are designed to be applied directly to clean,grease free rust and do a good job until you have time to do it right. As far as which product works "best", I have used all 3 extensively and would recommend the Zero-Rust. It is the least expensive and works well. |
12-10-2004, 02:44 PM | #8 |
SKINNY TIRES RULE!
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 11,038
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The rust doesn't look bad. You should consider getting under there with a pressure washer and wash off any remains of the MN road salt and then do the paint solution mastercraftpk mentioned.
By the way, It looks to me like that truck might have a small lift, like 2" or so. It's hard to tell from the pics, but most of the original springs are either flat or a negative arch.
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12-10-2004, 03:47 PM | #9 |
go cyclones
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 1,883
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Well after seeing GeeM's blazer I don't think you have anything to worry about. You look like you got a pretty decent deal. Those look like pretty hefty roll bars back there.
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12-10-2004, 06:15 PM | #10 |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
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Welcome 2 the "BLAZER" club
Welcome 2 the board from West 10-UH-C
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