DJM 3" Spindle ?'s - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

jermasaurus · 02-25-2005, 07:52 PM

So I ordered the DJM 3" spindles and the Flip Kit. I was just wondering if anyone that has used these can post about any problems they ran into. I read somewhere that grinding at the caliper may be necessary with 15" wheels. Well... I have the 15" wheels, and I am hoping this will go smooth.
If anyone has had any problems please post it and let me know.
Any before and after pictures would be nice too, just to get an idea of how the truck may look. I am planning to do drop it 4/5.

Thanks

beaterC10 · 02-25-2005, 08:15 PM

I used Belltech 3" spindles and a DJM flip kit. Had a few minor problems.

Flip kit - There was some interference with the shock extender attaching bolts and the DJM supplied spring plates. I used a 4" grinder to grind a clearance slot in the plate and used a smaller bolt in one location. I can't remember which side it was.

Spring shackle and axle u-bolts - These were a real pain in the ###. Two of the shackle bolts were frozen by rust in the spring eyes on the rear shackles. The shackle bolts and spring sleeves are hardened, they will eat sawzall blades. If you live in the rust belt, soak the hardware with penetrant and be prepared to use a smoke wrench.

Front spindles - Had to grind the lower edge (in the area of the ball joint) of the lower control arm off to get clearance with the wheel lip. It will be obvious what has to be ground when you get it together. Be sure to turn the wheels lock to lock in both directions and simulate ride height when you do this. It may look like you have plenty of clearance with the truck on stands and the suspension at full droop. A lot of the apparent clearance will go away with the truck on the ground. Also had to tweak the banjo ends of the flex lines to the calipers to get clearance.

jermasaurus · 02-25-2005, 08:45 PM

Thanks for your info. What is best to cut things like the control arm lip? Would a standard cut off tool be good? BTW... I just bought an air chisel yesterday-to persuade the leaf spring bolts out.

beaterC10 · 02-26-2005, 09:05 AM

I used a 4" hand held electric grinder to grind the control arms. It only took about 15-20 minutes per side. Some of that time was for installing and removing the wheels to check my progress. I started by removing the rolled lip from the edge in the area around the ball joint and back approx 1-2" on each side. When I was done the I ended up removing enough material in the ball joint pocket that the lower edge of the joint was exposed.

The only problem with the grinder was the ringing in my ears for a while afterward.

02-25-2005, 07:52 PM	#1
jermasaurus Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: New Lenox, IL Posts: 442	DJM 3" Spindle ?'s So I ordered the DJM 3" spindles and the Flip Kit. I was just wondering if anyone that has used these can post about any problems they ran into. I read somewhere that grinding at the caliper may be necessary with 15" wheels. Well... I have the 15" wheels, and I am hoping this will go smooth. If anyone has had any problems please post it and let me know. Any before and after pictures would be nice too, just to get an idea of how the truck may look. I am planning to do drop it 4/5. Thanks

02-25-2005, 08:15 PM	#2
beaterC10 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,277	I used Belltech 3" spindles and a DJM flip kit. Had a few minor problems. Flip kit - There was some interference with the shock extender attaching bolts and the DJM supplied spring plates. I used a 4" grinder to grind a clearance slot in the plate and used a smaller bolt in one location. I can't remember which side it was. Spring shackle and axle u-bolts - These were a real pain in the ###. Two of the shackle bolts were frozen by rust in the spring eyes on the rear shackles. The shackle bolts and spring sleeves are hardened, they will eat sawzall blades. If you live in the rust belt, soak the hardware with penetrant and be prepared to use a smoke wrench. Front spindles - Had to grind the lower edge (in the area of the ball joint) of the lower control arm off to get clearance with the wheel lip. It will be obvious what has to be ground when you get it together. Be sure to turn the wheels lock to lock in both directions and simulate ride height when you do this. It may look like you have plenty of clearance with the truck on stands and the suspension at full droop. A lot of the apparent clearance will go away with the truck on the ground. Also had to tweak the banjo ends of the flex lines to the calipers to get clearance. Last edited by beaterC10; 02-25-2005 at 08:23 PM.

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02-25-2005, 08:45 PM	#3
jermasaurus Registered User Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: New Lenox, IL Posts: 442	Thanks for your info. What is best to cut things like the control arm lip? Would a standard cut off tool be good? BTW... I just bought an air chisel yesterday-to persuade the leaf spring bolts out.

02-26-2005, 09:05 AM	#4
beaterC10 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Indianapolis, IN Posts: 1,277	I used a 4" hand held electric grinder to grind the control arms. It only took about 15-20 minutes per side. Some of that time was for installing and removing the wheels to check my progress. I started by removing the rolled lip from the edge in the area around the ball joint and back approx 1-2" on each side. When I was done the I ended up removing enough material in the ball joint pocket that the lower edge of the joint was exposed. The only problem with the grinder was the ringing in my ears for a while afterward.



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