Cab Bushings Gone Horribly Wrong!

[jermasaurus]

I went outside to change my front two cab bushings, sprayed them with some rust penetrant, and started to go.

I went to break the drivers front loose and the bolt just twisted in half right where it goes into the body. It is way too hot out to mess with this and be pissed at the same time so I figured I would come inside for some suggestions.

Anyone know what to do? The stuck part is not really sticking out far enough to grab it. Should I attempt to drill it out and rethread it? I wish I had a picture, but I don't. Any advice?
-Jeremy

[MylilBowTie]

I'm in the same boat as you, I still haven't fixed mine yet. So far I was lucky and only broke one bolt but I haven't started on the other side yet.

If anyone has a picture how its setup or one that has a cross view somehow that would be really nice. From what I remember there a cab mount boxed section for the mount and a nut welded or tacked to the floorboard. I myself thought about removing the boxed section of the cab mount but I don't really want to mess with that having the cab still on the truck.

I'm working on getting a picture for you. Its really humid and warm outside and the camera has been in the ac all day so went I took it outside it formed lots of condensation. So after it adjusts to the outside temp and humidity I will be able to take the picture.

[MylilBowTie]

Here is the picture if you need a better or different one let me know.

[1FaastC10]

i had the same problem when i pulled the cab off of my 86. remove the carpet and padding from the area directly above the offending bolt. remove the other bolt from that side. use a torch to get it good and hot (i used mapp gas), and turn it out with a small pipe wrench.

[jermasaurus]

So I can get to the captive nut by removing the carpet and padding? I pulled it up hastily, but didn't see anything. I thought it was inside the square tubing under the floor or somthing. It was too hot and I just didn't want to be out there- I'll take a more careful look tomorow at the situation.

That picture is pretty much what I have going on, the bolt twisted right at the top of that metal sleeve. Thanks
-Jeremy

[MylilBowTie]

Here is a better picture, that last one looked like the bolt that broke off. Its the metal part of the top cab gm cab mount. Mine is pretty much broke off right at the bottom wall of the cab mount support. So would still need to cut the floor? How is it constructed?

[Captkaos]

You have to cut and access hole in the floor to get to the captured nut.

[gn4u2c]

can you say air chisel .

[Phuloi68]

Don't know if this will help. it is something I did and it worked out good for me. I cut the head off of a bolt, beveled the end, and welded it to the area where the old bolt broke and was able to put a washer and nut on the bottom side. I tack welded the nut so it would not vibrate off. Worked out fine.

[jermasaurus]

I think i am gonna first try my luck at drilling it out and running a tap through. If that doesn't work, I will probably cut a hole in the floor and work somthing out.

That second picture is exactly what I am stuck with. Thanks
-Jeremy

[1FaastC10]

thats exactly what i had too. heat, and a small pipe wrench. the one i used was only 4-5" long. came right out.

[MylilBowTie]

So you cut the floorboard of the cab Jeremy? I'm not really sure what all to expect in doing this, I've never done it and want to do it right the first time around. Could you elaborate more on what you did to repair yours? Sorry for being a pain..

[1FaastC10]

no, i never once cut the floor. heat, and while its still hot, small pipe wrench to pull it out. as you get to the end, be very careful. drop it, and you have no idea where its gonna roll/bounce to.

[87 STEPPER]

Man i feel sorry for you guys in the rust belt states we dont have that kind of problem with fastners down here in Fla.

I think id'e knock it out with a air hammer and then get a new blot from a junk yard if your able to find a good one or buy a new one from LMC Truck.

[MylilBowTie]

Originally Posted by 1FaastC10

no, i never once cut the floor. heat, and while its still hot, small pipe wrench to pull it out. as you get to the end, be very careful. drop it, and you have no idea where its gonna roll/bounce to.

So did you heat the floor inside the cab then or just the broken bolt on the underside of the cab? I can get a small pipe wrench. But I'm wondering about breaking off the rest of the very small part of the bolt left in the cab mount nut that I want to get the rest of the broken bolt out. So I guess I'm asking if you think there is enough bolt left to get it out with a pipe wrench. I can put a metal pan under the cab to help catch the very hot broken bolt. I bought new grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers from boltdepot.com to replace the old ones. I tried to order from gm first but couldn't find any bolts just the bolt specs. As for the heat source I have is a small propane bottle with a torch tip. Would that be hot enough or do I need something better?

The back cab mount bolt got out looked like a coke bottle with the curves it had. That's why I am assuming that the front cab mount bolt broke with the lack of metal left in the middle making it weak.

I still need to get new cab mount bushings and decided to stop messing with it before I made anything else worse.

[jermasaurus]

Alright, I'm done- With the front two but thats all I am worried about for the moment.

For the one that broke off, I had to cut a hole in the floor and use a bolt extractor to get it out after heating it up for a little while. I replaced it with a nut and bolt instead of using the one in there. The captive nut is not actually welded in place, it just fits perfectly into its square hole.

I also did the passenger side. I sprayed it with a lot of penetrating oil, and left a propane torch firing at it for about 10 minutes. (Pull the carpet up if you try this)
Then I slightly tightened it before loosening it. It came out fine and I was able to re-use that bolt.

I learned my lesson and should have just torched it to begin with. Now I have a hole in my floor, but at least it only goes into the square tubing and not outside.

87stepper, It sucks to be in the rust belt. Any work underneath the truck around here is somthing evrybody should have to suffer through at least once.

-Jeremy

[bigblock73]

Originally Posted by 1FaastC10

as you get to the end, be very careful. drop it, and you have no idea where its gonna roll/bounce to.

VERY good advice!! I know this from experience, unfortunately.

[1FaastC10]

Originally Posted by MylilBowTie

So did you heat the floor inside the cab then or just the broken bolt on the underside of the cab? I can get a small pipe wrench. But I'm wondering about breaking off the rest of the very small part of the bolt left in the cab mount nut that I want to get the rest of the broken bolt out. So I guess I'm asking if you think there is enough bolt left to get it out with a pipe wrench. I can put a metal pan under the cab to help catch the very hot broken bolt. I bought new grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers from boltdepot.com to replace the old ones. I tried to order from gm first but couldn't find any bolts just the bolt specs. As for the heat source I have is a small propane bottle with a torch tip. Would that be hot enough or do I need something better?

i just heated the broken portion of the bolt. yes, you have enough meat there to pull it out. as for your torch, that's what i used, olny i used mapp gas rather than propane, as it burns hotter.

[MylilBowTie]

Okay thank you all very much!!! I'm going to start on getting this thing out after I get some map gas, I'll let everyone know how it goes.

[Turbo85GMC]

Originally Posted by jermasaurus

....left a propane torch firing at it for about 10 minutes.... It came out fine and I was able to re-use that bolt.

I'm not sure if that's enough heat to change the metalurgy of the bolt, but if it was me and my truck, I'd put in a new bolt. Just my $0.02.