09-13-2005, 04:39 PM | #1 |
needin' money
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lowering
how many inches does cuttin exactly a coil off get you, and taking 1 leaf out get you
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09-13-2005, 05:20 PM | #2 |
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1 coil usually will be 2 inches. 1 leaf should net approx. the same. It's a pain, but try one coil at first, if it's not as low as you want, then cut 1/2 coil at a time after that. It's better to have to go back and cut more than to cut too much and be screwed. When you take a leaf out, take out the one right on top of the overload leaf.
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09-13-2005, 06:09 PM | #3 |
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one coil was approx 1.5" for me 2 coils was too much in my opinion at approx 3.5"
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09-13-2005, 10:09 PM | #4 |
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Do you want to know "how" you should cut it?????
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09-13-2005, 10:25 PM | #5 |
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Also, realize you can only cut so much off a coil and still be able to align to factory specs. That's the beauty of drop spindles. They retain the factory geometry. If you want to go lower than 2", I'd get spindles as well as cut/aftermarket drop coils.
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09-13-2005, 11:26 PM | #6 | |
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09-13-2005, 11:47 PM | #7 |
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How did he cut the springs?
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09-14-2005, 11:07 PM | #8 | |
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09-14-2005, 11:19 PM | #9 |
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They can be cut in a number of ways. I have cut them with a cut of wheel, a chop saw, a tile blade in a circular saw, and even a hack saw. I have used a cutting torch too, but I submerged the spring in a bucket of water to keep the temps down. The point Im trying to make is it's best to use as little heat as possible.....
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09-16-2005, 10:38 PM | #10 |
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I'm listening too! Thanks!
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09-17-2005, 05:09 PM | #11 | |
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09-20-2005, 10:57 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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09-21-2005, 02:00 AM | #13 |
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Cutting coils reduces the total load carrying capacity of the spring. Because each coil has a load capacity (or spring rate), and they all add up to a total spring rate, any time you remove a loop or fraction thereof, you reduce the coil's ability to carry that load. In addition, with progressive rate springs (we've had this discussion before, but I don't recall the result-- are the stock coils progressive or not? I believe they are.), it's not particularly accurate to say that 1 loop = n inches, because the spring rate of each coil is different (progressively so ). Removing leafs reduces the total load carrying capacity of the spring. By removing leaves from the spring pack, you are effectively lowering the vehicle by "letting it sag." Is this a "budget rodder" method? Often. Is this safe? Not compared to engineered solutions. Are you going to do it anyway? Probably. /2 cents [fixed for typos... now going to sleep!]
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09-21-2005, 01:00 PM | #14 |
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Very well said.
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10-10-2005, 08:46 PM | #15 |
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I cut 1 1/2 coils off the front of my 68 and I think it was too much in hindsight. The spring is so short that whenever I go over uneven pavement or speedbumps the spring bounces around between the cups and sounds like its going to fall out. It was a cheap answer to my lowering needs, but I wish I would have gotten drop spindles and lowering springs. I guess it all depends on how much you can spend. Let us know what you decide to do.
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10-10-2005, 09:40 PM | #16 |
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if you cant afford to do it right dont do it. its not just your safety and your truck at stake. but thousands of other cars who are sharing the road riding next to a truck with unsafe suspension. its not safe to heat springs or cut coils. new springs are 100 bucks a set roughly
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10-10-2005, 10:56 PM | #17 | ||
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I've installed aftermarket drop springs from DJM, SoLow, BellTech, Suspension Techniques & Western Chassis in many vehicles. Some I've owned, some were lowering jobs for friends. I don't mind spending money when it's warranted. For 2" of drop, cut a coil from the stock springs & if you don't like the ride, buy some aftermarket drop springs.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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10-12-2005, 11:55 PM | #18 | ||
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Thank you and goodnight..... Last edited by N2TRUX; 10-12-2005 at 11:56 PM. |
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10-13-2005, 02:06 AM | #19 |
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Okay Mr. Ken or Scoti, I am likely very close to doing this. My wife and I were arguing about it just this morning in fact!! 1)What is the best way to cut the spring and reduce the heat? Dip it in a bucket O water? 2)I plan on getting the DJM Shackle lowering kit for the rear. Will that even ol jebby out? I am not asking for a legally binding, for sure type, fool proof, guarantee like promise just your humble educated opinion will do. I have never done this before.... Thanks to all for keeping this Thread alive I hope to benifit from it.
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10-16-2005, 05:25 PM | #20 | |
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Re: lowering
Quote:
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. Last edited by SCOTI; 10-18-2005 at 08:11 PM. |
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10-28-2005, 08:45 PM | #21 |
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Re: lowering
Not exactly what I had pictured the results to be but it is low"er". I just wanted you guys to see that I finally did something rather than just talking about it! Thanks Ken and Scott for all you advise and help! I am not done by far but it's going to be a while before I can convince the wife he is still to high
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10-28-2005, 09:36 PM | #22 | |
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Re: lowering
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Like the rest that have successfully cut springs, if done the right way is just as safe. I have never heated springs and I never will. I have actually seen the effects that a brittle heated spring can do, I almost lost my best friend on the freeway leaving Seattle towards Tacoma in his slammed 64 Impala...Heated springs are NOT safe, they can snap without warning. Now that I am older (42), I choose to buy the springs instead of cutting them. Not only do you get the right drop but, you also get a fresh, non-sagging spring. But in a pinch....gimme the cut wheel. Mike Last edited by BigMike; 10-28-2005 at 09:37 PM. |
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10-29-2005, 12:04 AM | #23 |
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Re: lowering
all i got to say is
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10-29-2005, 09:23 AM | #24 | |
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Re: lowering
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Yes, it's easy enough to buy the fresh non-sagging drop springs. The issue I have is the 'drops' are marketed compared to 'stock height'. When you're working on a 30+ year old truck how do you accurately measure stock height? I have bought 2" dropped springs when I was younger only to find it didn't lower the ride height @ all compared to the springs that were in the vehicle (a 76 camaro & my buddies 92 Chevy truck). The Camaro had @ least 12yr old springs & the trucks were less than a year old, yet both did not drop the advertised amount of 2". I don't remember the manufacturer of the Camaros springs, but the trucks were purchased from BellTech as part of their 4/6 drop kit. I did however buy some Suspension Techniques 2" drop springs for my old 78 'camino. Those springs along w/some Western Chassis 2" dropped spindles netted me 3" of drop. I gambled on the fact that the thicker windings of the new sport springs would not compress the full 2" & that I would only get about 1" of drop which was pretty accurate according to the tape measure.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol. |
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11-03-2005, 10:47 AM | #25 |
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Re: lowering
well, hopefully someone here will have some answers for me....i just removed my front coils to do the ball joint, bushings, steering upgrade kit from PST...well, when i took out the coil they look to me like they've been cut using a plasma cutter or something i would guess....are stock out of '86 silverado 1/2 coils supposed to be smooth at the ends? or rouch cut like mine? they are not the least smooth. do they come like that out the coil factory?? cut i'm thinking that the bozo before me just cut/heated them up and that's why (along with my ball joints being worn) that i have tires always wearing out on the inside....along with something else (i have like 6-8 shims on my upper cont. arms on each side) what's up with that?? i hope ya'll can help me... i like the ride height in which it sits, but i hate having to buy new tires and front end alignments every 10,000 miles. if that!!!!
so, if it turns out that they did cut my front coils.....where can i get some new stock height coils (or buy them from someone on here) with a 2"drop spindles? and also, i know for sure they removed one of my leafs (or more) in the rear...i currently have 3 leafs springs and 1 of them is the big load bar....how many leafs come stock (again '86 swb 1/2 2WD)? it sits nice and even stance so by replacing the rear to stock height with proper leafs (so as not to sag when i put a damned weed eater in there!!!!) i guess i would have to buy the lowering 2" shackles to be even all the way around?? i'll try to find a pic of the truck in its current shape (before i removed coils and shocks ) thanks, joey.
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