Need Opinion on This airbag setup

[Col Clank]

1 Vair 450
8 SMC 3/8" valves
1 5 gallo 8 port tank
4 cotitech 2600's
2 airlift dual needle guages
1 airlift single needle guage
50 ft 3/8 airline
50 ft 1/4 airline
SMC 3/8" water trap
110/145 PSI non Adj pressure switch
5 push button control
suicide doors front brackets
Ekstencive 2 link & bridge kit

This is what I am thinking about ordering for my 1981 C10 but haven't decided it is gonna run me $1452 trying to see if I can get the air management kit cheaper somewhere else.... Also is this enough air to support just raising and lowering to drive no hopping? Any help would be wonderful, thanks.

[FnLow69]

i wouldn't run a two link. four links are better and just as easy to set up...

[bagged01extcab]

I agree, forget about two links and use a four link.

[wink_tim]

I may be wrong but I think the 5 push button control box will only operate 4 valves. I am in the process of baggin my truck, I called suicidedoors and they answered all my questions. You should give them a shout.

[dwcsr]

That’s almost the same as mine and I don't hop, just up and down when needed. You may look at suicide doors site they have a Thomas 337 compressor flex air line included, with a free dryer and switch for $179 or there abouts plus free shipping.

I used innovator valves which are very fast almost to fast. They were $70 each and it has the up and down side in one valve. You can get those at universalairsuspension.com you may have to call to get them ask for Scott. He knows about those valves and what fittings you will need.

I ran 3/8 copper for all my lines. They can plug into the push lock fittings that the plastic lines go into or you can use ferrule type fittings. There is a trick to the copper and if you want I can send you some instructions and pics to do it.

Suicide doors have some good pricing but watch out for the high shipping charges they some times add on.

[Col Clank]

so you have any more pics of your suspesion

[dwcsr]

If you want more I have them

[dwcsr]

more

[XXL]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

more

Do you have any trouble with the copper lines leaking in those press-fit fittings? As I understand it, they're not intended for copper hard lines... our local Parker distributor says they'll leak immediately and only get worse over time.

[dwcsr]

I have no leaks and the fitting doesn't know copper from plastic. While it may not have been intended for copper it does work. May be someone has some actual case that it caused a problem but I haven't heard of it.

If you chamfer the end and polish it with emery paper and don't cut it with to much pressure on the cutter it actually will work fine for a long time. It is less likely to give you problems in cold weather and is much more durable lasting far longer that plastic line. It you want you can use the DOT brass compression fittings.

The problem I did find was cutting it and getting the tube out of round and not chamfering and polishing the end of the tube about an inch up. It would cut the O ring inside and leak badly. You can pick out and replace the O ring.

There are some places that you can't use it like a flexing area from compressor to tank and from a shockwave to the frame or valve. You need a flexible line there. I used plastic on the front bags where they go in from the frame to the cross member and then spliced in the copper to the valve. I also used copper from the compressor to a rubber line which went into the tank. Copper out of the compressor for about 2 ft cools the air enough so it doesn't melt the plastic or rubber flex line to the tank.

Below are the tubes one just cut and the other cut chamfered and polished
where the copper come from the compressor you can't see the rubber line the goes from the copper to the tank. It the other pic you can see where in goes from copper to plastic on the front valve.

[el curioso]

Sorry for jacking you tread a bit but this info might also be usefull for you?

What type of copper line did you use? Just regular from any plumming store or special D.O.T. approved line? I had thought about doing this but I wasn't sure which type of line to use.

[hotrodhomi]

how long have you had the copper line? I would worry about failure. Your setup looks clean though.

[67Fleet]

99% of why people have leaks with copper hard lines is exactly what dwcsr said. Proper preparation is "key" when using copper. Especially when using press-fit fittings. It's not the fittings that are bad, it is installation error. The tube needs to be cleaned of all burrs and sharp edges that might chafe the o-ring and compromise the seal.

[dwcsr]

To answer both questions.
This is a new install of copper line from the plumbing store. I used to plumb copper on tractor trailers before the invent of plastic line. They never fail at the line without some type of contact like a rock or rubbing on something or a solid connection where a flexible should be. Copper if far stronger than plastic less reactive to weather and has a much higher burst rate. It is harder to plumb. It is more expensive per foot it has no flexibility. I don't know if you can get DOT approved copper line any more.

In the years I worked on tractor trailer I saw far more plastic lines fail that copper. Most plastic failed at the fitting.

I not saying toss out your plastic because it’s no good. It is good stuff and easy to use. I just like the look of copper and know how to plumb it fairly easily. Plus I can chrome the copper. I’m also using a DOT approved copper nickel alloy brake line. Its easy to use won’t rust ever and flares so easy nobody can screw up a flare and I can chrome it or polish it to a golden color. It is expensive like $80 for 25 ft.

[el curioso]

Thank you and im off to the pluming store. Good thing I did not started using all my D.O.T. commpresion fittings on the plastic.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

To answer both questions.
This is a new install of copper line from the plumbing store. I used to plumb copper on tractor trailers before the invent of plastic line. They never fail at the line without some type of contact like a rock or rubbing on something or a solid connection where a flexible should be.

Which is really the concern that I have... with a copper fitting, any time any part of the line moves, it immediately puts pressure on the fitting, whereas plastic line flexes a lot more. So, while you can make the fitting seal, any play in the line can unseal it much easier than plastic. Ultimately, I'm sure you've got things under control... people just need to understand that you've got professional experience with copper lines, and so it may not be the method for everyone.

[dwcsr]

The copper line has to be anchored securely so it doesn't move around so yes your right if copper does move or vibrate around it can crack where plastic is far less likely to crack from vibration or movement. You need to anchor copper every 16" - 18" to eliminate the flex. It may not be practical for most where plastic is much easier to install without the worry of flex points

The only thing you worry about with plastic is cutting a square end and that it stays away from heat and a rubbing contact spot. You can even wire tie it to almost anything on the car/truck.

[Col Clank]

What does everybody here think of the Fender Bender Intl. Bolt on C10 triangulated 4 link.

http://www.fbirides.com/product.asp?idno=3991

looks like it would work and wouldn't be a 2 link.

[dwcsr]

It looks pretty good. you'd have to buy the air ride for it and the notch but 450 doesn't sound to bad to me.

[Col Clank]

figured suicidedoors bridge kit and put the bags over the rear axle...