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12-22-2002, 03:21 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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how do i replace steering box?
okay i wanted to hold off and rebuil the whole frontend this summer but its gotten so bad i can barley keep it on the highway, and the front breaks are shot. so i going to replace, rotors, calipers, pads, wheel bearings, tie rods, and steering box.
so where can i get a GOOD steering box? is there anyone who makes a closer ratio box for our trucks? where is the best place to get one? and also i have never put a steering box on. is there a tech article somewhere or can someone tell me what all to do. like does it have to be bled to get new fluid in and air out and anything else i need to know?
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
12-22-2002, 05:18 PM | #2 |
You get what you pay for
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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Well, I went with a AGR steering box and pump. I bought mine from Summit. They will come with all the instructions you need to bleed it and so forth. Basically it's turning lock to lock to get all the air out, and making sure to keep it full of fluid while you do it. I would also install a new pitman arm while you are at it, since you have already changed the idler arm. Then all you will need to finish your front end will be the control arm bushings.
If I were you, I would go ahead and order the front end rebuild kit from Performance Suspension Components Their kits don't come with the pitman arm though. Summit's price for the number 204352 box you would need is $319.95. If you want the pump, which I would go with too, it's number 807324 and Summit sells it for $139.95. As far as do you need the AGR stuff, I really like mine. The box is variable ratio, 17:1 to 13:1. They don't sell or make a quick ratio for our trucks. They do offer one for S10's which a 12:1. I guess it has to do with it being a heavy truck or something. Reason I got one was because I wanted the best. Remember what my motto is.
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
12-22-2002, 10:20 PM | #3 |
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Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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i know what your motto is mike and i'm going to have to hold off on the steering box b/c of it. id rather save up and get the best. but i don't have the money for it right now. i'm bascially trying to bandaid the frontend so it will last till this summer and i have time to completeley tear it apart and do it right. i'm still having some front end shakes thought the idler arm helped alot. and the breaks are just plan shot and making the worst noises. one of the rotors has grooves in it that are probly .15 deep which is a mile when it comes to breaks. so i guess i'll just do the breaks/wheel bearings/ and tie rods and see how much i thightens everything up. i'm going to get the front end kit later but i don't have the money or the time do take it all apart and do it right untill this summer. thanks for the help
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
12-23-2002, 01:25 AM | #4 |
You get what you pay for
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Cherryville, NC
Posts: 4,798
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10-4.
I fully understand the money thing. I was only offering suggestions and in no way was meaning this was your only option. There are more ways to go about it, but you did GOOD steering box in your first post. If you can bandaid it enough to get you by until you get enough money to do it right, you will be way ahead of the game for sure.
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
12-23-2002, 01:29 AM | #5 |
Workaholic
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Katy, TX
Posts: 1,589
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Contact Matt at West Texas OffRoad. He can rebuild your box for $100 and I've heard nothing but good things about his work.
http://www.westtexasoffroad.homestead.com/
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1979 K-10 Silverado (work in progress) 1991 V1500 Subruban 1999 Suburban LT 4x4 2006 Suburban LTZ (daily driver) |
12-23-2002, 02:28 AM | #6 | |
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 2,144
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Quote:
thanks for the link 79 but i think i'm gonna try to hold off till i can go for one of the agr boxes
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'51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's |
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