87 blazer

[70-Chevy]

Im going to be getting an 87 blazer from my uncle for $500. The truck is all stock and has had one previous owner. Everything works in it: gauges, power windows, etc. Im looking to make a "family" driven 4 wheel drive truck. With that, I mean a 4 wheel drive that I'm not going to thrash and ruin. I want to be able to cruise the beach or do some light muddin.

The questions I have are with a 6" lift, what size tires can I run without any to minor mods to the truck. Also, what is the best suspension package to go with? what size gears come stock with these trucks?

Thanks guys, Im looking foward to getting another truck that I can come on here and share with you all.

Chris

[Zoomad75]

Congrats on the k5 buy. As far as the lift goes, 6" will provide pleanty of room for 35-36" tires without any cutting. Then again, I'm running only 4" on mine and run 35's and had zero rubbing. This is just my personal opinion, but I like running the lower lift amount with the 35's as it limits the topheavy feeling you get the higher you go. The type of wheeling I do has us up in the mountains of Colorado some of which are on high shelf roads. You don't want to be overly top heavy up there for sure. Plus, on the street it doesn't feel like it's going to tip over when going around corners. Again, it's personal prefrerence. The other thing to look at between 4" and 6" lifts is the amount of mods needed to correct for the lift. (steering and driveline) Most 4" lifts need at least a raised steering arm, but don't always require driveline correction. Meaning less money to finish the lift right. 6" lifts will need a raised steering arm plus a dropped draglink for steering correction. The 6" lift might need more driveline correction in the rear due to how much steeper the rear driveshaft will be sitting. Some have got away with just wedge shims to the axle to correct pinion angle and others have needed to add a cv joint to the front of the rear shaft. It varys by truck.

As far as kit's go there are a ton out there. Top of the line is BDS or Deaver (read $$$$$). Less cost, but with nice soft springs are Tuff Country. Superlift has them, but with a higher spring rate. The most economical kit is probably rough country, but they do have a higher spring rate so the ride is stiffer than the soft springs. If you shop it right though, the Rough Country kits come in with everything needed, springs, shocks, hardware and a rasied steering arm. Most of the other kits make you pay separately for steering correction. I've got Rough Country springs up front and a shackle flip out back. I don't mind the ride at all. Plus off road my tire pressure gets dropped to 15 psi and it provides an extra level of softness to take the edge off of the rocks.

One thing to keep in mind on the tire size though. Gearing. You asked whats the size to run with no to minor mods. You need to figure out what axle ratio you have. 35's will require a deeper gear (higher numerically) to keep the engine/trans running in the same rpm range at a given speed. If your running what was most likely stock ratios of 3.08 or 3.42's, tires as big as 34" and up will make the truck run like a dog. If you have 3.73's it will be better, but still not optimal for 35/36's. I'm running 35's with 3.73's and it is ok, but I have to dig into 2nd or 1st gear when climbing long steep mountain hills on the highway. Off road, it isn't as bad since I've got a 465 manual trans as granny gear and 4low make up most of my lack of axle gearing. Ideally 4.10's what you really want for 35's to get the best of both worlds, on road and off. 4.56's adds power but your engine speed at 65 really starts spinning fast.

If you got saddled with sucky gearing you might not want to go bigger than 33's or else I'd be spending money to regear both axles if you want to run 35's. If you got a 700r4 trans it would wise to regear if going bigger. Those trannies don't survive long if the the tire size and axle gearing arent optimised.

[streetstar]

uh - yeah -- everything he said. Seriously though, $500 is a sweet deal as long as it runs and works.

The only thing i have to add is a quick side note on budget allocation -- i have seen quite a few guys with 4x projects blow the budget right away on the lift and tires, when it should be the other way around -- i would take care of the gears and even bigger brake rotors first before throwing on some 35's. Tires that big have a serious effect on your brake system too, and you will notice it if its not up to par.

There are a lot of 4-by's out there that have a hard time getting out of their own way, but when they do, they dont want to stop, because the gears and brakes are not optimized.

[70-Chevy]

Thanks alot guys for all of these tips. I'm going to be very new to the 4x4 side of the chevy's. I really dont know much about them when it comes to lift, suspensions, transfers, etc. Anything else I should do first and foremost before I attempt anything else?

Thanks again,
Chris

[Zoomad75]

Get the maintenace stuff out of the way first. Just like anything else. Until it's running/driving/stopping good you really shouldn't waste cash on lift and tires.

Stock Brakes with 35's is certainly borderline but if the stock brakes are worn or need repair it can be dangerous. My stock disc/drum setup stops pretty good considering, but they have been maintained with good pads and what looks to have been a recent rear rebuild by a previous owner. I did have to replace the master cylinder last winter, but all is good again.

You can't run out and get a set of baer brakes for solid axle GM trucks so ways to upgrade needs to be creative. Most end up running 3/4 ton axles under them and with them you get the larger discs up front and massive huge drums out back. Chevy 3/4 ton and 1/2 ton axles use the same caliper on D44's and 10b's so the main gain on the front is the larger rotor (more swept area, greater cooling). Other options include rear disc kits, most are out there for the 14b full floater, but some are out there for the 10 and 12 bolt 1/2 ton axles.

Personally, I think 35/36" tires are about as far as you want to push it with stock 1/2 ton parts (axles or brakes). If the K5's not being used for extreme stuff and the tire size is limted to 36" or less you can stick with the 1/2 ton parts.

Just to cruise the beach or light muddin, trail riding you don't have to do anything. Stock K5's can do that without much issue other than a lack of ground clearance and street tread tires. We can all send him down the path of bigger/badder/better stuff, but in his case it would be supreme overkill. Heck, 2 1/2" springs up front and blocks out back and some 33" mud terrains and he cover all the ground he wants to without need to regear (unless you got stuck with 3.08's), no need for driveline correction or much steering correction.

Make sure the truck runs well and stops well. Change all the fluids, give it a tune up if need be and then evaluate your needs. I'd recommend 4" springs up front, shackle flip in the rear (flexes way better and no blocks), add 34x10-50 Swamper LTB tires and you'll be able to go just about anywhere you want. If the gearing in you axles is crappy, save up to regear and you can upgrade to larger (35/36") tires after you regeared.

[Zoomad75]

We Need Pics By The Way>>>>>

[z3pr68138]

I pieced together my own lift "kit". My main goal is ride quality. I went with BDS 4" lift springs for the front and DIY4X4 4" Shackle flip kit with extended shackles for the rear with new rear leaf springs. (4.5" to 5" lift on rear.) I also went with Bilstien shocks. I still need minor things like U-bolts and the bushings. Planning on greasable poly bushings. Might cost a little more, but buy your parts as you can afford them and piece yourself together a quality suspension.

[dropd80s]

Again, kinda an old post but thanks for the info!