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Old 01-16-2003, 12:04 AM   #1
1FaastC10
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manual box vs PS box (73-87)

i have both a manual box, and a PS box for my 82 C10. i'm thinking about using the manual box to save weight, as i will be lightening the front end as much as i canto improve the balance. i have both boxes, and both pitman arms. are there any other differences in the steering linkages i should be aware of. TIA
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Old 01-16-2003, 01:24 PM   #2
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Nope, if you have the pitman arm that should be the only diff. That is all I swapped and it has been running fine for over 10 years. If you like PS, you are going to HATE manual, especially if you have to parallel park. You basically are only saving the weight from the PS pump, the boxes aren't that much different.
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Old 01-16-2003, 04:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally posted by Captkaos
You basically are only saving the weight from the PS pump, the boxes aren't that much different.
saving the weight of ther PS pump is better than not saving any at all...

i've got both boxes side by side in the garage, the manual box is considerably smaller and lighter. both are from 1982 C10s, maybe you've got a different box since yours is older?
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Old 01-16-2003, 06:22 PM   #4
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Mine is the variable ratio box off of an '86 truck, same as yours.

It's like 4lbs. diff for the box and about 6lbs for full pump, or there abouts, right. Granted, every 10lbs is about .5hp, and 200lbs is about 0.1 second or 10hp, but it wasn't worth it to me. But, weight is weight....
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1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
1985 K5 diesel swapped project
1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project
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Old 01-16-2003, 06:28 PM   #5
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BTW, shove the motor back as far as you can. This makes a large impact on weight balance/transfer.
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1973 Chevy C-10
1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD
1987 R10 twin turbo LS
1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
1985 K5 diesel swapped project
1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project
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Old 01-17-2003, 07:07 PM   #6
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does anyone know exactly how far back i can set it? as of right now, my cab is in the garage on the floor, the crossmember is in the shed, the motor mounts in the attic, the engine under the bench, and the frame sitting in the yard... makes it hard to check for clearance.
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Old 01-17-2003, 09:07 PM   #7
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Are you planning on running a Stock large HEI distributor and not cut the firewall? The answer is none.

You will need to modify the firewall to make any good gains, although moving 600lbs backward and inch will improve it. I wouldn't go to the trouble unless you are thinking or more than a couple of inches. What is the final intention?
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1987 R10 twin turbo LS
1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
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Old 01-17-2003, 10:52 PM   #8
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Chris, the overall goal is to take as much weight off of the front end as possible in order to improve the balance of the truck. a better balanced truck is a better handling truck, right? and if i cant get it to handle like that, i can always go drag truck with it...
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Old 01-18-2003, 06:39 AM   #9
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Drag truck it Jeremy.

Having manual steering w/ a manual steering box is 10x better then having manual steering with a PS box.

Sucks arse....
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Old 01-18-2003, 12:44 PM   #10
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i'd like to be able to play in the twisties too Paul. moving that much weight back off of the nose should also make it do better at the dragstrip. dual purpose!
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Old 01-19-2003, 03:25 AM   #11
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Fuel cell in the back, relocated battery, no a/c equipment. Maybe a glass hood too.

That oughta help.
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Old 01-19-2003, 03:47 PM   #12
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I know exactly what you are talking about Jeremy. I am setting mine up for turns. I went with the fiberglass tilt, and am removing all I can also. Its that I have driven mine for about 3 years with a manual box and just 275/60/15's and it is a pain in the but to turn, plus the PS box is a quicker ratio, and I am planning on running wider than 275's, so that would stink with the manual.
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1987 R10 twin turbo LS
1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
1985 K5 diesel swapped project
1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project
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Old 01-19-2003, 09:21 PM   #13
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glass hood is a definite, as are inner fenders, possibly fenders too. there's a guy about 100mi from here that makes glass hoods, real good quality stuff, and cheaper than anybody else too. Chris, and ideas on where i might be able to find a quicker ratio manual box?
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Old 01-21-2003, 06:34 PM   #14
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I don't know of any worm gear manual boxes that are quick. Your only other hope is to use a rack and Pinion.... $$$$
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1973 Chevy C-10
1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD
1987 R10 twin turbo LS
1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
1985 K5 diesel swapped project
1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project
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Old 01-21-2003, 07:04 PM   #15
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$$$$ and lighter to boot
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Old 01-21-2003, 07:14 PM   #16
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Hey, since we're spending your money how about a custom chassis with R&P, 12" disc with B-body spindles and a 4 link to boot!! http://www.jimmeyerracing.com Jim Meyers has a complete chassis he will build for you for only $8000!!!
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1973 Chevy C-10
1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD
1987 R10 twin turbo LS
1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
1985 K5 diesel swapped project
1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project
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Old 01-22-2003, 01:33 AM   #17
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no thanks, im a "do it yourselfer" i'll farm the little stuff out, but it will be done my way, and i'll assmeble it. then when something doesnt turn out as planned, its my fault.
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Old 01-22-2003, 03:57 PM   #18
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Yeah, my thoughts exactly. For $8000, I could buy another freakin' truck!.. I am wanting to convince my brother to build a frame jig when he gets his shop finished...
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1973 Chevy C-10
1978 GMC Jimmy (2WD) - SOLD
1987 R10 twin turbo LS
1991 R3500 SRW CrewCab
1985 K5 diesel swapped project
1989 K5 2WD conversion w/ Vette susp Project
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