The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-25-2008, 03:32 PM   #1
cochino12
It followed me home?
 
cochino12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Yup
Posts: 5,751
heater/vent vacuum tube routing

can someone take some pictures of their ac vacuum line routing for me? I'm having some problems with no defrost in my 85. thanks
__________________
Adam

That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

86 c-10 SWB
85 CCSB
90 GMC K30 Crew SRW
1985 C30 Dually
cochino12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2008, 07:20 PM   #2
cochino12
It followed me home?
 
cochino12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Yup
Posts: 5,751
Re: heater/vent vacuum tube routing

anyone?
__________________
Adam

That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

86 c-10 SWB
85 CCSB
90 GMC K30 Crew SRW
1985 C30 Dually
cochino12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2008, 08:57 PM   #3
LBJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 378
Re: heater/vent vacuum tube routing

It's too late to take pics because I have already done the fix. The defrost problem on my 77 was due to the vac line INSIDE the plenum assembly under the dash being rotted away. You have to stand on your head to get to it. I used some silicone fuel tubing to replace that line with since it's something you don't want to do again. There is a vacuum actuator INSIDE that pulls the door closed for the defrost and releases for the other functions. Once you get a light in there, you can see where the actuator is and plan your attack from there. Some diassembly of the plenum chamber is required. I used some long nosed forceps to attach the line to the actuator. The other lines are pretty straight forward to get to. Start at the carb and go to the little accumulator ball on the firewall first. Then, the line goes thru the firewall to the various actuators. Some of the lines are plastic with little flexible nibs of clear tubing on the ends. The plastic line usually does not wear out, but it might get cut or crimped and need replacing. There is also a vacuum line going to the actuator right in front of and under the windshield wipers on the passenger side (under that plastic screen). Check that too for loss of vacuum.

My system now works like brand new, including fixing the problem of feeling like the heater is on all the time. I am very satisfied now.
LBJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-26-2008, 09:03 PM   #4
cochino12
It followed me home?
 
cochino12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Yup
Posts: 5,751
Re: heater/vent vacuum tube routing

Quote:
Originally Posted by LBJ View Post
It's too late to take pics because I have already done the fix. The defrost problem on my 77 was due to the vac line INSIDE the plenum assembly under the dash being rotted away. You have to stand on your head to get to it. I used some silicone fuel tubing to replace that line with since it's something you don't want to do again. There is a vacuum actuator INSIDE that pulls the door closed for the defrost and releases for the other functions. Once you get a light in there, you can see where the actuator is and plan your attack from there. Some diassembly of the plenum chamber is required. I used some long nosed forceps to attach the line to the actuator. The other lines are pretty straight forward to get to. Start at the carb and go to the little accumulator ball on the firewall first. Then, the line goes thru the firewall to the various actuators. Some of the lines are plastic with little flexible nibs of clear tubing on the ends. The plastic line usually does not wear out, but it might get cut or crimped and need replacing. There is also a vacuum line going to the actuator right in front of and under the windshield wipers on the passenger side (under that plastic screen). Check that too for loss of vacuum.

My system now works like brand new, including fixing the problem of feeling like the heater is on all the time. I am very satisfied now.

thanks for the help, there are no lines hooked to the accumulator ball now hopfully that is the only problem. Where do I hook it up on the carb?
__________________
Adam

That's why they call it a shortcut Kyle, if it was easy it would just be the way.

86 c-10 SWB
85 CCSB
90 GMC K30 Crew SRW
1985 C30 Dually
cochino12 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2008, 04:49 AM   #5
75gmck25
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 28
Re: heater/vent vacuum tube routing

The vacuum ball is connected to manifold vacuum. On an SBC you should just use a T to connct it to back of the intake manifold on the passenger side. The other part of the T will be the vacuum line to the transmission, if you have one.

Bruce
75gmck25 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-28-2008, 02:43 AM   #6
LBJ
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: TEXAS
Posts: 378
Re: heater/vent vacuum tube routing

Having the hose missing might also explain any roughness or missing of the engine at idle - vacuum leak at the carb base. Assuming that is the case. I would still check the line that "powers" the vacuum actuator for the defrost door for being in poor condition. It's something that you will probably only have to fix one last time if you use silicone tubing.
LBJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com