69 or 72 crew

[watahyahknow]

i used to work for a company making 6 door limo's they used the backpart of the frontdoor and the frontpart of the backdoor to make the middle door and put a new doorskin on that contraption this might work on getting the backdoor to sit nicely to the frontdoor to make it smooth again all they had to do is have a small ventlikewindow made to fit in front of the stock window out of a reardoor and cut up two sets of windowrubbers to make it look factorystock if you use the doors of a suburb ...........

come to think of it wouldnt it be a LOT eazier to weld the rearwall and corners of a pickupcab to a suburb body cut just behind the reardoors i mean you dont need to fabricate a thing since the reardoors are the same shape as the door on a pickup and the bodyshape should line up with the rearpart of the pickupcab .
from wat i remember the suburb chassis is longer too so it might just be long enough to take a stock bed .................. a little voice inside my head warns me there might not be a 69 suburb ........

[396 SS]

Mine is made from a suburban. There is not as much room with the rear suburban door , but I thought it was much easier to build. I have the fourth door on it now but dont have any pictures yet

[rancid]

that looks very cool, going to be a nice truck.

[chevy_fatman]

396 SS, what's the wheelbase in that truck? looking good!

[watahyahknow]

i just know this will safe a lot of time fabricating the doorpilar in the middle and you can get all original doors and windows have electric windows and original fitting doorpannels

[rancid]

it will have stock doors and door panels and glass and even the lower main hinged part of the pillar is stock front and rear. i will have to build the upper half of the rear pillar, and sqaure up the front of the rear door upper frame and a custom built non working sqaured up wing window nothing to bad, i have not seen another done just like mine. i dont think this is the easy way for a 4 door, but i like the fact it will have a much bigger cab area than the suburban built trucks with longer rear doors and the 2-3 inch space between the doors.

[396 SS]

be sure to leave enough room between the upper door frames to let the window move more straight up and down and still clear the door hinges on the inside. It's a major problem on the suburban doors because the glass slides down towards the back. The wheelbase is 24 inches longer the suburban and a long wheelbase truck.

[Rokcrln]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=188993 This link will show you most of what needs to be done. I also had to make the center door pillar on this one. Their are alot of pages to look thru but it should help out some I hope.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[rancid]

well i didnt get any more metal work done, i had to much fun at the dunes. but i did pick me up the 454 and a 4l80e trans, and cut off some parts from a donor 86 truck. i took the front spring hanger mounts and core support mounts as well of about 2 feet of frame just in case i need to extend this thing. needed the newer front hangers because the 72 and older are body mounts and hangers in one and the 73 and newer are sperate and you need to move the hangers forward to fit the longer spring. the sring hanger mounts are for some 56" 73+ 6 inch rear lift springs, but going on the front. allready put on the rear 56" 73+ springs and all hangers along with a 14 bolt axle. got to get all the crossover steering stuff next and i should have a nice roller all done and blasted and covered in por15.

[rancid]

can anyone explain how hard door skins are to put on, the sububan doors i got really should be reskinned, i really cant afford to just buy new doors.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Keep up the good work should turn out killer..

[watahyahknow]

Originally Posted by rancid

can anyone explain how hard door skins are to put on, the sububan doors i got really should be reskinned, i really cant afford to just buy new doors.

i've seen it done a couple a times :
cut the edge of the old doorskin with a angle grinder then pry it away from the bottom part (i dont know how its fixed to the top though ) , you probably need to derust the frame and weld some new pieces in the bottom to replace rot .
make sure you got a replacementpanel with the edge allready folded , put it over the bottom part and locally fold it over the frame on the front , back and bottom so it stays in place and check on the car if you got the waistline on the good spot and fiddle with it if needed , than turn the door on its new skin take a flat dollie under the door against the new skin and a small hammer and work youre way all around the edge of the door getting the metal of the doorskin flat and around the old frame .
it might be adviceable to get some sealant in the bottompart and some good thick paint between frame and skin to prevent water from getting between the two sheets .
its a lot of work and a lot can go wrong it might be better to get some complete doors without rust

[alblogg]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

i've seen it done a couple a times :
cut the edge of the old doorskin with a angle grinder then pry it away from the bottom part (i dont know how its fixed to the top though ) , you probably need to derust the frame and weld some new pieces in the bottom to replace rot .
make sure you got a replacementpanel with the edge allready folded , put it over the bottom part and locally fold it over the frame on the front , back and bottom so it stays in place and check on the car if you got the waistline on the good spot and fiddle with it if needed , than turn the door on its new skin take a flat dollie under the door against the new skin and a small hammer and work youre way all around the edge of the door getting the metal of the doorskin flat and around the old frame .
it might be adviceable to get some sealant in the bottompart and some good thick paint between frame and skin to prevent water from getting between the two sheets .
its a lot of work and a lot can go wrong it might be better to get some complete doors without rust

He has it down just about to the tee. I have done a lot of them and they can be pain in the a**. If you can find some salvage doors at a good price they would be cheaper in the long run but sence it is you and not me have to pay someone the labor to put on a door skin and work it......that's up to you. If you deside to do it get you some "EVERCOAT" fast dry or med dry adhesive to bond it to the frame and this also keeps out the nasties.

[rancid]

well this project got put on hold because of my 67 now shortbed, but i did finaly give it some attention. i bought a complete 97 powerstroke that had been hit on the front end for 2000.00. so the motor, trans and some other parts will go in it. was going to use a cummins but this will do just fine, im still going to finish the shortbed 2wd first. but im still going to work on this here and there as well.

[Hart_Rod]

Any updates?????

[ibad57]

im working on shorter one myself

[rancid]

no, the last thing i did was cover up the whole project for winter after dropping in the powerstoke package. so i can focus on the 2wd shorty 67, trying to get the frame done so i can powdercoat it and get the twin turbo propane 468 in and finaly have my dream truck. then i will get to the crewcab. hers the last pics of the stroke resing in the 72 frame.

[texanidiot25]

Looks awesome so far, these things look great as crew cabs. Ill have to keep watch on this.

[Hart_Rod]

Any updates on any these projects? Just curious how everyone else is coming on theirs. Here's some updated pictures of mine. My chassis is done and the motor and tranny are installed. I'm just need to collect the rest of the body parts and then put everything together.

[Wasted Income]

I am WAY jealous of you guys!! I'd kill to have a '67 crewcab shortbed with Duarmax/Allison

[Rokcrln]

Anything!

[toomanytoyz]

ttt................

Any Progress on the Build???

Thanks, Rick

[72BlckButy]

Gotta love a crew! Any updates???