09-28-2008, 09:47 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: TN
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bed floor question
I know some of you probably have steel bed floors rather than wood. I bought a set of pine wood pieces for my 57 short step side, sanded, and then brushed on a blue 2-part epoxy paint from POR. [pictures to follow]. BUT now, like with so many of my projects i have changed my mind. I was gonna buy a newer (used) second truck for a work truck but decided to use my 57 and save the money another truck would cost. So I want to use a steel bed floor.
I am so long winded! Sorry. How do you attach a steel bed floor and not have the bottom edges of the rear fender and the step drop below the rocker and front fender lines due to the 3/4 inch thick wood not being there? Use spacers? What gauge steel do you use for the floor and do you have to add extra braces under the floor to prevent sagging from loads over time? Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:54 AM. Reason: no for sale without subscribing |
09-28-2008, 10:28 PM | #2 |
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Location: Cali.
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Re: bed floor question
I've yet to add a floor to my truck, however, I've seen a few trucks with the steel floors and I've always looked under them. They all had wood floors under the steel. All the ones I've seen were show trucks with diamond plate steel. If you planned on doing it without the wood I guess you could measure where the stock bolt holes go and weld studs to the steel and use spacers/bolts to even it out. Or weld your braces to the steel, then mount them to your frame. I'm sorry I'm not a big help, Just try'n.
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09-28-2008, 11:23 PM | #3 |
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Location: Sutherlin Oregon
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Re: bed floor question
I used plywood and pollished aluminum diamond plate. It looks great, and if I was to haul something ugly I would drop in a rubber bed mat.
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09-29-2008, 02:01 PM | #4 |
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Location: Idaho
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Re: bed floor question
I'm going to use marine plywood with steel sheet bonded to each side. Bottom gets undercoated, top will get Rhino type coating as will inside of bed sides, front and tailgate. After Rhino I will add stainless bedrails. I plan on using it to haul stuff so wood, while looking nice, will not hold up and I don't want to worry about it.
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10-03-2008, 05:22 PM | #5 |
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Re: bed floor question
edited
Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:55 AM. |
10-03-2008, 05:24 PM | #6 |
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Re: bed floor question
edited
Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:56 AM. |
10-04-2008, 01:58 PM | #7 |
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Location: Socal Mtns
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Re: bed floor question
construction adhesive would work, but i would be more inclined to use a epoxy adhesive for a stronger bond, since the epoxy based stuff will bond to both wood and metals. I would also do a silicone bead around the edge after bonding and then would seal the wood. JMO
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57 3100 1/2 ton (project) 05 Harley FLHRI (Retro) 01 Ranger Edge (Reliable) 86 Ranger 4x4 (Snow Beast) 06 Honda CR-V (Wifes Ride) |
10-04-2008, 03:42 PM | #8 |
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Re: bed floor question
edited
Last edited by Fred T; 10-06-2008 at 01:56 AM. |
10-04-2008, 04:49 PM | #9 |
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Location: Idaho
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Re: bed floor question
I am going to use an industrial contact type cement. Construction type caulk may not let the metal flatten out and have raised areas unless you can trowel it out evenly. With contact type you don't have to worry about it flashing or drying before you get the metal on. Same process a doing laminate counter tops.
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