Track bar length

[68 C-10 KID]

I have seen a few different lengths of track bars. The factory axle to frame and the trailing arm to frame.

Does the longer track bar add benefit to the launch?
I did notice it made the angel a little less drastic.

Thanks guys you have been great.

[68 C-10 KID]

Originally Posted by 68 C-10 KID

I have seen a few different lengths of track bars. The factory axle to frame and the trailing arm to frame.

Does the longer track bar add benefit to the launch?
I did notice it made the angel a little less drastic.

Thanks guys you have been great.

20 gal RCI w/ sending unit.

[djracer]

The longer the better.

[Super73]

Longer is better as DJ Said.. A shorter bar will shift the rear side to side more under a bump simply due to the arc.

[djracer]

Super do you think a wishbone would help a trailing arm truck like ours? I would think it would eliminate any side to side movement and possibly help some. I want to upgrade my anti roll and had thought about a wishbone.

[68 C-10 KID]

Dang you guys are good. You both must have been doing this for a while now.
Should a guy make his own or should I buy the ece long track bar kit?

[djracer]

A kit is fine just try to mount it where its as parallel as possible. Make sure the housing mounting bracket is tall enough for your application

[phipp13]

Heres one for ya. i'm running 48" long ladderbars as dj knows. i believe your asking about panhard bars. my track locator will run diagonal from the front left ladderbar to the right rear paralell to the ground as apposed to a panhard bar. got my 3/4 heimjoints comming. imho track locator bars are easier to adj and are tight when it comes to latteral movement, also a track loactor bar is un-affected by suspension movement

[ripdog28]

Forget that panhard bar. get a watts link. so much better for keeping your axle centered. Here is an article on the one i have http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/05...all/index.html

Had it laying around for a few years and just got to installing it.

[djracer]

Originally Posted by phipp13

Heres one for ya. i'm running 48" long ladderbars as dj knows. i believe your asking about panhard bars. my track locator will run diagonal from the front left ladderbar to the right rear paralell to the ground as apposed to a panhard bar. got my 3/4 heimjoints comming. imho track locator bars are easier to adj and are tight when it comes to latteral movement, also a track loactor bar is un-affected by suspension movement

A track locator is fine for the track but not recommended for the street. Atleast that's what S&W Race Cars told me recently.


Rip dog that's a nice looking watts link. I recently put a watts link on a buddies truck when we bagged it.

[watahyahknow]

the trailerarmsetup that are normaly under the style of trucks youre running is pretty good , from wat i have read dj's truck have run this setup for a while .
the watts link is a good idea

[Super73]

DJ,
Not sure I understand what you mean. Can you explain a little on where your connecting points would be? Would you retain the factory arms and PHB?



68 C-10,
As far as the PHB, try to keep it parallel as DJ said and also try to keep it along the same height as axle centerline.



Phipp,
Problem with a diagnal link is they can cause binding on the street under decent bump. For instance going over a speed bump.



Rip,
Watts links are definately nice, but, they weigh more than a PHB and take up more room.

[watahyahknow]

hotrods to hell sells complete setups that are stronger than the originals but they charge an arm and a leg for it http://www.hotrodstohell.net/

[Super73]

DJ,

Is this kind of what you are thinking? If so, I could see binding issues under bump.





Or would you turn the arms 90*?

Or am I way off base.

[djracer]

This is what I'm talking about. It would only replace the panhard bar.

http://www.quartermax.com/details.ph...hTerm=wishbone

[Super73]

I'm assuming the single connecting point would be on a cross member in front of the rear?

Under single tire bump, the center link (front link) might see some inherant stress with load from both the side and front. Even with a heim in it. As one tire goes up, it is effectively changing the length of the control arms due to the angle and no longer are your passanger and driver side LCA's equal in length. When this happens, I would think the front joint would naturaly want to follow that arc. It might end up binding you up.

Assuming your LCA's are level, if your passanger tire gets a bump, as it goes up, that LCA in theory will become shorter than the driver side. When this happens, the front link would want to rotate or shift to the driver side and move forward.

But, you do have a rather large antiroll bar in the back right now. Perhaps it wouldn't see much load as the antiroll bar would keep things in check by forcing the other side to follow the tire under bump.

With your truck being a track only truck, I think it would be a lot less of an issue than a street driven truck.

One other thing to think about here is you would most likely be putting more weight in to the truck with that set up.

Really hard to say if it would help, hurt or do nothing in the situation with out building a small model. But there are a few things to take in to consideration.

[Super73]

Actually DJ, there is even more to it after putting a few more minutes of thought in to it.

I think you would bind the suspension real bad unless you made the rearend float on the existing LCA's or make you front mount float.

With a 4-link or 3-link, there pinion will physically roatate up or down based on the arc the arms have under compression/expansion. With the rear being hard mounted to the LCA's currently, the pinion follows the arc of the LCA's currently. It stays constant with the mounting pad on the LCA's so to speak. Under compression or squat of the rear the pinion is going to angle down slightly and expansion it will angle up slightly due to the natural arc of the control arm. If memory serves I figured it to be about 1* for every inch.

The next thing here, as the rear goes up or down in a bump (even a speed bump and staying equal in lenth to each other), your LCA's are changing length right? Technically your wheelsbase changes right now as you hit a bump. Well, weld another connecting point on the top of the rear and your rearend can no longer move forwards or backwards based on the arc of the existing LCA's.

With out building a model and actually checking it out, I would be very hesitant on doing it.

[watahyahknow]

i've seen the wisbone type centering before they used a slip joint in the centerpiece so it could lengthen and twist
it was basicly a pipe inside a pipe with a helmjoint on it , they used it as the top of a 3 link setup though , as long as it cant move left to right it should be ok

[phipp13]

ldon't need any binding issues looks like i'll be runnin a phb

[djracer]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

i've seen the wisbone type centering before they used a slip joint in the centerpiece so it could lengthen and twist
it was basicly a pipe inside a pipe with a helmjoint on it , they used it as the top of a 3 link setup though , as long as it cant move left to right it should be ok

I think you are correct. I know most pro mods use a wish bone.

[68 C-10 KID]

Wow you guys know a dump truck load about chassis stuff. I know nothing about it.
All I know is I leave cars at the tree when I launch LOL.
This is what my set up is. 4" rear spring w/ 3/4" block, adj PHBar. new 1 1/8" swaybar, Rs9000's on all 4 corners. 20 gal fuel cell were the old spare used to be. My bar mounts to DRVR side frame and top right of my rear pumpkin. So its way short.

Promod is my fav. They R so much cooler in person.

[ripdog28]

I believe RS9000's are off road/lifted shocks.

[68 C-10 KID]

Originally Posted by ripdog28

I believe RS9000's are off road/lifted shocks.

Yes they were originally built for Off road. I talked to John Calvert from cal tracs. That's what they use for the rear of most apps.

I do a lot of street driving & racing. So a 9 way adjustable shock on all 4 corners was a good Idea for my use. I'm sure the valving in the front isn't the best for my 60's but I sure can set my truck up for any street or long rod runs.

[Super73]

68 C-10,

I'm actually switching to RX9000's in the front since my CE 3-ways were not cutting it with length and in the 70-30 setting. Still too much stored energy.

They are a great shock for a proce sensitive single adjustable shock.



DJ,

The promads you see using the wishbone, what are they using? Floating leafs, coils with a ladder bar or 4-link?

Like watahyahnow said, if the front can slide, you would most likely be ok.

[68 C-10 KID]

Well good to know I'm not up side down. I can pick up that longer panhard bar for 114$. I'll get it coming.

My cousin runs a top sportsman door car.
I noticed that he runs a 4 link with the wish bone that slides and also a anti roll set up, and running electric koni shocks.