Starter woes...

[JCampbell]

’77 C30-454

Here’s the issue:

I go to start the truck a few weeks back and it turned over and started fine, but when I let go of the key, it kept turning over. It only did it for a few seconds.

Flash forward to last week. Went to start the truck and the same scenario happened only this time, the starter wouldn’t stop turning. I even pulled the key out of the ignition. The only way to get it to stop was to disconnect the battery.

Figured the contacts in the starter arc’d due to a low battery or something of the like. I replaced the starter and the battery, went to fire it up, and the same thing happened. Brand new starter kept turning over even after the engine fired.

I have an idea what the problem is, but I wanted to throw it out there to see if anyone else has had any experience with this sort of thing.

[Jonboy]

Sounds like an ignition switch.

[smashingchuck]

Stupid question, but you didn't say weather or not the solenoid got replaced at the same time?

[JCampbell]

Yeah...solenoid was replaced w/ the starter.

[CLASSICPARTSDEPOTINC]

I would agree with Jonboy check the ignition switch and rod at the bottom of the column.

[ImportThis]

there are 2 things that will make a starter stay engaged,
1. low voltage, be it low battery, or corroded cables/bad connections
or
2. key switch/ignition switch sticking, unless you have a boost(ford) solenoid somewhere under the hood that may be sticking

[JCampbell]

I figured it was the ignition switch. Just looking for a confirmation.

Now...how do I get to the sucker?

[Orange77]

you gotta drop the column. first you have to take off the steering wheel. the switch is mounted with small screws on top of the column. to get to it you need to remove the bottom dash area on the drivers side then you should see 4 bolts i believe. take those out and that should be it. it will be a tight fit if its like my 77 c10 so once you get the switch off remember how you took it off otherwise youll be there for a while. once you disconnect the plugs with all the wires goin to the old one put em on the new one and test the new switch by movin it with a small screw driver to the start position this way you can make sure its good and see if that even fixes your problem. then reverse the process to get it back together. should take about an hour or so

[JCampbell]

Negatory...switch and the actuator rod are A-okay.

I replaced the switch just to be on the safe side…then got all pissed for about a half hour when I tried to put the new switch in backwards ( I swore that was the way it came out *lol*)

Looks like the only thing now is the wiring between the switch and the starter. I’ll pull it tonight and have a look.

[old Rusty C10]

clean the contacts on the harness at the bottom of the column also the key switch on top of the column... is that working properly and moving the rod as its suppoused to?

[JCampbell]

Yeah, did that. No go.

Anybody have a wiring diagram for the starting system? This is really getting to me.

One other note of interest...the 'start' lead is constantly hot. I've already replaced the ignition switch. Is there a relay that I'm missing.

I've also been told to see if the neutral safety switch is going to ground.

If anyone has any insight, I'd appreciate it. I'm about to set this sucker ablaze.

[powerdriver 1958]

If the start lead has power all the time you can start there,Start wire should be hot only when you have the key in the start position.Does this have alarm or remote start set up?.........also some of the older big block had a relay that sometimes was added aftermarket to help hot starts(Looks like or is a ford starter relay)

[fixit-p]

This could also be a mechanical issue if the starter pinion remains engaged with the flywheel. Here's a similar post http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=332177

[JCampbell]

No alarm/remote start system.

As far as I can tell, there's no "boost"(Ford) solenoid.

The more I think about it, the more I'm beginning to suspect a bad neutral safety switch. It would make sense. I've already replaced the starter/solenoid and ignition switch, and the n.s.s. seems to be the last stop for the start lead on it's way to the starter.

I guess I'll just keep replacing parts until I find it.

[JCampbell]

Not the pinon clearance. I already experiemented with several shims. In fact, I pulled the starter off the block, grounded it to the frame and cranked it and the pinion still wouldn't retract.

[fixit-p]

The NSS is cold when the key returns to the run pos. Have you tried taking the start circuit out of the picture by disconnecting the the wire at the "S" terminal and jump it to the batt pos post or if you have on a remote start sw it would be even better that way once you disconnect the jumper wire from tha batt and if there is still voltage present at the wire it has to be coming from the starter.

[JCampbell]

I haven't jumped the terminals, but I do know that the 'start' lead is hot...all the time. Key on, start, run, acc, etc. I read that if the n.s.s. goes to ground, that could be the culprit.

$15 at Napa, they have one in stock. I'll swap it out tonight and if it doesn't work, I'll take it back.

[fixit-p]

If the NSS went to ground it can't pull positive voltage from a ground short, here's a schematic......Okay if the switch is shorted internally not to ground but to the back up light feed it would be hot as soon as you turn on the key on. A quick test would be to simply pull the Dk Blue wire from the reverse side of the NSS.