Any 12 sec daily drivers

[CB24]

I know these trucks are heavy and to reach 12 sec territory is going to require a lot of power.

Is there anyone running in the 12 sec range with there daily driven truck?

If so whats your set up?

[chevysittinsidewayz]

68 lwb with 6-71 on special vette lt1(92). switched from small chamber aluminum heads to big chamber iron heads and went faster, msd stuff out the ass, 12 lbs of bost and 3.73 with drag radials. fastest 12.08 @ 107 so far. its been down since april of 08 but almost done with it(pretty much rebuilt and modified everything) now has same block .030 over, stock crank and rods(flash ground), balanced, TRW forged flat tops, RHS aluminum 72cc heads(with some work by me), weiand blower manifold( built an adapter plate that bolted to torker manifold before but the bolts kept backin out so i needed a better way to fasten the blower down; i had 6 broken pistons when i tore it down and a smoked 350 trans that was built to the nuts about 10 years ago. now has a 400trans with all the good stuff. should be a good 11 sec ride now and yes it will be my daily driver again. missed 1st place for the season by 3 pts to my best friend in his first year racing, but still got to go to nationals in Medford Oregon back in 06. can't wait to get her on the streets again. also got a set of vette wheels for $100 from local swap meet with some 2.5" wide adapters off ebay(actually really nice) but i want them wider...(14" or so hehe)
here she is:http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=2794186

[CB24]

Nice truck!

Do you think 12 sec would be possible all motor and still be daily driven?

[Marv D]

Not so much a 'daily' driver but it's licensed, registered and insured and get's plenty of street time.

66 SWB, 3380 pounds, N/A pump gas 385 (4.040" x 3.75) w/ GM 5.7" rods, SRP flat tops, AFR rr210's flat milled to 70cc, SuperVictor intake, Prosystems 860cfm carb, Crane hydraulic roller (236 / 242@ 0.050, .56 / .58 lift) , 1-3/4" SUpercomps to 3" series 40's and 3" exhaust.,Midwest 4800 stall 9.5" convertor, Hughes TH350 w/ sprotsman brake, 9" with Dyneer locker, 5.43 gears, 33x22.50-15 Hoosier QT-pro's. Shift at 6000 it crosses at 6400. (hydraulic roller motors dont really like rpm's)

best of 12.03 @ 108

[CB24]

Looks like you answered my question at the same time I was asking it Marv D

Does auto over manual tranny make a difference? I'm planning on running a TKO 600 tranny.

I'm thinking big block but need to do more research before I settle on that choice. I know they add a lot of weight to the front end.

[Marv D]

All the time your foot is on the clutch and your shifting gears,,, the truck is not pulling. It's lost ET. Multiply it time 3,4 or 5 gear changes.

The deep 1st and 2nd gear ratio is going to be counterproductive to a traction limited chassis to begin with. If this was a TRACK ONLY machine, I'd say go auto. But it's a driver. So build it the way you want to drive it.

[americanmusc1e]

my truck used to do 12seconds stock..................................................OK, that was 0-60

[383 Stroker]

Not a daily driver, but will run 12's...

[Super73]

Originally Posted by Marv D

(236 / 242@ 0.050, .56 / .58 lift)

Shift at 6000 it crosses at 6400. (hydraulic roller motors dont really like rpm's)

I wouldn't say they don't like RPM's.. Mine has no issue pulling to 7,400.. With the intake swap I bet it will like 7,600 better unless I retad the cam a bit.

If my motor had a smaller cam in it, I'd say it would be fairly easy to daily drive for most people and be solid in the 12's. But I'll live with mid 11's (hopefully that's what it will run next time out) and a little less DD. It would not be a problem IMO DD'ing it with the over drive ect, but that's me.

[Marv D]

In a standard Gen II 23° sbc head???

Look through the Comp, Crower or Lunati hydraulic rollers for the Gen II motors and find me one that lists anything over 6500 for effective rpm range. With all respect intended, Your LS1 is a very different animal.

The 2.08 stainless intakes, Crane Gold 1.5 roller rockers and SpeedPro roller lifters,, are heavy. EVEN WITH the Hydra-rev kit doesn't like anyting over 6500 for beans, I can slow the truck down a tenth and a half by shifting at 6400 and it will drop over 2 tenths with a 6600 shift.

[Super73]

Sorry Marv, I took your comment as a general rule for all hyd lifters. Pair those lifters with a 1.94 valve head or 2.02 valve head and the right valves/valve springs and it might be different. To your point valvetrain dynamics is what will dictate the RPM the hyd lifter will work at.

We've played with a buddy's 1.94 valve head, right cam and springs and it works best at 6,800 on a hyd roller.

[68 C-10 KID]

'68 LWB street driven all summer long and to the coast to car shows.
Truck has ran as fast as a 12.0 12.2's all day long. 3500 stall, th400 w/ transbrake. 4:10 with a 28" tall tire. The Motor dynoed at just over 600HP Isky solid roller 106.5 640 lift @ 260 duration. average free way MPG 10.

[swb85]

'85 swb: 383sbc, vortec heads, 10.4:1 compression, 232/238 .544/.555 110lsa hyd roller cam, rpm air gap, 750cfm carb, 1 5/8" longtubes, M21 muncie 4spd, 3.42 rear, 28" tire. Shift at 6000rpm.

Dunno if it's in the 12's but if put a tire on it and hooked it'd be pretty close......I usually beat stock LS1 fbody's by about 1.5-2 truck lengths on the street. Drive it every day of the week all year round. Averages 15-16mpg too.

[CB24]

Originally Posted by swb85

'85 swb: 383sbc, vortec heads, 10.4:1 compression, 232/238 .544/.555 110lsa hyd roller cam, rpm air gap, 750cfm carb, 1 5/8" longtubes, M21 muncie 4spd, 3.42 rear, 28" tire. Shift at 6000rpm.

Dunno if it's in the 12's but if put a tire on it and hooked it'd be pretty close......I usually beat stock LS1 fbody's by about 1.5-2 truck lengths on the street. Drive it every day of the week all year round. Averages 15-16mpg too.

Nice! So there is hope with a manual trans!

Honestly I just want a fast truck & to me 12 sec is fast! I'm sure 13's would be fine too. My DD right now is a scion xb auto. If its not the slowest car on the road I'm betting its damn close.

[swb85]

Originally Posted by CB24

Nice! So there is hope with a manual trans!

Kinda.....it's really hard to get my truck to hook with any kind of radial street tire. Leaving very much above idle blows the tires away. Usually have to go from a 15-20mph roll and ease into the throttle. It'd really scoot with some et streets, but that's when parts start breaking (I'm on my 3rd muncie already).

[CB24]

Originally Posted by swb85

Kinda.....it's really hard to get my truck to hook with any kind of radial street tire. Leaving very much above idle blows the tires away. Usually have to go from a 15-20mph roll and ease into the throttle. It'd really scoot with some et streets, but that's when parts start breaking (I'm on my 3rd muncie already).

Here's a dumb question, is there any tire that comes in a 275/50r17 that has any hope of hooking up at all or are the et street's my only option?

[BossHogg69]

I can list the setup that's sitting in my garage, I'm hoping it will dip into the 12's also, maybe I can get some insight as well . Currently I'm running a nearly stock .040 over 454 with a small cam, holley carb and a TKO-500 trans with a 12 bolt and 3.73's. I have all the following parts ready to go to reach my goal:

Holley 870 Avenger carb
E'Brock RPM-O air gap intake
E'Brock RPM-O aluminum heads, 2.25" intake/1.89" valves, 290cc runners
Crane aluminum roller rockers, Crower valvesprings, Comp 1 pc. 3/8" pushrods
Comp X4 278H cam, 234/244 duration @ .050", .564/.575 lift, 111* lsa
Hedman Ceramic Coated long tube headers

I am shooting for 10:1 compression, and plan to run SRP domed pistons (made to match the "semi-closed 110cc EB chambers). I still have to get the motor out to have the block machined and set up to get all this up and running. any thoughts on this setup would be appreciated.

[Blue Gas]

I'll be plumb tickled if I get into the 12's, but I dont want to set my expectations too high. I've been saving up since this time last year to build a 454 for my 85. I finally got it in the truck last weekend and broke in. Plans are to get the front clip back on this weekend and test drive. Here are some basic specs on the truck:

.030 over 454, 9.6:1
Patriot Aluminum Heads
Comp Gold roller rockers, comp 3/8 pushrods
Comp hyd. flat tappet cam 236 @ .050, .556 lift
Edelbrock Air Gap Intake
Holley 750 (upgrade to quick fuel 780 after my wallet recovers)
Ceramic headers
TH350 trans with shift kit & 2400 stall
12 bolt, 3.42 gears, auburn lsd

If all goes well it's going to the track next friday the 21st. I'm only going to run it with my street tires until I can get a th400 trans, a good driveshaft and some cal-tracs on it. I'm hoping it will run a high 13 with street tires.

[Wild83C10]

Originally Posted by Marv D

All the time your foot is on the clutch and your shifting gears,,, the truck is not pulling. It's lost ET. Multiply it time 3,4 or 5 gear changes.

The deep 1st and 2nd gear ratio is going to be counterproductive to a traction limited chassis to begin with. If this was a TRACK ONLY machine, I'd say go auto. But it's a driver. So build it the way you want to drive it.

So you lose no ET with an auto? What about converter slip?

Yes dead hooking a manual is very difficult and if you dead hook you have a higher probability of breaking something. Not that you want to DD with a pro-shifted or faceplated tranny but that would help cut down ETs.

I must say: real cars/trucks have three pedals.

[Super73]

Wild83,

I can agree with you to a point about real cars/truck having 3 pedals. I LOVE banging gears. It is much more fun than just clicking the shifter up to the next gear. BUT, for a street/track application, you can not get more consistant than a well set up auto.

If your ok with running a class and being unconsistant in it, great. Or if you just like to runn your buddies and don't care if you win 1 out of 3 because your vehicle is iconsistant, great. I'll take consistancy for drag racing and keep the 3 pedals in the road race car

[Wild83C10]

Super,
Can't argue much with you there. Although there are plenty of guys running and winning in their class with 3 pedals. Wasn't trying to argue which was better either, just thought MarvD's statement was a bit one-sided. I know Marv knows his stuff though .
Being consistant with a stick definitely takes more practice, but if you are good you have the advantage.

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[crossy]

Originally Posted by Marv D

All the time your foot is on the clutch and your shifting gears,,, the truck is not pulling. It's lost ET. Multiply it time 3,4 or 5 gear changes.

The deep 1st and 2nd gear ratio is going to be counterproductive to a traction limited chassis to begin with. If this was a TRACK ONLY machine, I'd say go auto. But it's a driver. So build it the way you want to drive it.

But if you learn to powershift correctly---- you will more than make up for the minute' losses between gears with an unbeatable top end pull because there is no converter eating power or slipping.

for the books. i read a long time ago to build your engine for torque not RPM if you plan to run 110 MPH or less. so i did. my truck, a laoded 81 SWB, silverado. had almost gotten into the 12's (13.2 with no tuning),with a nothing 350, 4.10's and Th-400 ,w/3000 stall. i wouldn't have thought twice about driving it on the street.

the RWHP was only 275, but 410 Tq.

110 MPH will get you DEEP 12's

[Super73]

Originally Posted by crossy

there is no converter eating power or slipping.


110 MPH will get you DEEP 12's

Some autos do have a lock up. I think it's pretty close as far as efficiantcy when locked.

I've gone 12.0x with a 110mph trap speed.

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by CB24

Here's a dumb question, is there any tire that comes in a 275/50r17 that has any hope of hooking up at all or are the et street's my only option?

Like a 26x9 slick or something to that effect.

[CB24]

Originally Posted by Jim_PA

Like a 26x9 slick or something to that effect.

Thanks jim. So in other words nothing DOT approved.