The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1960 - 1966 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-24-2009, 08:29 PM   #1
BMSJaX
Registered User
 
BMSJaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
Rear lowering spring question

Alright I traded some tool over the weekend for a stock seat and some 3" rear lowering springs. Now I got them in and only noticed about a 1" drop... looked in LMC at the stock stance which says 34" from ground to top of fender well, I measured mine at 28 3/4 with 31" tires. So did I possible already had a 2" drop in? Can anyone measure the un-sprung height of a stock spring? I'm so confused....
__________________
1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann
H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless
BMSJaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2009, 10:57 PM   #2
MXmaniac
Registered User
 
MXmaniac's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 356
Re: Rear lowering spring question

I bet your stock springs were sagging some after 45 years. Its common to not notice as much difference as you'd expect when you're replacing the stocks springs with drop springs.
__________________
Andrew
'69 C-20(292, 4-speed) Retired Daily Driver
'64 C-10(250, 3-speed) Fixerupper
'97 F*rd Mustang GT(4.6L, 5-speed) Daily Driver
If I only wanted two pedals I'd have bought a bicycle.
MXmaniac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2009, 11:01 PM   #3
terd ferguson
Registered User
 
terd ferguson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 531
Re: Rear lowering spring question

I think the LMC catalog shows stock height from the ground to the center of the rear fender should be 34". MXmaniac is right on. Your springs were probably already sagging 2" from the weight of hauling who knows what over the last half century.

So you didn't get as much drop as you wanted, right? You can add some lowering blocks to get a little more. It's cheap, easy, and as long as you don't go more than 3", you shouldn't have any clearance issues.
__________________
"I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am." - Homer J. Simpson

1955 2nd Series Chevy "King Of Trucks"
terd ferguson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2009, 11:21 PM   #4
BMSJaX
Registered User
 
BMSJaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
Re: Rear lowering spring question

I was lookin at them and the top half of the coils are closer together then the bottom half, dont think it came like that so it either sagged or maybe the original owner who customized it first gave it an old school drop by heating the coils and compressing them... heard of that being done back in the day before drop kits were readily available. I only think this because the front springs have been cut to achieve a drop so it would make sense once I think about it.

And no i didn't get the drop I thought I would but I traded for some unused tools so no real loss, pretty much got them just to see, and I didnt mind the height before so I'll keep it as is and maybe I'll have a better ride feel with unmodified/sagged springs(taking the bright side)
__________________
1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann
H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless
BMSJaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2009, 11:24 PM   #5
BMSJaX
Registered User
 
BMSJaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
Re: Rear lowering spring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by terd ferguson View Post
I think the LMC catalog shows stock height from the ground to the center of the rear fender should be 34". MXmaniac is right on. Your springs were probably already sagging 2" from the weight of hauling who knows what over the last half century.

So you didn't get as much drop as you wanted, right? You can add some lowering blocks to get a little more. It's cheap, easy, and as long as you don't go more than 3", you shouldn't have any clearance issues.
What are these lowering blocks? I've heard of lift blocks... I cant picture how adding a block would lower me more...
__________________
1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann
H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless
BMSJaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2009, 11:35 PM   #6
terd ferguson
Registered User
 
terd ferguson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 531
Re: Rear lowering spring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMSJaX View Post
What are these lowering blocks? I've heard of lift blocks... I cant picture how adding a block would lower me more...
It's the exact same principal as lift blocks but in reverse. With lift blocks, you are making the axle closer to the ground (the axle is lower in relation to the vehicle's body), effectively lifting the vehicle. My basic description is that you put blocks between the rear trailing arms and the axle and this in turn pushes the axle further up in the wheel well effectively lowering the rear. It works in the same way as using lowering springs, the springs are shorter, "raising" the rear axle higher in the wheel well.

Another way to explain it is lift blocks will push the axle away from the frame/body while lowering blocks will push the axle closer to the frame/body. They've been doing it with blocks and mini trucks for years and years.
__________________
"I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am." - Homer J. Simpson

1955 2nd Series Chevy "King Of Trucks"

Last edited by terd ferguson; 08-24-2009 at 11:40 PM.
terd ferguson is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2009, 11:39 PM   #7
BMSJaX
Registered User
 
BMSJaX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trabuco Canyon, CA
Posts: 173
Re: Rear lowering spring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by terd ferguson View Post
It's the exact same principal as lift blocks but in reverse. My basic description is that you put blocks between the trailing arm and the axle and this in turn pushes the axle further up in the wheel well effectively lowering the rear. It works in the same way as using lowering springs, the springs are shorter "raising" the rear axle higher in the wheel well.
AH! I get it! Only problem is that my trailing arms have been welded to my axle... guess the original owner thought it was a race truck... Guess i'll be gettin springs if I want to go any lower.
__________________
1964 Chevy C10 a.k.a. Julie Ann
H.E.I. cause its better to be pointless
BMSJaX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2009, 11:43 PM   #8
terd ferguson
Registered User
 
terd ferguson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 531
Re: Rear lowering spring question

Quote:
Originally Posted by BMSJaX View Post
AH! I get it! Only problem is that my trailing arms have been welded to my axle... guess the original owner thought it was a race truck... Guess i'll be gettin springs if I want to go any lower.
Some things people do to these trucks over the years just don't make sense. It's almost funny the amount of redneckery (and I'm a redneck, lol) that gets passed off as "fixing something".
__________________
"I never apologize. I'm sorry, but that's just the way I am." - Homer J. Simpson

1955 2nd Series Chevy "King Of Trucks"
terd ferguson is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:00 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com