Anti-sieze on ball joints and tie-rods?

[stealthy '69]

Is it a good idea or a bad idea to put anti-seize on the tapper of the ball joints and tie-rods? I would think this would help in the future with any dis-assembly. But on the other note I've herd not to because it will "pull the tapers in tighter, making it near impossible to separate later." Let me know what you think.

[lolife99]

I've heard both sides of this arguement. Some say the taper needs to be dry in order to grip well enough.
But I know for a fact that a "very light" coat of never-seize (a brand of anti-seize lubricant) WILL allow the ball joints to come apart much easier,... at a later date.
I use never-seize on just about all my suspension bolted connections.
(ball joints, tie rods, pitman arm, idler arm, leaf spring bolts and bushing sleeves, etc.)

[stealthy '69]

That's what I was thinking. We use it at work since we work in a constantly wet environment. And it does work great. I just wasn't sure on tapered areas. Quick question. On my 71 front conversion, do I need to get a 71 idle arm to go with the 71 center link or will the stock 69 arm work?

[lolife99]

I believe they are the same.
(Check at the parts store to verify this)
They don't cost that much,... I would purchase a new one to go with the rest of your new suspension.

[stealthy '69]

good idea

[chevy_mike]

My understanding is the tapered areas are to be kept dry. The idea is that they are to lock into the tapers so the stud part of the ball joint doesn't rotate in the tapered area of the part it's attaching to (i.e. steering arm, center link, etc.).

You definitely do not want those to rotate as they will wollow out the taper hole and the part will be toast.

My .02 worth.

[bubba327]

Originally Posted by stealthy '69

That's what I was thinking. We use it at work since we work in a constantly wet environment. And it does work great. I just wasn't sure on tapered areas. Quick question. On my 71 front conversion, do I need to get a 71 idle arm to go with the 71 center link or will the stock 69 arm work?

When I changed out my 64 to a 71, I used the 71 tie rods and center link and re-drilled the frame for the 71 Idler arm . There is a size difference in the threads of the tie rods for the 64 and 71 . 71 is also a heaver shaft. There is a coupler you can buy to adapt inner and outer tie rods, but it was easier for me to just use 71 from spindle to spindle so I can remember in the future when needing parts. I went with a 71 power steering gearbox also.
Yes-- I use anti-sieze on tie rods and ball joints with no problems. I use lock-tite on other bolts which do not want to come apart with vibration. I used Ny-lock nuts on the crossmember

[70duramax]

I would steer away from the anti-sieze in this situation for the simple fact that you want it to draw tight, its your steering componets, not something you want to come apart easy. as far as tierods and balljoints i concur with them wallowing out the holes and spinning if used. Oems don't use it so i wouldn't either. the proper tools and a little wd-40 makes them come apart just as they were designed to. just my experience talking no harm intended! goodluck with your project

[cparman]

I am in with Chevy Mike, and 70 duramax. I want my tapers dry and tight. If I were to use anti sieze, it would be on the threads of the tie rod ends to help the alignment guy. ME! I think the tapers should be tight to allow the tie rod/ball joint to rotate inside of the end, not outside of the end.

[Shane]

Never-seize is designed for threaded connections ... not taper or press fit connections.

Think of it's application in the same way you would Loc-Tite, but for the opposite reason.

[stealthy '69]

Thanks every one for the input. I found out today that anti-sieze on tapered parts is a bad idea. We were always told at work not to do, but no one could answer why. I was told, " Just don't do it." Well today (last night, I work over nights) while a piece of equipment was running It just stopped. The second shift guy was messing with it for 2 hours by the time I got to work. He told me what happened and the first thing I asked him was if he check the main drive chain. "yea it's not broke". I look, and say "correct, but there's also no taper lock inside that sprocket." The day before it got replaced and anti-siezed. And today it fell out. about 10 minutes of cleaning it off and 10 to reinstall. Back up and running. So I guess the moral of the story is if some that has worked there 25 years says don't, then don't. Sorry long story for a short point.